2008 Jianshe 400 Non start issue post change of starter clutch…
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By N00bie
From Arkansas. Just bought a 2012 Gator 850i RSX because I could not pass up the price. BUT it has an idle problem. So, to be honest, I joined just to get a service manual. I have a choice: 1)Buy a hard copy: ~$100; 2)Buy a CD ~$35.00; Get a direct download for free posting 10 times; or get a download for $29.00 (subscription). Haven't decided what to do yet.
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By semicolon
Hi, I am having issues with my TRX350D fuel pump. It suddenly stopped running so I have replaced all the fuses and cleaned all the terminals. I have fitted a new pump, fuel cut-off relay and rectifier. Still nothing!! The pump runs when attached to a battery. The engine will start on the choke and the filter fills with fuel but it will not rev and dies when the choke is closed. I have power to the relay but nothing at the pump black/white wire when cranking the engine. Any ideas where to go from here would be very much appreciated!!
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By ResQ91
Hi Guys!
New member and could really use your advice. I would have to believe this has been an issue for others but a search here came up with nothing......? (Probably me not doing search correctly)
I have an 87 Big Bear 350 YFM350FWT
The OEM Mikuni BTM carb is shot and would rather replace than rebuild.
It is no longer made and I have had good luck with NICHE carbs so I ordered a #K-CRB-0006 This was what they said was replacement when ordered. This Carb only uses 1 Throttle cable. The Slide is linked so it uses one. (OEM had 2nd cable coming through top to move slide)
Problem is when I ordered a replacement Cable from NICHE (#C-CBL-0061) the Cable wire is a little short, not allowing Throttle to return all the way down to Idle position. I called NICHE and they are at a loss. Haven't gotten back to me after 2+ weeks.
What would you recommend other than a carb rebuild?
Can I just use 1 of the OEM cables (It is the right length) and snip/disconnect the other that went to top of Carb for Slide?
Or ??
Thanks in advance for any advice you have!!
Dave
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By skittle021
So I've got a Hisun 550 that I was doing some work on that required removing the CVT and it's housing. Upon attempting to reinstall the clutch, sheaves, etc, I found that the belt no longer fits - it's far too wide. None of the parts have been replaced, they're all OEM. Exactly the same parts as what I took off a few weeks ago.
To be more specific, my belt is 1.25in wide, but the gap between the clutch and the primary sheave is only 7/8in wide. I'll include a few photos to explain.
Has anyone ever experienced such a bizarre problem? Any help at all would be appreciated, I've been stuck on this for a month. I'm open to just about any suggestion.
Photos:
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By Drillbit
Hey all,
I need some input on a problem I'm having with my Kodiak 400 that keeps fouling plugs. First off, I've done a lot of work to this thing, most of it all in good fun. Brake work, cv joints, u joints, carb kit, checked valve lash, compression good, changed all fluids, etc... My problem is it keeps fouling plugs very quickly. I can put a new (manual recommended plug) in and it starts right up, runs great, idles great, picks up good. Doesn't stutter at all. I ride it for 1/2 a mile, it cuts off and won't start back up. I let it sit overnight thinking maybe it got to hot. Try to start it the next day, nothing. Put a new plug in, fires right up, runs great for another 1/2 mile or so, dead. The plugs come out and look carbon fouled with dry black soot on them. I don't know if this is a fuel/air mixture problem or a ignition problem. A couple of things that I noticed is I never need to pull the choke out to start it. Also, when it starts it automatically idles high like an automatic choke would do, then it comes back down to a good idle. Also I noticed that the air/fuel mixture needle valve screw does nothing when I adjust it in or out. I can screw it all the way closed and the motor still runs and idles good. Any advice would be greatly appreciated. I'm almost leaning to a ignition breaking down the plugs??
Thanks!
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