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By ResQ91
Hi Guys!
New member and could really use your advice. I would have to believe this has been an issue for others but a search here came up with nothing......? (Probably me not doing search correctly)
I have an 87 Big Bear 350 YFM350FWT
The OEM Mikuni BTM carb is shot and would rather replace than rebuild.
It is no longer made and I have had good luck with NICHE carbs so I ordered a #K-CRB-0006 This was what they said was replacement when ordered. This Carb only uses 1 Throttle cable. The Slide is linked so it uses one. (OEM had 2nd cable coming through top to move slide)
Problem is when I ordered a replacement Cable from NICHE (#C-CBL-0061) the Cable wire is a little short, not allowing Throttle to return all the way down to Idle position. I called NICHE and they are at a loss. Haven't gotten back to me after 2+ weeks.
What would you recommend other than a carb rebuild?
Can I just use 1 of the OEM cables (It is the right length) and snip/disconnect the other that went to top of Carb for Slide?
Or ??
Thanks in advance for any advice you have!!
Dave
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By mehim
Hi everyone.
Let me explain the thread title.
My husband and I are very active in the nudist community, and we have stayed at many and most of the mainstream nudist and clothing optional campgrounds in the USA. We are now approaching our retirement and would like to start a podcast to share those off the road / backwoods / little known camping areas where nudity is allowed. We have purchased a 5th wheel camping trailer with a rear garage for the ATV and now need some good reports on the one to buy.
We are most interested in a side by side unit but would love to get your thoughts.
Feel free to stop by and say Hi and ask anything you would like to better understand what we are looking for in an offroad unit.
Thanks for reading and hope to hear from you.
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By Admin
View File 2006-2011 Honda Rincon TRX 680 FA/FGA service manual
2006-2011 Honda Rincon TRX 680 FA/FGA service manual
Submitter Admin Submitted 04/09/2024 Category Honda ATV
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By Drillbit
Hey all,
I need some input on a problem I'm having with my Kodiak 400 that keeps fouling plugs. First off, I've done a lot of work to this thing, most of it all in good fun. Brake work, cv joints, u joints, carb kit, checked valve lash, compression good, changed all fluids, etc... My problem is it keeps fouling plugs very quickly. I can put a new (manual recommended plug) in and it starts right up, runs great, idles great, picks up good. Doesn't stutter at all. I ride it for 1/2 a mile, it cuts off and won't start back up. I let it sit overnight thinking maybe it got to hot. Try to start it the next day, nothing. Put a new plug in, fires right up, runs great for another 1/2 mile or so, dead. The plugs come out and look carbon fouled with dry black soot on them. I don't know if this is a fuel/air mixture problem or a ignition problem. A couple of things that I noticed is I never need to pull the choke out to start it. Also, when it starts it automatically idles high like an automatic choke would do, then it comes back down to a good idle. Also I noticed that the air/fuel mixture needle valve screw does nothing when I adjust it in or out. I can screw it all the way closed and the motor still runs and idles good. Any advice would be greatly appreciated. I'm almost leaning to a ignition breaking down the plugs??
Thanks!
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By kantrud97
Hello i have a 2005 Bombardier Outlander max xt 400, i recently split the case to fix a oil leak. while in there i took out the oil pump and i cant find the torque specs for the oil pump to go back in, i tend to over tighten everything so im trying to go be the torque specs so i dont break anything.
Thank you in advance
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