Join Today, It's Simple and FREE!
As a member, you can post in our forums, upload your photos and videos, use and contribute to our downloads, create your own member page, add your ATV events, and even start your own ATV club to host your own club forum and gallery. Registration is fast and you can even login with social network accounts to sync your profiles and content.
By Mike Johnson
Does anyone know what the 3rd item is behind the battery on this ATV ? I know 1 is the, solenoid1 is the CDI box, what is the 3rd.
By Daniel Gibson
Working on a bayou 220 that has been ran extremely hard it's whole life. Literally had almost an inch thick dirt/oil covering the motor. Yeah that bad. Surprisingly it runs though. I cleaned the carb and tank multiple times. They're clean enough to eat off of. Readjusted valve lash and set timing. Was about 3 teeth off. It cranks good and runs good only problem is I have to cover the carb intake basically choking the hell out of it for it to start. The com choke works fine. It does this each time I start it regardless of temperature both ambient or motor. Wth? Compression is at 115psi I get 130s if I put a little oil in the piston chamber. Please help. Thanks
My Honda Fourtrax won't start. The starter is kicking the engine over, but it won't start. It sat for about a year while I was living away, so I thought it might have been bad gas. I completely drained the fuel, flushed the fuel lines and filled it with fresh gas. However, still nothing. It started and ran fine the last time I used it. Any suggestions on how to diagnose this? It could be fuel or electrical at this point. Is there an easy way to rule one or the other out? Thanks
By Jeff Comstock
Ok, so I had no spark issues and foundy coil was bad. Bought a caltric coil, put it on and fired right up...for bout 20 minutes then it backfired once and again, no spark. I put it on my buddies 300 and it runs. Checked my cdi the same thing, but still no spark. Now I got my old coil and was ohming it and got reading of .01 on primary and 11.89 from POS to plug ( meter set on 20k ) new coil reads same primary but 12.83. what gives? It tests bad but runs my buddies 300, helllllllpppp
I've never done this before but after reading a few thread I decided to check my valves for the first time and to my surprise it was much easier than I thought.
My bike is a 2005 Sp 500 HO.
I first pulled the seat and the right side panel off, and that's it! It wasn't too bad to get at.
Next I pulled the spark plug out and removed both the head cover ( 8-8mm bolts)
then the side cam cover (5-8mm bolts).
Also remove the plug in the recoil cover (14mm bolt) to see the timming marks.
Next I turned the engine over with the pull cord untill it was at TDC of the compression stroke.
The best was to tell that your at TDC of the compression stroke is to rotate the engine until the
timing marks are parallel to rocker cover gasket surface.
The cam sprocket locating pin will be facing upward directly in line with the crankshaft to camshaft center line.
Now fine adjust by looking into the timing hole in the recoil cover and line up the upside down "T" on
the flywheel into the center of the hole.
Now using a feeler gauge, slide the .006" (.15mm)blade between the top of the valve and the bottom of the adjuster and adjust accordingly
To adjust, Loosen the locknut (10mm) and check clearance with a feeler guage. Clearance should be .006" (.15mm) for both, intake and exhaust valves. Turn the adjuster with a stubby flat blade screwdriver untill the proper clearance is achieved then tighten the locknut (5.8-7.2 ft. lbs) while holding the adjuster in place with the screwdriver. Re-check the clearance with the feeler guage one last time and re-assemble the covers (72 in.lbs) and plugs.
The only thing that i noticed was that I had to clean and silicone the side cam cover other than that I found the whole process rather simple.
I'd give it a 4 out of 10 on the skill level scale.
I hope this helps!
Recently Browsing 0 members
No registered users viewing this page.