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WARRIOR 350 clutch sliping

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ok so my quads clutch has been stock since i bought it then started slipping so i put in a new one. worked great for about minutes then started slippin again. after about a half hr i could not even spin tires on packed dirt. pissed

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my clutch was doing the same...i got a new one and than had to adjust it and now its kinda working but still not the best

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u did put the metal clutch plates rough side tords the motor right? oh and if u adjusted the clutch cable make sure u have a little play in the clutch arm on the motor it self, if it has no slack then the prussure plate can not close all the way so it will slip and will burn your clutch out fast!

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no its no synthetic, iy was however 20w50 thats pretty thick could this be a prob? yes i adjusted it several times has correct amount of slack. clutch plates are facing correct way. ive ben rebuilding atvs and bikes my whole life and this has never happened to me!

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no its no synthetic, iy was however 20w50 thats pretty thick could this be a prob? yes i adjusted it several times has correct amount of slack. clutch plates are facing correct way. ive ben rebuilding atvs and bikes my whole life and this has never happened to me!

ight, well if thats all good, run like 10w30 weight oil

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try a quality motorcycle oil, if u run automotive oil it has friction reducers in it. Are u sure its the clutch slipping??? Is it jerking??

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no its no jerking and is def the clutch i was also thinking maybe it over heated the springs causing them to lose tension

Did you double up on the friction plates...my bf says that when u put the new clutch in if u put another friction plate in it tightens things up pretty good.

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no, i never heard of that before, but i shouldnt have to do that, the only mods are a stage 2 cam, supertrap exaust, and open airbox(no lid). so it shouldnt be to much pwr for it .

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im sure her boyfriend means an EP extra plate clutch kit not doubling up on plates.AS i have one in my zilla. meanwhile you replaced the springs when you did clutch id imagine too right?

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no, i never heard of that before, but i shouldnt have to do that, the only mods are a stage 2 cam, supertrap exaust, and open airbox(no lid). so it shouldnt be to much pwr for it .

The Warrior is notorious for slipping clutches.

LT250R is right, lildaisygrl doesn't always translate my wordings right :) You want to run an extra steel plate in the stack.

These motors also heat up and the oil breaks down quick. You may want to consider doing an oil cooler mod.

What clutch kit did you put in it? It wasn't by any chance Barnett was it?

And synthetic motorcycle oil will not cause slippage. Automotive Synthetic will if it has friction reducers.

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The Warrior is notorious for slipping clutches.

LT250R is right, lildaisygrl doesn't always translate my wordings right :) You want to run an extra steel plate in the stack.

These motors also heat up and the oil breaks down quick. You may want to consider doing an oil cooler mod.

What clutch kit did you put in it? It wasn't by any chance Barnett was it?

And synthetic motorcycle oil will not cause slippage. Automotive Synthetic will if it has friction reducers.

no it was a stock replacement at bike bandit. way too expensive, never buy from them again!

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And synthetic motorcycle oil will not cause slippage. Automotive Synthetic will if it has friction reducers.

Well I know with my TRX450 a synthetic oil in the tranny side will cause slipping. Honda has told me this and I have a riding buddy who exp it 1st hand.

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It's not because of the vague description of Synthetic oil.

Honda says you can run Synthetic in both sides of the motor. Tranny side, run a Synthetic that has no Molybednium Disulfide. (They sell two versions of their HP4 oil, one with moly and one without - your manual I believe suggests GN4 or HP4, without moly).

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