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Ok so I'm back lol
I got two arctic cat 300s that I am either trying to make one of the two or if possible I'll get them both running. I have a good start but I am struggling to find a wiring diagram that actually shows the connections.
Both bikes were tore apart and some wiring was spliced and all screwed up so I have been tracing wires and redoing the connections.
On one bike I have a neutral light and it will let the use e start to turn starter motor, thing is on that bike the motor is stuck engaged so when I pull the pull cord it's turning the starter motor as well.
On the other bike it is free and works as it should but I can't get the neutral indicator light to come on. Or any for that matter. I have been going through the fuses which all have power as well as the e start switch.
I'm wondering if anyone has come across some similar issues, I am checking the neutral switch tonight, I have been checking the wiring and comparing it to the bike that is working (in that sense) but both bikes are missing some things
I'm wondering if it is a better option to pull the good motor out and rebuild it then put it into the bike with the indicator lights working. But on that bike all the bushings and linkages are toast so there's a lot of work to either bike. I'd like to at least get the engine to fire up before I invest too much energy into swapping motors.
So if anyone has some info or can send me in the direction of a good wiring diagram it would be much appreciated. Thanks
I have been rebuilding some ATVs in my spare time and teaching myself along with the help from the internet how an engine works and getting bikes running again is quite enjoyable. I even built an arctic cat 300 4x4 from two parts bikes the had seized motors and missing parts. It was pretty enjoyable.
So I am now working on a sazuki quadrunner 300 1992 which had a whole list of issues when I got it. I have fixed almost everything I need to in order to get this bike running. But something is going on inside the head or crankcase.
I had to replace the timing chain because it was very stretched due to the previous owner.
What the issue was, the timing chain was off the sprocket inside the engine due to it being stretched it slipped off. So the previous owner rebuilt the top end thinking it would fix it which it may have temporarily, but when doing so they welded an extra inch onto the tensioner to hold the chain tight. Which as you can imagine caused a dozen other issues.
So that stretched the chain to the point where I could remove the cam with the tensioner in.
It beat the sliders all to hell. Destroyed the cylinder housing and obviously ruined the tensioner.
I didn't realise all of this until after I rebuilt the engine. I noticed wear where the timing chain runs through the cylinder. I found the cam had no retaining chair, or clip whatever you want to call it so the cam was beat to sh** also. It had almost an inch of play side to side.
So I pulled the head off of my parts bike and fixed all of it. Then put it together and went to pull it over and found it was not on the sprocket (this is when I realised that all that damage and the welded tensioner was because the timing chain had been off the sprocket)
So I pulled the stator cover off and pulled the flywheel (which I should add to get at the stator cover I have to remove the rear tire and a arm as well as remove the bolt through the front of the engine. And the exhaust system has to be removed to pull the cylinder as the exhaust guard is bolted to the side of the timing chain tensioner. Stupid setup. Glad the king quad doesn't have that.
So I got everything apart and the flywheel off. New timing chain (nice and tight now) put the head back together and flywheel but it is quite hard to turn the engine over. I can but with difficulty. When the valve cover was off it seemed to spin much more freely. Before I tear everything back apart and start again any ideas on what it is?
Okay so I bought this 1997 sazuki king quad from a guy and he had it for a few years.
He had it registered and on the trails last year but he said it bogged and backfired when he would try to drive it. so it sat for a year.
I bought it for 800 bucks and got it running that night and it ran great for a few days
But I parked it the other night and went to start it again and it was really hard to fire up and when I did it was bogging and idling high then low again.
So I took the carb out and cleaned it (ended up doing it twice because it was still doing the same thing)
Now today I have it running slightly better, but it is still like 20%
I have been looking it up and trying to figure it out but I can't find the issue, has anyone else had this problem? I'll attach a video of it running and giving some throttle
2014 Honda Rancher TRX420TM1: Unit starts right up, once it warms up it stalls and more difficult to start but once it does start it won't stay running. I have replaced the fuel assembly, IACV, O2 sensor and fuel injector. There are no active DTC codes. Disconnecting fuel line at injector and turning on key there is a steady stream of fuel. Plug looks good did not see crack in ceramic. Is there any way to test the ignition coil?
Thanks for any help.
As it should be easy to see I am not a four wheeler mechanic so I apologize for asking for help, I replaced my OEM carburetor with a aftermarket carburetor and with y’all’s help adjusted the air/ fuel and it ran great until this evening and I noticed a smell of fuel I inspected carburetor area and found a steady flow at the vent line on the bottom of the carburetor so my question is is the float the only thing that will cause this problem? Before I installed the carburetor I checked the jets for tightness and they all seemed fine?
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