Quantcast
Jump to content

  • Do you own an ATV? Join our Forum!

    As a member, you can post in our forums, upload your photos and videos, use and contribute to our downloads, create your own member page, add your ATV events, and even start your own ATV club to host your own club forum and gallery.  Registration is fast and you can even login with social network accounts to sync your profiles and content.

matthew smith

2002 honda recon 250 top end problems

Recommended Posts

I have a honda recon 250 that i just bought. the compression is around 90 needs to be rebuilt. im getting into rebuilding it took apart the top end no problem except for the cylinder walls. as shown in the pictures. the way the piston sits in the cylinder is if you were sitting on the wheeler the skirt on the piston is left to right. so the wrist pin is front to back. which is where the two marks are in the cylinder. so that means the connecting rod is making the piston slap the cylinder on the wrist pin side which seems like a weird way for the cylinder to be moving. not natural. now the connecting rod has slight play left to right but not up and down. ive talked to a few people they say it might be the roller bearings in the connecting rod where it meets the crankshaft. but the play it has is not that much. im just looking for some more input before i start splitting the case. 

20200314_111639.jpg

20200314_111659.jpg

20200314_111708.jpg

Piston diagram.jpg

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites


Welcome to Quadcrazy @matthew smith 

The movement left to right is perfectly fine. If there is up and down then there is a problem.  
Honestly if the compression is that low then a new piston and rings are in need. 
Also a honer VERY LIGHTLY ran through the cylinder jug would be good. 
Also a valve adjustment should be done as well.  
Other then that you should be good to go. 

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

buddy of mine got the same bike that doesnt run good and smokes bad all the time.  are these motors hard to rebuild?  he was asking my about rebuilding his.

id say if your cylinder is gouged out from the skirt slap then your might be good to replace that cylinder.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Skirt slap in the cylinder like that is not totally unusual when the rings are worn completely out.  Chevy 5.3's often have that same skirt slap.  I'd run a hone through it and see if they clean up.  If they don't and are deep enough to feel with your fingernail it either needs to be bored up a size or a new cylinder.  If i was flipping that thing i'd put a cheap cylinder and piston on it and send it on it's way.  If i was keeping it to ride for a while i'd either bore it or get a better quality Weisco kit or similar.

  • Thanks 1

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

so im replacing the cylinder , piston and rings brand new already have the parts. but that is not skirt slap. it is slapping on the wrist pin sides. which is an unnatural movement for the piston. the skirt side is fine. which is left to right inside the cylinder. so the gauges on the piston are on the same side that the connecting rode has play. i thought the slight movement in the connecting rod was normal. play up and down is not good which it is not doing. 

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites


Posted (edited)

i have also taken the valves and springs completly apart and cleaned them the carbon build up was crazy. will be setting the specs once its completely back together

 

Edited by matthew smith

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Left and right movement is normal because the cylinder and piston keep it from moving left to right once the piston is in. 
The only other reason i could think of would be the wrist pin and bearing at the piston? The bearing could be bad or check the top of the connecting rod where the wrist pin goes through and make sure its not egged. (Oval from a worn out bearing) 

 

Hopefully you are putting in new valve stem seals?

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Join the conversation

You can post now and register later. If you have an account, sign in now to post with your account.
Note: Your post will require moderator approval before it will be visible.

Guest
Reply to this topic...

×   Pasted as rich text.   Paste as plain text instead

  Only 75 emoji are allowed.

×   Your link has been automatically embedded.   Display as a link instead

×   Your previous content has been restored.   Clear editor

×   You cannot paste images directly. Upload or insert images from URL.


  • Similar Topics

    • By shitboxlover
      I have a 2008 loncin desert storm that wont stay running.
      When it ran it ran rough and backfired a lot.
      Now it will only start with throttle and there's a lot of unburned fuel (white smoke), there's also compression comming out the airbox. Is it the carburetor that is broken?
    • By Dominic Tiberio
      I was given a Zhejiang Yongkang 500W electric ATV that has had all of the wiring and controls stripped  from it. I plan on installing a new speed controller, but I am having a hard time figuring out how to handle the braking. The 500W electric motor is connected to the rear axle by a chain/gear and it has mechanical disc brakes. I can't figure out how to handle braking without risking damage to the chain/gear and since it is stripped I don't have much to go on. I'm assuming that the brake was originally set to cut power to the motor when engaged, but it seems like it would still put a lot of stress on the chain/gear at any speed. I've never rebuilt an ATV or electric ATV, but I have a lot of mechanical and electronics experience. Any help or insight is appreciated!
    • By Trent Finnessey
      So I’m 14 years old right now..... I’m a pretty good rider for my age, I have a 98’ 300ex that I’m tryna sell. I’m thinking of a 400ex or should I skip the 400 and just go to a 450r or something along those lines? 
    • By dook
      I've been riding Suzuki Kingquad 300's for the last 20 years. I have 3 of them. I love the low gearing, low center of gravity, low rider position, low racks shaft drive and smooth ride, but they are getting old and I'm tired of fixing them. Best engineering of any utility quad, IMO, but the execution...build quality is not up to par with Honda, so the price you pay is lots of wrenching.
      I positively despise CVT type belt drives. My neighbor has a couple of old Hondas, Rancher and Rubicon and I admire the reliability of them. He does very little maintenance and they always run and have pulled my Kingquads home for me when they break.
      Is Honda the only company that makes ATV's that don't have CVT? I like the build quality but I don't like the high rider position caused by the vertical cylinder, the cold nature of them, having to warm up for several minutes and the plastic skid plates. I guess all modern ATV's have the same issues, though (correct me if I'm wrong).
      Been checking with the dealers, it seems Honda foot shift models are scarce. I really don't need devices/gadgets to decide which gear I need to be in. So I'm avoiding the DCT models. I must have IRS and EPS because of my age and physical condition though.
      Is it possible to get a Rancher with IRS, EPS and foot shift? The specs I'm reading show the rancher is 2" lower than the Rubicon. I'm assuming that to be seat height. With vertical cylinder design, the more you grow the engine, the higher you push the seat....at least that's my thinking.
      Any comments from the Honda experienced?
  • Similar Tagged Content

  • Recently Browsing   0 members

    No registered users viewing this page.


×
×
  • Create New...