Do you own an ATV? Join our Forum!
As a member, you can post in our forums, upload your photos and videos, use and contribute to our downloads, create your own member page, add your ATV events, and even start your own ATV club to host your own club forum and gallery. Registration is fast and you can even login with social network accounts to sync your profiles and content.
By John Victor
My father-in-law gave my boy a 1999 350 Big Bear. It's been sitting in a barn for a bunch of years. It runs great! My boy has been riding a couple weeks now and it has developed a squeal coming from the front end when you get off the gas at speed. No noise during acceleration. At first I thought brakes. I took it for a ride and I don't think it is the brakes. I feel it is the front prop shaft U-joints, front differential or one/both axles. I pulled the fill plug on the differential and I can't find anywhere how much gear oil should be in there. My gut says up to the fill opening. It doesn't have a manual. It's wet in there, just don't see any gear oil.
#1 Should I fill the differential with gear oil up to the fill opening?
#2 How do I check or know if the u-joints are bad? That looks like a "Big Bear" of a job if they don't need to be replaced.
#3 What else could it be? I don't think it is the front bearings. I jacked the front wheels off ground and no play in the right wheel. Very little play in the left wheel, looks like the lower control bushing is where that play is coming from. The rubber CV boots look original but all still intact. Wheels spin easily without any noise.
Thanks for any help!
I have a 2008 loncin desert storm that wont stay running.
When it ran it ran rough and backfired a lot.
Now it will only start with throttle and there's a lot of unburned fuel (white smoke), there's also compression comming out the airbox. Is it the carburetor that is broken?
I have two 2003 Suzuki Ozark 250s, both 2-wheel drive. Last time we rode them about a year ago, the red one was not running well, didn't want to idle, backfired a lot. The green one ran fine.
Fast forward...I ordered a carb kit for both of them, thinking the red one has some trash in a jet. Both of these ATVs have had little use and I've always ran the gas out after use (put an inline cutoff valve in gas line). I pull started the red one to verify it was still running bad. It will start and idle, but as soon as you give it any throttle, it dies instantly. Give it a little choke, dies instantly. Took the carb apart and it was spotless. Went ahead and cleaned all the holes with carb cleaner and blew everything out with compressed air. All new jets, main jet holder, and needles. Put it back on and nothing changed. Starts, idles (not for a long time), but dies as soon as you give it gas. Same happens when you put the choke on. It does the same thing when I try to run it turned to prime on the petcock as it does in the on position.
Not an air filter issue. It is clean and it does the same exact thing with no filter on it.
Thought maybe there was a float issue or maybe a damaged diaphragm, so I took the carb off the green Ozark and put it on red. Started up and initially ran normal and revved for about 10 seconds and then started doing the same exact thing. Starts, idles (not for a long time), but dies as soon as you give it gas. Same happens when you put the choke on.
So...not the carb
Thought maybe vacuum petcock was bad, but there's no gas in the vacuum line going from petcock to carb and gas flows freely when on prime. I even plugged the vacuum line at both the petcock and carb end and tried to run it with valve set to prime. Gas flows freely, but does exactly the same thing. I unscrewed the screw at the bottom of the bowl and gas flows thru carb and out bowl drain line when petcock is set to prime.
So, I'm assuming petcock is good?
Checked spark plug and it wasn't fouled. Reset gap, didn't help. Will swap plugs between Ozarks tomorrow but I don't think that is it.
Anyway, that he history and now you're all caught up. Scratching my head. Valves? These were bought at same time and have had little use. Suggestions?
Similar Tagged Content
By cameron walton
Hi Guys, I'm a newbie but pretty handy with a DMM (controls technician). I have been fighting a junker quad i picked up as a project bike, was assured it would run if I replaced the battery and cleaned the carb. I replaced the battery, rebuilt the carb with a OEM kit. FIxed all my switches and foul played circuitry from the last guy.... So I could get it to start long enough to test the quad, it seems okay from a trans/engine point. However I couldn't get the carb adjusted to idle to save my life with the idle air screw or the thumb screw on the card for the slide. I took it to a friend who is much more familiar with yamaha and quads and he double checked my carb rebuild all was fine, he adjusted the float to make the fuel not overfill which i missed.
He pulled the air intake, got it started and couldn't get it to idle with or without air filter. We started looking at the spark plug (new) and he tested it with a spark plug clamp meter, tested good, pulled it and grounded and it had spark but he felt it was weak. I order a working used oem coil to try the easy things first. When I ohm out the coil on the quad with my Fluke i'm seeing .4 ohms on primary (ground lug to male connector) and 18K ohms on secondary (inside boot to ground lug). Seems like this forum is full of bear trackers so I'm hoping someone has some ideas to help me figure where to go with this. His thought was he know I ave fuel and he knows I have air, spark would be next. I have spark but possibly weak. Thanks
By Timothy Doerr, Jr
Hey y'all. I have a Yamaha ymf 250 BearTracker. I got this thing for free from people whose son tore it to hell. So it wasn't in great shape to begin with. i.e. no indicator lights (neutral light for instance), no ignition switch or key( wires were twisted together to make it run), get the picture yet?
So when it ran it ran rough and I got it running for a year or two, just something fun for the kids to ride on with me on gravels.
Now just randomly, the start button stopped working so I had to jump the solenoid, then put a temp start switch in. Kill switch would still work.
However, the thing has no spark what-so-ever. I've check continuity through the start button and it shows the contact is working, ohmed out the stator, everything is in spec, the reg/rec tested fine as well. I've replaced the solenoid on the off chance it could've been bad and the cdi unit as well, along the the little solenoid relay unit. I'm still getting no spark. The spark plugs is new as well and the coils to the plug have been tested and are good. I've tested and trouble shooted everything I can on this quad and no luck. I watched countless YouTube "no spark" situation videos and it's not helped. Does anyone have any tips or tricks I could try? Would really appreciate some input on this. Thanks!
Have an Bear Tracker 250. Dont have the manual or any literature to help with. Anyhow, starts with pull start in gear, and electric starter doesnt work. Also, neutral light doesnt come on. Where should I begin?? Need some direction on troubleshooting all this. Thanks a million.
By Bronson Weddle
I have a 1999 250 Yamaha bear tracker was told it needed a coil to run got into it to day found out that the kill switch was wired together then I found were they put a new cdi on it they cut all the plugs off the stator wires and the cdi wires I found bits and pieces of wireing diagrams blue pick up wire to red and white green wire to white and green wire rolled it over Had a test light on the coil wire it showed there was juice going to it but no spark on the plug and the coil is a brand new one put it on before trying to test the spark did I miss something or have something hooked up wrong already have plans on a new cdi and stator and pick up coil before I go that far like to hear it run. Thank you for the help in advance
By Stacy Hanks
I have 2000 Yamaha bear tracker 250 - igniton relay and starter relay both were replaced also the neutral switch indicator was replaced-- bike will not show light on for neutral or start when button is pushed
Recently Browsing 0 members
No registered users viewing this page.