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Hi, I just bought a used 1990 warrior and the rear is sagging low like it has a lowering kit but I’m not sure, does anyone know what it could be?
I have a 02 Warrior i am trying to build a wiring harness i have looked in the manual and i am confused... the pick up has 2 wires. W/R W/G The source rotation coil has 2 wires. One is Red other is white/blue. The manual shows the the white and blue wire connected to the w/g right after the stator... so why is these 2 wires connected? Does not show w/b wire at cdi
i have looked at many options with no luck if someone has a 2002-2004 warrior and can take a pic of the wires and location at cdi i would really appreciate it. Thanks
By Chase Cook
I have a Yamaha 350 in at once to try to fire up but won't. It's getting gas fire air and it has a lot of compression but still struggles to start check the timing it's top dead center valves are good valves are adjusted everything's working but won't fire I put my hand over the carb suck in gas and it tries to but it makes a lot of black smoke. Also when I put my hand over do you carb and tried to start it there's black black nasty stuff in the gas. So I don't know if it's trying to burn too much or what it is the gas tank clean and it anything to do with the gas it's with it firing. Took the spark plug out and it's pure black. What is dried up black not nasty corroded wet looking. Need help to solve the issue
picked up my third timberwolf 250 for my daughters. these are great light weight little quads.
have a strange one for you. the quad will NOT start in neutral. it will start in first.
if i lift up on the gear selector just enough to hear the little click (its not loud, sounds like a contact clicking, perhaps the neutral safety switch?) the light will go out, but it won't yet be in first either. that is how i have shown my daughter to start it and she can.
id like to carry out whatever repair is needed. i have the pdf of the shop manual but it doesn't really have a flow through diagram.
any help appreciated! thank you.
i need to add something. it feels like i can switch into another gear BELOW neutral.
so if i switch to neutral, i can keep pushing the gear selector, and it has another click below the neutral. the light stays on, and when i pull up into first it kind of feels like it has two positions it moves through to arrive at first.
New to Quadcrazy, Has any Yamaha owners had similar issue?
1987 Yamaha YFM 350 Starts on Pull, but just spins on starter, and won't start.
'96 Cherokee here and right now I'm dealing with a no start after a few weeks of suspicious symptoms. She's been driven a lot less over the past year and about a month ago she began starting a little slow. I've got an oversized battery in there so usually she cranks right up no problem. I started monitoring batt voltage and saw around 12.04 V with engine off and 14.10 V or so running. Right before I get the new battery I head to Advance and they run a battery/alternator test. Kid tells me my batt is bad but alternator is still good.
So I lay out the $ and install the same size 34N EverStart Maxx 800 cca from Wally's and the slow start persists. Measuring the new battery with engine off yields consistent readings of just under 12.7 V, so for the past few weeks I began charging the batt at 2A which seemed to help. A few days ago I venture out for an errand and the engine doesn't restart to get me back home. I get no clicks or cranking at all with a key turn. Batt measures 12.67 V at the terminals. Dash gauges seem to react with the key on, voltmeter reading ~11.5 V, although I'm not sure how accurate that is. Fuel pump pressurizes.
Something that happened right after battery change out, which may or may not help in diagnosing the problem, is that my pass side headlight only illuminated half way while the driver side stayed full bright. I have an LMC Truck aftermarket headlight wiring harness giving 55/100w low high beam. It's the kind where you run the lights straight off the battery through additional relays. Had to tinker with the light harness a bit to get the new batt in and may have compromised a connection? Maybe a ground? Either way the pass headlight started showing full bright after only 1 or 2 occurrences and has been right ever since. With my alternator testing good and a new battery I wondered if maybe a loose connection was draining my voltage. I was in the middle of testing batt V connected vs. disconnected over time but this no start happened before I could get it done.
Last thing to mention is that recently I've been removing both my fuel pump and starter relays for security reasons. The way it's acting now is exactly like when trying to start with both relays removed. Being that the fuel pump is pressurizing should I consider testing the starter relay? Other than that could I have caused some kind of part failure by removing and reinstalling the relays maybe around 5-6 times over the last month?
Hi all, bike does start with the electric start mostly, but the battery was weak and wouldnt start it the other day so went to use the pull start, to say its hard is an understatement first of all you gotta do a little jiggling about til it catches then pulling it takes some effort now i know im not the strongest fella in the world but this is so much harder than it should be.
It does start of the pull just to get the engine to initailly turn is so hard any ideas why its happening or how to fix this,
Hi all, new to this forum so thanks in advance for the help.
I have recently brought a 2013 power steering fuel injected foreman 500.
It has a crack in the front casing and was running rough. I have since replaced the front engine casing and this has made no difference to the engine performance.
It starts and idles but bogs down and starts to die once throttle is applied.
It maybe be but it also sounds very load.
I have uploaded a video link of it.
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