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By Ellery Zandt
I have no idea where the antifreeze line coming off the thermostat goes too. The carb two nipples in the pic create a vacumme. Can someone help me on this please....!!! my email direct is [email protected]!!!!
By Dwight Williams
I have a 99 Kodiak 400 4X4 that I picked up for $300. The previous owner had modified the foot shifter by welding a piece of rebar to it so he could hand shift while plowing. As you can imagine, the allows for much more torque on the shifter than it was designed to have, and he broke the stopper off of the the shift mechanism. No big deal, I ordered the part and put it back together, went through the carburetor and off we go, it runs pretty good.
The first thing I noticed is that when I put the shifter all the way down it goes into reverse, I'm supposed to twist a knob to get it to reverse but this seems to be disabled. Also, once in reverse, it's a bugger to get back out. I have to hold the shifter up, then quickly back down and up again to get it to come out. All forward gears work fine, clutch is tight, no problems.
The reverse cable and lever are in tact and seem to move freely.
My question is this: What does one normally have to do to get this thing into reverse? I assume put it in neutral, twist the knob, kick the shifter down. Does the brake need to be applied? I'm not sure what's going on here, I suspect it's been 'modified' as it goes into reverse without the proper precautions, just not sure if the mods were external on internal.
When it is cold outside, say 35 deg F and colder, it is very difficult to shift to Reverse from neutral. Engine temp doesn't have an effect. I apply the brakes hard with the hand lever and the foot pedal. In another post I read that high idle can affect shifting when the engine temp is warm.
I will try it with lower idle speed once I find the screw. In the interim, can you tell me if there is some sort of adjustment for the shifter?
By Adrian Ciotinga
I recently picked up an ‘07 KFX 700. All was going well, rode it about 40 miles, when it started bogging at low speeds. If I kept the revs higher, I was just fine. Also, a persistent issue since I picked it up is the fairly difficult start (but it is abnormally cold right now and the quad is jetted for the dunes at summertime).
Regarding the complete lack of idle, I have to rev it a couple times to get it to idle after starting it, after which it’s 50/50 whether it remains idling. I don’t have low fuel, but all of this began after I rode it pretty hard and the radiator fan kicked in. Might be overheating, just wanted to hear your opinions.
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Hello, i recently bought a 2000 Suzuki LTF500 semi-automatic. I was riding it and found out that its hard to shift into 3rd gear and above. could it be because of the tuning because the rpm might be to high, cuz in neutral it would sometimes rev high by itself? or could it be something in the trany?
Also it shifts easily when off
hey I'm dave westfall I'm new I just became an official member of this site a few minutes ago. Ive been crazy about quads and bikes since I was about 3 and ive always done my home work on them figuratively speaking. I would say for comparison to the common man that I am pretty knowledgeable about them. its been my passion about most of my life. I love talking about quads and bikes so if anyone out there would like to talk with me about mechanical subjects or about person experiences while riding or just shoot the breeze please feel free to chat with me. I'm looking forward to it.
Just signed up, as I've had a recurring problem, and need some help.
To start the bike I have to put the choke on all the way and 4 squeezes on the gas, Then as I push the start, I slow squeeze the throttle about half way for it to catch....If I miss it, then it will take 5 mins of slowly finding the sweetspot on the choke in unison with some throttle squeezes.
Then I have to to hold the throttle to keep the bike going, using the choke will stall it out. after about 3 mins of holding the throttle, I then can let it go, and it idles fine, and runs fine. If it sits for a few hours it's only slightly hard to start, but a few days of sitting, and it's a lot more work.
Had the bike serviced they couldn't figure it out. They swapped peticock, plug, new gas, all new lines, new throttle, and cable. Said the carb was fine, and clean. New air filter, said fuel pump was fine, no leaks around carb boots, new battery, new rectifier.
Ran some sea foam through it....Runs Great.....Just such a pain to start...
Somehow ran my system dry of coolant and didn't know it. Was running with dead battery. i.e. no lights. Overflow hose from filler neck to recovery bottle was melted.
Wheeler is very hard to start after this. Prior; rebuilt the carb and machine ran great. Now I have to slightly hold the throttle at just the right spot while choke is on to get the engine to turn over fast enough to start.
Now once it starts I am getting white smoke coming out where the thermostat goes. I removed while flushing out remainder of old antifreeze and beginning to put in new.
See the video.
Thanks for your input.
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