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By hardcastle
My friends KQ 300 starts fine and runs, as soon as you put it in gear and try to accelerate its bucks and farts like crazy, not moving... I cleaned carb and it worked good for 1 day... now back to same problem.... could it be such as a bent valve????
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By mywifeknowseverythin
For those of you who are into coffee, I found this little article that might interest some of you.
I admit it. I am a coffee snob. I try not to be obnoxious about it, but let the record show: I enjoy a really great cup of coffee. But pay $4 a cup for it? No way. Even snobs have their limits.
Over the years, I’ve learned that a really good cup of coffee has less to do with money and more to do with knowledge and care. In fact—and this is the amazing thing—the more I learn, the less I spend.
BEANS. Purchase whole bean coffee as soon after it has been roasted as possible. Freshness is the key to a superb cup of coffee. Purchase in small amounts—only as much as you can use within 2 weeks of being roasted.
RATIO. The perfect ratio of coffee beans (prior to grinding) and water is: One-half cup whole beans to 8 cups of water.
GRIND. Grind your beans as close to brew time as possible. A burr or mill grinder that crushes the beans is preferable to a blade grinder that cuts them. Once ground, coffee should be used immediately.
WATER. If your water is highly chlorinated use bottled or filtered water. It must be right at 200 F, just short of boiling temperature, when it hits the dry grinds. This is critical to creating a great cup of coffee. Consume immediately.
STORE. The enemies of roasted coffee beans are air, moisture, heat and light—in that order. Keep your beans in an airtight container that is not close to moisture (sink, dishwasher), heat (oven, stove) or light (countertop). Do not store your daily coffee in the refrigerator or freezer because contact with moisture causes it to deteriorate. For larger quantities of roasted beans that you cannot use within 2 weeks, wrap in airtight bags and store for up to a month in the freezer—making sure the beans are completely protected against moisture. Once removed from the freezer, do not return.
BUY. Most supermarkets offer high-quality, roasted coffee beans for $.60 to $1 per ounce ($9.50 - $16.00 per pound). Ouch! Discount warehouse clubs like Costco, Sam’s and B.J.’s have considerably less expensive coffee at about $9 a pound for name brands like Starbuck’s and Peet’s. Still, that’s too rich for my blood.
ROAST. I roast my own coffee for two reasons: It is infinitely better tasting and half the price. I purchase green coffee beans by mail order for about $4 - $6 a pound, depending on current conditions and variety. I started out roasting in a popcorn popper (West Bend’s Poppery II is ideal) and have graduated to a small coffee roaster. My favorite resource for everything from roasting instructions to green coffee beans is http://www.u-roast-em.com/. Owner Jim Cameron has a wealth of knowledge and is anxious to share.
You won’t believe how easy it is to roast coffee. And enjoyable, too. I roast only one-week’s worth at a time—about twenty minutes. Green coffee beans have an indefinite, useful shelf life of at least a year, and probably two or longer. But I’ll never know. Coffee beans just don’t last that long around my house!
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By Jhb12686
Hello I appreciate the welcome into the group. I am beyond frustrated with this desperate search for parts. I have a 2013 XY power sports UTV 300. I had a catastrophic failure in my rear differential which resulted in the destruction of almost everything inside. I have located everything I need to completely redo the rear end. But I cannot find a short side axle shaft with six splines etc. it's an offset differential and one shaft is longer than the other and I need the short one. The tip of it broke off (pic). Any help in getting another shaft for this thing would be GREATLY appreciated. Thanks guys
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By dlgg7
I've had this for probably 15 years. It ran great till 4-5 years ago, mainly riding the grandkids around our fields, till it wouldn't start. It sat for a couple of years till I bought a new battery, but couldn't get it to even hit, so rebuilt the carb, put on a new fuel pump, but no go, so it's sat. Several days ago, charged battery, cranked over and it started??? OK, idles good, but won't rev up, so emptied gas tank, flushed out and filled w/good 93 octane, pulled pump line from carb and have good full line of fuel cranking over. New spark plug, good spark, old one black BAD! Oil change, adjusted valves, no difference. Pulled carb and took apart and cleaned, didn't find any clogs or crusted up inside. Now I've had the carb back off probably 6 times checking, double checking anything I can think of. No gas blowing back in air box. It idles good, can increase throttle up some then starts popping and dropping rpms off and if I don't let off the throttle, it'll die. I've read for 3 days now MECHs and RANDY walking several thru tracing the same problem, tried MOST of the direction given. ??? 
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By Seriousbird
1992 Suzuki kingquad 300 with 17000 kms.
New intake boot same old problem. Starts and Idles perfect, wont take any % of throttle. Same tune i had as when it got flooded with water.
All i did since then:
Cleaned the top and bottom of the carb and jets.
Swapped different plastics onto it.
Rebuilt the starter.
Added another ground. (Since removed)
Extended the positive terminal so it can fit without strain.
Added battery.
Swapped carb diaphragm off of another. (No holes)
Did a temporary oil cooler delete.
Flushed and replaced the oil.
Just added a brand new intake boot & gasket....
Had it running perfectly just days ago minutes after i siliconed the intake gasket. It has since melted away from gas i assume. Didn't touch it for 4 days went to go for a ride and bogged and bogged. Replaced the gasket and intake boot to no avail, so i really don't know what's going on now.
The spark plug is dry carbony but it's the same tune as before..
Has good fuel flow in the line, fuel is new.
I was testing spark yesterday and it was bright orange. And it eventually went back to its white, Not blue by any means.
Before i replaced the intake boot it would take tension on the throttle and you would get 2000 rpm max before it bogged..
Since i replaced it, it won't take any at all. Spraying flammable liquids into the carburetor had the same bog result. I tried spraying said flammable liquids around the head boot seal and didn't notice any difference. I didn't try for too long.
boot to head is tightened as much as i could with a screwdriver + less than a quarter turn with a ratchet.
Previous silicone very possibly could have fell into the combustion chamber and did something there??...
No difference with any choke, with or without airbox boot, pressurizing the fuel tank, battery disconnected.. there was a point where i left choke on and had the air filter that came with it on and it flooded the whole airbox with fuel, That was when i was building compression because i lost all of it during the flushing process. (It's back now)
Im lost! This thing was perfect until i got water in the oil and flushed everything and what not. Its only been less than a week since then so theres no chance the fuel went bad.
Snapchat-1004857443.mp4 Ps the switch is a neutral safety switch bybass. It really hates itself with the switch off. It makes a knocking noise and idles with a surge. Is perfect with a battery connected off and on but without a battery it has to be on..
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