Quantcast
Jump to content

  • Do you own an ATV? Join our Forum!

    As a member, you can post in our forums, upload your photos and videos, use and contribute to our downloads, create your own member page, add your ATV events, and even start your own ATV club to host your own club forum and gallery.  Registration is fast and you can even login with social network accounts to sync your profiles and content.

Recommended Posts

Okay have an old lakota, died while riding several years back ( early 1500s or so!). Just trying to revive the dead again, recoil starter seems dead.  Hooked a car battery up half arsed and it did turn over although sloooowwwwwwllllllllyyyyyyyy! When it died thought there was no spark. So any ideas on best steps to try and start finding the problems? Put some penetrating oil in cylinder to help loosen it up. 

  • Haha 1

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites


This could be fun...well if you got it to turn over that's good. Here's what I would do:

  • Change the oil
  • Check/Change/Clean the air filter
  • Clean the carb/spray some cleaner in there at least
  • Check for spark
  • Charge the battery or replace it
  • Try starting it again

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Sounds like a good start list, but don't think charging the battery will help, its on the toasted side of life! Now to figure out how to get this pos to where I can work on it! Wish me luck

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Hey TN! 

Personally I wouldn't run fuel from the tank to the carb if it sat for more than a year. I'd get a new battery and see if she'll crank over acceptably. Then (clean the plug) verify spark with no fuel. Once spark is verified. I'd just use starting fluid to see if it'll run. 

If it sat for more than a year, I'd go ahead and remove the tank, remove petcock and clean the tank. My buds sat for many years and then he got it to run, but he said it didn't run well. When I took the petcock off there was trash in the area where the petcock is mounted. The petcock itself was crusty inside.  I was able to disassemble the petcock and clean it (be careful removing o ring) and did get it to function without any leaks. We purchased a petcock but I'd already cleaned the old one by the time it arrived.

Ultimately the carb ended up needing a float valve and thorough cleaning.

Good luck and keep us posted.

 

 

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites


Hey TN!

She looks tired. Hope to hear some positive news in the near future. Good luck.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

She just needs a facelift and a new outfit for the ball is all!

Well, the cdi didn't even bother to test! Can you say burning down the cdi? New one coming later this week, hope to check the coil b4 then.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Well tested the cdi and it was dead dead dead, as well as the ignition coil. Now to test the stator and pickup coil. Need to pull the plastic off for easier access. I really truly hate working in grass and mud!

  • Like 1

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
Posted (edited)

Pulled the plastic off and who ever worked on this bike b4 me needs his man card pulled, and a warning label tattooed on his face not to touch tools! Literally baling wire and 10 to 20 lock washers and regular washers on each too small bolt but waaaaaayyyyyy too long!

Now onward and upward I hope! Fuse blown, handlebar switch bypassed (not by me) and I hate wiring along with work and wrenching but that's another subject!

Edited by tnhomestead
Additionally

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Sounds like most the ones i end up with. Part of the fun and or headaches!

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites


Okay, well threw in a temp patch on the wiring, now have neutral light and power to the front and rear lights if they had bulbs in them. Still no spark, but the handlebar switch looks really bad so will check the kill switch next and change spark plug as well. Tested pickup coil on multimeter and showed okay so hope that's good. Have not tried yet to see if I am getting a pulse from it though. If anyone has ideas feel free since I have no clue what I am doing! Lol

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

How do you know the CDI is bad?  Just curious since there's no way to actually test them.  Not being smart, I genuinely want to know if there is some way that I don't know about.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

According to the manual for the lakota, you can check resistance between the wires and it should fall in specified ranges. In my case, when I checked several of the wires showed open circuit, ie broken connections where they should be resistance.  I took that to be bad! Lol But there are several you tube videos showing how to test all of these but all seem to say it can pass but still be bad.

Like I said. I know very little on these quads, so its possible I messed up big time! But its 14-17 on the Lakota service manual where I got my info if that helps 

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Well took a look at the starter switch wiring while the better half was milking and what do I see? Battery side of solenoid was never connected!

20200626_085607.jpg

20200626_085611.jpg

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

I have just finished dealing with major wiring problems on a bayou 300 and 220 

I know the pain Az

  • Like 1

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites


Ready to pull my last hairs out! Please help b4 I end up looking like I am in basic again, I dont look good bald! No spark. Replaced cdi, tests good. Replaced coil also tests good. Appear to have power to cdi from pickup coil best I can tell with a normal multimeter. Appears to have power to coil from cdi. New plug

WHAT AM I MISSING? Please?

On the good side should have a small cramped space to work next week!

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Have you tested the plug wire and boot? I had a bad boot once new in box. It was cheap chinese so my fault. 

I'm still not convinced it's not CDI. There is no way to properly test a CDI so my advice would be to bake the CDI for 5 minutes or so at 250 maybe and see if you get spark then. CDI doesn't even really do much until its powered and triggered to work so resistance testing wouldn't tell much. 

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Well, worth a try if I dont mind sleeping with the fishes- better half is a bit protective of her new stove! Wonder if you could rig an led light to flash when the cdi gets triggered? I sure do miss points at times, working on stuff smarter than me is a pain! Thanks, will try the idea this weekend

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

I would bypass the kill switch just to rule that out. Also what readings you get on the pick up coil? 

With the kill switch bypassed do you get a pulse from the p/u coil? That would be my next tests. 

Good luck, Az

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites


Join the conversation

You can post now and register later. If you have an account, sign in now to post with your account.
Note: Your post will require moderator approval before it will be visible.

Guest
Reply to this topic...

×   Pasted as rich text.   Paste as plain text instead

  Only 75 emoji are allowed.

×   Your link has been automatically embedded.   Display as a link instead

×   Your previous content has been restored.   Clear editor

×   You cannot paste images directly. Upload or insert images from URL.


  • Similar Topics

    • By Steve Howard
      Ran find shut down the quad next day would start and idle when you try to accelerate it would start popping through the carb got a rebuild kit soaked it in chem clean after break down for 12 hours on slow vibrate reassembled and adjusted per manual still the same thing any help would be really appreciated thanks and happy ridding  
    • By Denis Lanthier
      Hi All,
      I have a 2004 Yamaha Kodiak, which has taken me to many remote places and hauled lots of game.  I still love it after 16 years.
      Lately when I go to start it using the starter, sometimes it clicks and kills the power in the display.  Lights don't work, nothing works and I end up having to unplug the battery, wait awhile, and replugging the battery ends up giving the power back.   Using the winch will sometimes kill the power as well.
      Battery is new, all fuses are ok, I'm at a loss.  I can start it with the pull crank and it will work and so will the lights.
      Any insights or advice would be appreciated!
    • By gareth leifheit
      Ive got a Big Bear 350 4x4 that has been sitting for a couple years. It was put away running but now the pull start wont move and the starter wont turn it either. Any ideas what I can lube up or bang around to loosen it up? Thanks
    • By Maxx
      Hello Guys!
      Dumb question. How much oil registers on the oil level gauge while running? The oil level reads correct when off, but while running I can only see just a little bit in the oil level gauge. Makes wonder if the oil isn't circulating well enough.
      Also, whats your preference in battery brands for ATV's (standard or AGM). We don't ride it all that often.
      Thanks in advance for any info.
    • By Ajmboy
      Disconnected the plow yesterday on my 2004 Yamaha Grizzly 660 and am getting ready to do some riding yesterday and the battery went weak, Starter cranked a few times but week. Put my trickle charger on that I bought and went to the garage today to start it up, but the starter is just spinning and not engaging. The solenoid is clicking. The pull start sucks and is hard to pull (never use it and need to look into that). Quick video of the starter spinning. Could it be the starter or  the starter clutch one-way bearing? I guess I need to take the cover off to see what's going on.

      2004 Yamaha Grizzly 660 Starter Spinning.mp4
  • Similar Tagged Content

    • By Maxx
      Hello Guys!
      Dumb question. How much oil registers on the oil level gauge while running? The oil level reads correct when off, but while running I can only see just a little bit in the oil level gauge. Makes wonder if the oil isn't circulating well enough.
      Also, whats your preference in battery brands for ATV's (standard or AGM). We don't ride it all that often.
      Thanks in advance for any info.
    • By Maxx
      Hey Guys!
      Can anyone out there possibly provide the torque specs and sequence for the gear case/ clutch cover. Need to replace a leaky gasket. Thanks in advance for info.
    • By 87tecate4
      View File Lakota KEF-300 Service Manual 1995-2004
      Kawasaki Lakota 1994-2004 Service Manual
      Submitter 87tecate4 Submitted 07/10/2018 Category Kawasaki ATV  
    • By 87tecate4
      Kawasaki Lakota 1994-2004 Service Manual
    • By M C
      Hello all!
      A friend of mine has this particular 4 wheeler. It sat in the garage for about a year, so I redid the carb, cleaned the tank and installed a new petcock. So far, it cranks right away whether its button started or pull started. So I have a couple of questions concerning the carb and air filter.
      1. Is this a cvk32 250 or 350 carb? As the air fuel ratio adjustment is different according to a cvk document I read. What's your adjustment setting? 2 whole turns and a 1/8 or 2 whole turns and a 1/2? Comparing the old setting on the carb to the new setting (and where the needle sits now), makes me think it was way off before. 
      2. The Air filter cover, gasket, air filter and plate element are all missing. So I was thinking of removing the hose that goes to the air box and put one of those K&N style looking filters and be done with it. So my question is.. will I have to readjust Air Fuel screw or just adjust Idle?
      It's just going to be driven around the neighborhood.
      Thanks in advance for any info or help. Y'all stay safe out there!
  • Recently Browsing   0 members

    No registered users viewing this page.


×
×
  • Create New...