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By Adrian Ciotinga
So I’ve had this quad for the better part of a month, and it’s been hard to start since the day I bought it. Once it warms up it idles just fine and has plenty of power and starts no problem, but cold it takes 20 seconds minimum of straight cranking to start it.
It’s not really too big of an issue, I’m just curious as to why it takes so long. Earlier today, it took me about 2 minutes of on/off cranking to get it to fire.
i have attached a video of a cold start to show you what I mean.
I have a 2004 Yamaha Bear Tracker in the shop for repair. I have the service manual but it doesn't have all the information I need to fix the problem. I need to know the voltage output of the stator charge coil and pulse or trigger coil at cranking speed. The wiring diagram color code doesn't seem to match and that is compounded by the fact that the wiring harness CDI connector is missing so I have 7 wires that need to be connected to the CDI. I can not find a circuit diagram of the CDI which tells me where the pulse/trigger coil connects or the charge coil connects. The other 3 wires (black ground, orange ignition coil, and r/b ignition kill sw) also need to be connected. The CDI has a single 8 pin connector and has a P/N 4XE-00 F8T19871 -1122 number on it and I believe it to be OEM. However I think the Stator and pulse coil are aftermarket items. I have resistance tested everything and it all seems to be in spec. but I don't want to miss wire anything and cause damage. Any help would be greatly appreciated.
By Bruce Sawyer
1987 YFM350FWTB 350 4x4 Big Bear when going uphill will sometimes act like the clutch realeases then re-engauge all at once.
Seems to maybe be little more often if the engine is at about 1/2 throttle instead of at lower rpms.
I have the Factory Service manual and checked the external clutch adjustment screw as ok and the H/L/reverse shifter lever linkage as adjusted correctly. It appears to be maybe a internal (inside the case) clutch issue or ??
This is the type Big Bear that has the manual shift lever on the left front fender and has the manual foot shifter lever with 5 speeds forward.
Can someone tell me how the primary and secondary clutch operates?
I assume one is mechanical and one is centrifugal. (what I'm asking is one clutch for the higher rpms and one for the lower rpms or ???. (the clutch appears to only momentarily release at the higher rpms is why I ask. The cycle has about 3000 miles of low speed through the brush hunting and has been well maintained, oil changed, etc and no deep water or mud useage.
Anyone been into a similar issue with the big Bear ATV????
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I picked up a 1997 Yamaha Big Bear 350 2X4 a week or so back in non running condition, apparently they said it needed a new carburetor or a battery, I cleaned the carburetor thoroughly and got it running on idle and without choke now and it shifts into all the gears even into reverse. Aside from making me bounce a little when trying to start out with a bit of throttle the shock suffice to say needs work. Anyways I made a video of it running and would like your opinions on it, as to how it sounds while running. It seems like it has a little whine I'm not sure why that is maybe someone can tell me what it is. Anyways here is the video.
By Gary Ferguson
My old Big Bear nearly left me stranded but I managed to limp back to my garage just before it died. Now No Spark. I’ve changed the obvious, inexpensive and easy parts- spark plug & coil without any luck.
Ive stripped it down and traced all of the related wiring, checking as many connections as I can but no luck again.
Next I pulled the cover and accessed the stator housing to inspect and do some resistance testing to ID a possible short.
Here are my readings:
Source coil- 325 ohms
Pickup coil- 225
Can anyone tell me if these are good numbers, and if good, where to go next?
I assume my next purchase will either be a new stator or CDI, but since neither of these tend to be returnable items I want to be as sure as I can I’m gonna get a resolution to the problem!!
Gary in SC
By Dave Ayoub
Ok i am not quick to jump on a forum and post a question without doing my own part and trying to research and solve the problem myself but I cannot find any definitive information anywhere about my problem. I have a Big Bear 350 that I picked up very cheap which had been sitting in a field for years. I am not new to building wheelers but this one has me beat. After rebuilding top end and replacing the carb it fires right up. The vin has some number worn off from being next to the shifter but from the parts in the clutch i assume it is early since 87 parts seem to be the only ones that match. Thats when the plot thickened.
Reverse works fine but when in the forward gears it would not go past 1st and was hard to get into neutral. ie. a it took a million clicks up to thump into 1 and as many down to find neutral. still never getting past 1st. within minutes i could hear metal screeching and whirling around in the clutch side of the motor. I took the cover off to find that 3 out of the 4 springs on the centrifugal clutch had broken and were shredded. Also the black mechanism that the pawl on shift shaft grabs moves was loose so it wasnt always grab to change the gear on the transmission. I tightened that mech, and replaced the springs assuming it would solve the problem since the gears were not actually changing from the lever and the carrier should obviously not only have 1 spring left.
After putting everything back together it did go into 1st fairly easy but then i again couldnt get it back to N without a million clicks down and couldnt get it to go past 1st. I did one time get it into a higher gear who knows what one but i gained some speed and dropped rpm.
If i jack both the front and the back wheels off the ground and run the motor it becomes much easier to shift and i can get it to run through the gears pretty well. Usually going into N without a huge fight. not perfect but it does hit neutral and roar while spinning the wheels instead of gain rpm and with the power.
I have tried every possible position on the clutch adjustment screw without any noticeable result. I think this could potentially be where my problem lies at this point.
does anyone know if the case is supposed to be threaded? because mine is not. obviously it seems as though it should be since every other bike ive touched has been. i even took the cover off my quadrunner to make sure it wasnt crazy.
when the screw is adjusted and the jam nut tightened the screw will just slide back out since there is no threading in the case. accomplishing nothing.
Does anyone have any insight on any of this? Are my plates stuck, Centrif clutch worn out, case stripped or something else crazy im over looking?
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