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By Dra O
Looked at this one-owner 1998 454 today. Pics below. Do you see TONS of cash being tossed into this thing? I like the low miles but I don't like the electrical "arrangement."
1360 miles - one owner that used it for hunting - owner said it has been outside, as is, for 5-6 years (he originally told me 10 years).
-a marine battery charges EVERYTHING (I didn't think this was possible) - he did this primarily for the wench - a charged 12v battery didn't turn anything on the instrument panel - a charged marine battery would help but I didn't have one in my back pocket
-no oil detected after taking off cap and I put my finger in DEEP. no gas in tank. brake fluid reservoir not dried up but has dark/old fluid
-tires w/ good tread but cracking walls - some rims rusted but appear to be straight -air box dry but filter old/useless -original carb - didn't take out to inspect
-foot shifter felt good/cycled through the gears -pull start worked but I failed to check for spark
-and then there's the WIRES... and WIRES... and WIRES. Basically neuroanatomy 101. More like Arctic Cat Nightmare 101. New wiring harness on ebay runs around $70 - but this guarantees nothing.
But the plastics are good
Thoughts and opinions welcomed. "Run away" -- "You're an idiot if you pay more than $XX for that piece" -- "Don't even THINK about it"
Pictures below - may involve a second/third page
I have a 2004 Yamaha Bear Tracker in the shop for repair. I have the service manual but it doesn't have all the information I need to fix the problem. I need to know the voltage output of the stator charge coil and pulse or trigger coil at cranking speed. The wiring diagram color code doesn't seem to match and that is compounded by the fact that the wiring harness CDI connector is missing so I have 7 wires that need to be connected to the CDI. I can not find a circuit diagram of the CDI which tells me where the pulse/trigger coil connects or the charge coil connects. The other 3 wires (black ground, orange ignition coil, and r/b ignition kill sw) also need to be connected. The CDI has a single 8 pin connector and has a P/N 4XE-00 F8T19871 -1122 number on it and I believe it to be OEM. However I think the Stator and pulse coil are aftermarket items. I have resistance tested everything and it all seems to be in spec. but I don't want to miss wire anything and cause damage. Any help would be greatly appreciated.
I started this project a while ago.. I have decided to make one thread I can continuously update..
So , here we go. I got this Raptor 80 in really bad condition.. Rear end frozen, Engine toast, tires dry rotted, tons of rust..etc.. They admitted they beat on it very hard.
Since they do not make these with a drive shaft anymore I decided to restore it from top to bottom..
These are photos of when I got it home.
Next up, the tear down..
First, I needed to tear it down and determine if the rear end was still good... As we all know... That is where it would be cost prohibitive to restore if it is trashed..
Got it completely stripped down and I lucked out... The rear Drum brake was caked solid inside with dried mud. That was causing the rear end to lock up. Took off the rear brakes and the rear end spun perfectly smooth.
Once I got it all stripped apart I needed to take the finish off all the parts. I am going to be powder coating the frame and many parts.. Once the finish is off each part it will need to be sandblasted to white metal .. The guy I use for powder coating gives me a hefty discount if I bring the parts to him ready to go.
You could just sand blast, but that would take a long time to get the finish off. First I used Aircraft Paint Remover.. That stuff is pretty toxic Goggles and Resperator are required. That quickly gets you down to the metal... Then you can sand blast to white metal pretty quickly...
I had another thread I had started about a problem with the tear down... It has some great info .... here is the link... It is about removing the frame bushings. ....
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By Zacharia Maisonneuve
i have a 1993 timberwolf yamaha and the compression is good and lights work but for some reason the electricity is not going to the spark plug(s)! i got a friend to check it out and they said its no use but im not giving up! please help with this!
By Connor Tuftin
I have a 1988 300 Honda FourTrax, All wheel drive.
My brother and I were fixing up this quad. We put a brand new battery and fuses in and it was running fine until we put the quad into reverse. As soon as it was put into reverse all of the electrical cut out and power wasn't making it to the head unit anymore and both of the brand new fuses popped. We figured there might have been a short from the starter or solenoids, but they are all working properly. At this point we don't know where to start looking for where the short could be. I'm just wondering if anybody has had the same issue or knows of similar issues that could cause these electrical shorts?
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