Join Today, It's Simple and FREE!
As a member, you can post in our forums, upload your photos and videos, use and contribute to our downloads, create your own member page, add your ATV events, and even start your own ATV club to host your own club forum and gallery. Registration is fast and you can even login with social network accounts to sync your profiles and content.
By Gary Ferguson
My old Big Bear nearly left me stranded but I managed to limp back to my garage just before it died. Now No Spark. I’ve changed the obvious, inexpensive and easy parts- spark plug & coil without any luck.
Ive stripped it down and traced all of the related wiring, checking as many connections as I can but no luck again.
Next I pulled the cover and accessed the stator housing to inspect and do some resistance testing to ID a possible short.
Here are my readings:
Source coil- 325 ohms
Pickup coil- 225
Can anyone tell me if these are good numbers, and if good, where to go next?
I assume my next purchase will either be a new stator or CDI, but since neither of these tend to be returnable items I want to be as sure as I can I’m gonna get a resolution to the problem!!
Gary in SC
By Scott Matthews
Just picked up a 1989 Big Bear 350 for $250 CAD. Bike was running but lost crank and spark. They've installed a new coil, a couple relays, and installed a Ford starter solenoid in place of the original. Now it cranks but has no spark so they sold it to me. Does anyone have a wiring diagram for this bike so I can test some wiring. Also any ideas as to direction to head would be nice. Lots of things have been hacked together so I know it probably wont be to easy. The ignition switch was replaced with a toggle switch, I already mentioned the Ford solenoid which 1 of the small wires was not re-installed, and a diode or something was removed from the oil temp sensor wire. I'm sure I will find more so a diagram would be amazing.
Problem: The ATV starts and runs at idle perfectly. But as soon as I open the throttle, the engine starts to slow down until it stops. On the attached video you can hear the sound of how it works: see video below
Prehistory: there is a Polaris Sportsman 500 1998, which for about 1.5 years stood in repair, including also replacing CDI with one taken from the same ATV. Finally, the vehicles were on wheels, traveled several kilometers and overheated - forgot to fill the antifreeze Came back home in small moves. The next trip started well, but after 10 km there was a feeling of a small drop in power (even as the vehicle got warm completely) but still drives. Next trip - the situation is repeated. The next test of ATV through time and a huge loss of power from the very beginning. The engine sneezes, does not want to go more than 5 mph.
What has been done: the carburetor has been replaced with a new one (inexpensive, $ 40), a new spark plug, a new ignition coil, the engine head has been removed, the piston is in good condition, valves were corrected - but the problem was definitely not in them.
Ignition control unit is suspected. Who faced similar? Please help in solving the problem.
Thanks in advance.
This may sound like a stupid question, as I'm prone to ask sometimes. But...I drive a '96 Cherokee with the inline 4.0 non-interference engine and it doesn't like driving in the heat so much. Since I'm a car down right now I'm driving it a LOT more than I used to. After a lot of driving in this hot weather it starts slower, but still starts and runs ok.
So to help it out I've been raising the hood and putting 2 box fans right on top of the engine to help it cool. I hadn't thought about it but my Mom asked if cooling it down too quickly could be bad for the engine. And since I don't know I thought I'd ask here.
Any harm in using my method to cool an engine down much more quickly than normal?
By Dave Ayoub
Ok i am not quick to jump on a forum and post a question without doing my own part and trying to research and solve the problem myself but I cannot find any definitive information anywhere about my problem. I have a Big Bear 350 that I picked up very cheap which had been sitting in a field for years. I am not new to building wheelers but this one has me beat. After rebuilding top end and replacing the carb it fires right up. The vin has some number worn off from being next to the shifter but from the parts in the clutch i assume it is early since 87 parts seem to be the only ones that match. Thats when the plot thickened.
Reverse works fine but when in the forward gears it would not go past 1st and was hard to get into neutral. ie. a it took a million clicks up to thump into 1 and as many down to find neutral. still never getting past 1st. within minutes i could hear metal screeching and whirling around in the clutch side of the motor. I took the cover off to find that 3 out of the 4 springs on the centrifugal clutch had broken and were shredded. Also the black mechanism that the pawl on shift shaft grabs moves was loose so it wasnt always grab to change the gear on the transmission. I tightened that mech, and replaced the springs assuming it would solve the problem since the gears were not actually changing from the lever and the carrier should obviously not only have 1 spring left.
After putting everything back together it did go into 1st fairly easy but then i again couldnt get it back to N without a million clicks down and couldnt get it to go past 1st. I did one time get it into a higher gear who knows what one but i gained some speed and dropped rpm.
If i jack both the front and the back wheels off the ground and run the motor it becomes much easier to shift and i can get it to run through the gears pretty well. Usually going into N without a huge fight. not perfect but it does hit neutral and roar while spinning the wheels instead of gain rpm and with the power.
I have tried every possible position on the clutch adjustment screw without any noticeable result. I think this could potentially be where my problem lies at this point.
does anyone know if the case is supposed to be threaded? because mine is not. obviously it seems as though it should be since every other bike ive touched has been. i even took the cover off my quadrunner to make sure it wasnt crazy.
when the screw is adjusted and the jam nut tightened the screw will just slide back out since there is no threading in the case. accomplishing nothing.
Does anyone have any insight on any of this? Are my plates stuck, Centrif clutch worn out, case stripped or something else crazy im over looking?
Similar Tagged Content
By Ashton Crawford
Hello everyone, i have 2000 Polaris Trail Blazer 300 I’ve been stumped on for weeks. I’m having a lot of issues starting the quad. I cleaned the carb spotless because I thought it was a carb issue and bought a new fuel line because it wasn’t getting fuel. The carb gets fuel perfectly fine now but it won’t start. The spark plug I a little worn out but it’s good enough for just one start. The only time it does “start” is when I spray starter fluid into the carb. But it never stays on. It’ll start for a bout a second then just die out immediately even if you’re giving it some throttle and the choke is on. I have no clue what I should do. If you need more information, have questions, or have any slight idea what the issue would be and how I could resolve it. Please reply ASAP. Thank you.
Ok...I'm gettin' me juevos ready to do an oir filter clean....
Went to my local harley/quad dealer and he had me purchase the No-Toil kit (Cleaner, Air Filter Oil, Rim Grease)
What I've read is that the No-Toil cleaner will NOT clean
other oils off air filters....just the No-Toil oil....
So, I've also read that others have cleaned their air filters
in the kitchen sink, used gasoline, or used flash solvent....
Looking for advice as I've mentioned I'm very mechanically
I'm going to wash the air box seal in the sink and give it a good dry....
One more thing......No-Toil or Bel-Ray for filter oil?
By Jeff Wharton
I have a 2000 Arctic Cat 300 4 wheeler. I have been having some carburetor issues. So i bought a new carb. Now I'm having these issues. The unit will start and idle fine, when i go to accelerate it wants to cut off. So i checked to make sure it was getting gas and the fuel filter will be full of gas and then once the carb opens the filter drains down and will not refill quick enough to run. So i checked to make sure gas was flowing to the filter and it is flowing fine through the line. I remove the filter and run the gas line directly to the carb and the engine idle fine and then it will run good as i ride it for about 10 minutes then it will start with the same issues again i cannot accelerate enough to move the 4 wheeler. Every time i accelerate the unit will cut off. What is wrong with this thing. My 400 Arctic Cat is doing the same thing except it will backfire, I'm lost i have tried everything i know to do, what am i missing here. Thanks for your help
I’m looking for new replacement shocks (front & rear.) on my 1997 Kawasaki Bayou 300 2x4. New OEM shocks are upwards of $400. I haven’t pulled the rims off to check the eyelet to eyelet length but I’m hoping an expert on this site does know( I called Kawasaki direct yesterday and they were of know help.) Any technical help would be appreciated. TY fellow members. Vic
Recently Browsing 0 members
No registered users viewing this page.