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1998 Kawasaki Bayou wiring help


Andrew Baker

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Just hanging. I thought maybe the red recharged the battery. It looks to me like the battery get recharged via the white wire. Is this correct?

 

*EDIT* I see the terminals in one of the diagrams I have. I just missed because in my diagram it is toward the front of the vehicle.

Edited by Andrew Baker
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Well then I'm still without spark. So, I know my pickup coil was bad. I happened to have one from a CN250 (GY6 style) that looked the same so I used it. I'm thinking maybe it just isn't working with that engine. I don't know what else it could be. I'm getting headlight, and indicator lights. My CDI should be good because I pulled one off of a Bayou 250 just one year newer. Same with the rectifier. I'm starting to dislike this ATV.....

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I would start to pull the harness away from the frame and start to check for any cuts or broken wires.  

Then 
Start  checking continuity from one end of a wire in the harness to another. So locate  a brown wire and start checking for another brown wires and check continuity at each spot. 
Do the  same for all wires in the harness to make sure they are not broke.  
Understand or am I not clear? 
 

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Perfectly clear. I'm mostly frustrated because I'm not used to having issues like this lol. I'm no bewbie to wiring at all. I have built several GY6 and CN250 builds and built custom harnesses by hand, as well as build several Honda's for racing and custom built those harnesses as well. So, in theory, this should have been a breeze. 

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Been down this road a few times. I have come across more then a few pain in the asses.  
Now it becomes an obsession figuring this out.  And I want to know what the final result was so let’s see this through for the next member that has this problem.   
Somethings grounding this circuit out or it’s a bad cdi. 
 

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Well, I now have spark! But only pull start. I hooked up my starter relay and tested it. It works, but nothing from the push button. I took it apart and cleaned the contacts. I get no continuity with the button unpressed and continuity when pressed so to me that means the button it good. Could this be a starter circuit relay issue?

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Wow great news, what was the problem? 

Do you have a neutral light when the key is on ? 

Did you jump the solenoid to verify that the starter is working? If not then do so, if it spins great then you can move on to the starter circuit. 
If the starter does not spin then your starter may be bad or at least the brushes inside it.
 

The starter relay circuit is pretty simple. Go to the usual suspect first.  The neutral safety switch! Your bike should have a red and a light green wire coming out of the engine on the left side where the shifter area is right above it.  There is a light green wire, take that wire and disconnect it from the wire going into the engine and put a jumper from a good ground to that green wire on the harness side and see if the starter works with the push button. 
If not then locate the stater circuit relay. It’s in the same area as the starter solenoid round aluminum relay in a black rubber boot holder. There should be four wires on the relay. Two black, one brown and one green. 
Jump the two blacks and see if it works.  If so then it’s one of two things. The brown wire feeding the relay is not getting 12v or the green wire is not getting a ground from the neutral safety switch. 
 

Double check the bike is in neutral before you do any of this. 
Check back and let me know. 
 

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  • 1 month later...
On 11/27/2019 at 6:21 AM, Frank Angerano said:

Wow great news, what was the problem? 

Do you have a neutral light when the key is on ? 

Did you jump the solenoid to verify that the starter is working? If not then do so, if it spins great then you can move on to the starter circuit. 
If the starter does not spin then your starter may be bad or at least the brushes inside it.
 

The starter relay circuit is pretty simple. Go to the usual suspect first.  The neutral safety switch! Your bike should have a red and a light green wire coming out of the engine on the left side where the shifter area is right above it.  There is a light green wire, take that wire and disconnect it from the wire going into the engine and put a jumper from a good ground to that green wire on the harness side and see if the starter works with the push button. 
If not then locate the stater circuit relay. It’s in the same area as the starter solenoid round aluminum relay in a black rubber boot holder. There should be four wires on the relay. Two black, one brown and one green. 
Jump the two blacks and see if it works.  If so then it’s one of two things. The brown wire feeding the relay is not getting 12v or the green wire is not getting a ground from the neutral safety switch. 
 

Double check the bike is in neutral before you do any of this. 
Check back and let me know. 
 

Ok so as you know my starter push button did not work. I spliced a wire from the starter switch to the black wire on the starter relay to bypass the starter circuit relay. This is the only wire that has changed. Now my push button works but I am not getting spark still. I have 2 starter circuit relays and I get no spark with either. What are the chances that they are both bad? They are both used. I just don't know how common it is for these to go bad considering how simple they are. I'm literally to the point of swapping a predator 420 in this thing if I can't figure it out soon. I do get the neutral light by the way. I'm really stumped and frustrated. 

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Here's the deal with the wires on the relay. The start relay has four wires, one light green one brown and two black. The the green is connected to the neutral safety switch.  The brown wire is 12v+ as soon as you put the bike in neutral it grounds the light green wire and the round aluminum relay gets power and closes the contact in the relay making the two black wires connect allowing the starter too work. 
The second relay is just for starting purposes.  Neither should prevent spark from happening.  If you don't have spark then it's something else like a bad stator not starter (Stator coil)  or rectifier etc.  Maybe a bad kill switch or something else. 

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  • 3 weeks later...

Hey, I'll chime in real quick, I just went through the same thing on the same bike.  I have two machines and I could take the CDI from the good bike and put it on the bad bike, no spark, I could take the bad bike's cdi and put it on the good bike and it would run, therefore I thought my CDI was good.  I swapped everything else, including the flywheel, I got it to spark with a flywheel from a newer one but when i ordered the exact same flywheel - no spark.  I finally bought a cheapo chinese CDI from ebay and it now runs.  All I can think is that there is a tolerance stack up where something on that bike is just weak enough that an older cdi unit just won't fire.  Anyway, for what it's worth.., my .02.    Good luck!  

 

I have three of these quads presently and they all run, two have the older electrical system and one is the newer style.  Let me know if you want me to check anything for you.

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  • 2 years later...

There's a service manual on this site. It says that for all the 98-99 models except UK and Europe they use a two wire key switch. The Uk has a three wire switch. The 99-02 models are the same.

Prior to those years they could have two, three, or four wires.. It may be that the four wire one will work, or the three, but you will have some wires spare.. You'd want to check the three wire switch with an ohm meter because it shows one set of contacts as having a resistor in it. The book doesn't show whats inside the four wire switch, it might have a resistor too.

To complicate matters further, when I looked it up online in a parts place it showed it as having four wires... Probably best to rummage around under the dash and check how many wires your one has..

 

 

Edited by Mech
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