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barracuda420

Advice needed: Repairing sunk 2018 Polaris Ranger 500

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Hi, I'm new to ATV/UTV's and am looking for any advice that would help to repair my 2018 Ranger 500.  I got it from an insurance auction and have never owned one before.

It looks like it was sunk deep.  Found rocks and sand in the roof, milky oil in the air filter box, water in the fuse box, etc.

So far, I've cleaned the air box out, vacuumed most of the rocks and sand, checked the engine, trans and diff casings for cracks/leaks.

The battery would not charge while connected so I know there is some short somewhere...probably the wet fuse box.

 

I plan on drying out the fuse box and all connectors with a hairdryer tomorrow, check the fuses, remove/dry out the ECM and disassemble/clean the air intake.  Then install the battery and see if i can get it to key on and see what kind of lights I get.

Need to know what to expect with the engine/trans...

Thanks.

 

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How much did you get it for? I think you are on the right track...

Remove spark plug and crank the engine to make sure no water is in the cylinder/hydro locked. Is it belt drive? There should be a drain to let water out. Check all the electrical, buy a new battery because its probably shorted. Change the oil and filter and plan to do it again after you get it running. You may have other electrical issues but you wont know until you try to get it running.

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Excellent advice by @Ajmboy ! 
I would pull all the plugs apart, fuses out and spray all electric plugs and the fuse box with dialectral grease. Label everything so you don't get confused as well as a few pics incase. 
 

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Bid was $3750.  $4548 with all the fees.  Hoping to see low mileage when I get the power going.  According to the title, it was originally titled 8/2018.  There is about $800 worth of accessories on it too.  Came with no key so I got a $10 chinese replacement just to get working on it.

Auction link: www.copart.com/lot/49761799

I wanna pull the clutch cover off too and see how bad it is in there.  I'm assuming its a belt drive.  I charged the battery and its been holding at 12.2v for 2 days(not connected) so Ill see how that goes later.  Would like to get a sealed AGM battery if they're available.  A buddy of mine said to drain everything from the engine, pour a little oil in the spark plug hole and manually turn the crank to lube the cylinder or the walls may get scratched up and lead to major blow-by.  I heard it is ok to use 5W-40 oil in it so I will run a few oil changes through it with that before switching to the pricy polaris PS-4 oil.  My buddy recommended like a half dozen oil changes to get everything out.

Unfortunately its at my brother's house about an hour away cause I don't have room for it here.  But it is in a heated garage which helps alot being in the Poconos in December.

 

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Thats a good deal, hopefully no engine damage. Depends how it went in the water and for how long.  You'll know once you drain the oil and pull that plug. Take the belt cover off, there also should be a drain plug somewhere. Inspect everything. Hopefully the engine is good, the rest is probably ok.  Worse case scenario I think is an engine rebuild. You can then look used, look for a rebuilder like https://www.rev6sports.com/sportsman-500-engine-rebuild/

or even buy one on amazon - Polaris Ranger 500 99-13 Sportsman 500 96-13 Engine Motor Rebuilt :

Polaris Ranger 500 99-13 Sportsman 500 96-13 Engine Motor Rebuilt

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As long as there's no major expensive parts involved, I may just pull the engine apart and clean it out, install new gaskets, etc.  An OEM crankshaft goes for about a grand. :(  My brother has an old(circa 2000) Sportsman 500 that he re-did the head gasket on...it cant be much different I suppose.  According to the users manual, anything below the floorboards is ok in water.  So diffs should be ok, but a drain and refill won't hurt.

 

Also, my dad is an auto mechanic and happens to have a borescope(? boroscope) which should help.

Edited by barracuda420

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After a good shift last night,  my brother thinks the mechanical stuff is solid but has fears of the electrical stuff.  Being an electronics man, I stand polar opposite.

 

He showed me the motor parts moving properly with the borescope and I showed him how to clean electronics.  He sprayed some lube/penetrating oil/etc into the spark plug hole and turned the crank a few times...looked fluid.  Also showed me the valves moving.  (Note to self: Buy a borescope).     I removed all the aftermarket electronics,  washed and dried out all the electrical plugs I could find and then cleaned and tested the fuse box.  Brake light fuse was blown.  Bed lights need to be tested before re-installing....I'm sure they're filled with water.  From the amount of sand in it, my brother thinks it was sunk for days...possibly stolen and ditched in a river.

Have to do some research and get the proper parts in for the weekend...time to get her cranking!

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Agreed on the electric stuff versus the engine stuff. The engine really only needs a few good flushes and it should be fine. No need to tear it down really.   
The electrical is where the problems happen, current wreaks havoc on the system in water when the shorts happen and destroys the controls very quickly. Especially the ignition parts. 
My guess is thats where you will spend the money.  The harness should be fine though overall and just the components that are on the system. 

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I think I'll do ok as long as the ECM is ok.  Expecting a bad solenoid since it doesnt look waterproof. :(  Everything but the ECM is replaceable at 20% of Polaris cost...ECM is $600...Dealer part only. :( 

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I have faith in it.  I'm more worried about the fuel injection.

 

Anyone know what the antifreeze is?  I'm sure its a regular cheap grade stuff I can get at wally world for cheap.  Polaris stuff is $30/gal!?!?

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$30 a gal ???? Yep thank god for peak or prestone!! 
 

Fuel injectors yes def a good point, it all depends on how long it soaked and if it was fresh or salt water.  

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The stuff in it is green and my brother says its $10/gal.  Sweet.😊  The Polaris stuff is also pre-mixed 50/50, so its like $30 for a half gallon of actual antifreeze. 😠

 

Project is going slow due to the holidays but looks promising... see pic. :D

 

 

 

20191215_223303.jpg

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Posted (edited)

Happy New Year my friends!!!

 

Got her up on stands and drained all her orifices.   Water came from everywhere she can puke from!!!  We replaced all the fluids.  Starts and works mechanically but seems weak.  Display doesn't work again and still no lights.(???)  Don't care about those, I can rig lights for now.  

 

Gonna take her out for a burn in the AM to test the Mechanical.  Then dump/replace fluids again.  

Possibly looking at a valve job and maybe a clutch or two. :/

 

Edited by barracuda420

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Happy new year.  
I figured as much with the display and electrical issues but it sounds like your making good progress. 

 

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We took her out and shes a blast!! Mechanically fine.   Just need to heat her up a little and change the fluids a second and third time and she'll be mechanically sound til summer for a final fluid swap before going to the regular service intervals.  

 

Got the service manual and found out the key/ignition is 4-position, not 3 like the cheap replacement I got.(Keys were missing when I got it)  I think its gonna solve the electrical stuff easy.  If not, I'll hard-wire some lights and tough it out til summer.  

 

Just trying to find good doors, a rear window and a plow kit within a week or 2...

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Awesome, i figured as much with the engine being ok. Thats the best part about the engines, they can be flooded and still work! Wiring/electrical is a whole new ballgame when waters involved. Glad to hear its running and your happy. 

lets see some pics. 
 

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Yeah.  I'm just getting into the sport.  But everyone I talk to says the engines are made to last.  Just replace the fluids a few times and you are good to go!

 

Will snap some pics tomorrow!

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Well, we're not out of the woods on the repair yet...  My brother tried the new ignition switch.  We got lights, still no instrument cluster, battery was at 7.5V and won't crank.  Figure the charging system is messed up and we ended up driving it on battery power only last week.  Started troubleshooting according to the service manual.  Stator output is good(Thank God...it is a pain in the arse to replace!!).  Regulator seems to work but maybe causing voltage spikes.  Found this test on youtube and am going to try to get my brother to do it tomorrow...If I can explain to him how to use the diode test on a multimeter...  

I am not affiliated with these guys, but it seems like a great guide for troubleshooting the diode bridge-rectifier inside the regulator.  If it's not ok to post this link, mods please delete it.

 

Did a google search and it seems these instrument clusters are extremely sensitive to voltage spikes.  This may be caused by a bad regulator(fingers crossed :)).  I brought the cluster home to do some testing later this week.  

 

Trying to get some accessories ordered so I can close some windows on this PC and get my sanity back.  So far, bought a cool rear bumper(pic attached), trying to get a better deal on the Polaris Glass rear window($310 MSRP) and this door kit: https://shockpros.com/product/full-half-solid-series-door-kit-set-of-2/

 

Once I get that stuff moving, I can close some windows and research the plow system and cluster issues easier.  For some reason the Polaris site is saying the plow hydraulic lift and hydraulic angle systems aren't compatible even though they show the lift system on the same push-tube frame assembly for my Ranger??  Might have to just go to the dealer and say "Hey I need a $2000 plow system, can you cut me a little break? Like 5% or so?"

 

KFIBumper.jpg

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What a great find. Good luck with the remaining issues. I'm thinking it may have been a flood victim, stolen rides usually get trashed before recovery. 

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It was in the OP, Jim.  And we think she was totally submerged for a day or so.  Lots of river rock/sand in the top!!

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Yep i figured as much with electrical, the cluster as much as you tell me its good i believe it's intermittent at best and needs replacing. Regulator/rectifier I would just change it. Diode tests will tell you what's going on but i still would not trust it. I hate to be the bearer of bad news but this is going to be an ongoing problem until you change all the electrical components. If your lucky you might be able to save the ECU but I'm even on the fence about that.
 

I wish you luck my friend and i hope I'm wrong but I've seen a lot and water is deadly when it comes to current.  

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Posted (edited)

I'm optimistic.  Think I can drain/reset the meter with a 10k resistor.  Polaris went Overkill on the protection here.  Search for problems with this cluster...the list don"t stop!!

 

**Doors are paid for** Finally :/

Edited by barracuda420

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