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By Ben Lennon
Hi guys new to this forum and thought I’d jump on as I’ve just bought my first quad a Kawasaki bayou klf300c 89 model. It had starting issues when I bought it so I’ve gone thru and replaced the cdi, voltage regulator and starter solenoid aswell as rebuilt the starter motor after all this it was still free spinning on electric start so I pulled the stator cover off to find the fly wheel wasn’t spinning so replaced the one way clutch bearing put it all back together and still not engaging at all. I’m at a loss and looking for some ideas on we’re to look next to solve the problem
cheers Ben 👍
By Adrian Ciotinga
I recently picked up an ‘07 KFX 700. All was going well, rode it about 40 miles, when it started bogging at low speeds. If I kept the revs higher, I was just fine. Also, a persistent issue since I picked it up is the fairly difficult start (but it is abnormally cold right now and the quad is jetted for the dunes at summertime).
Regarding the complete lack of idle, I have to rev it a couple times to get it to idle after starting it, after which it’s 50/50 whether it remains idling. I don’t have low fuel, but all of this began after I rode it pretty hard and the radiator fan kicked in. Might be overheating, just wanted to hear your opinions.
ok help so according the service manual, Idle Air Mix Screw (aka Pilot screw) should be initially set to 2.5 turns out from fully seated.
If I do that the motor doesn't want to start or stay running...right now the pilot screw is probably somewhere near 5 turns out....I'll take the carb off tomorrow to count to know for sure.
mind you the carb got a new float seat,float needle and various other components in the kit.
To get the motor running I hard to turn the pilot screw out quite a bit, and turned the idle speed screw in quite a bit...I didn't hook up an inductive tach to know what it is idling at, but does sound about right.
What should the idle speed adjustment screw initially be set at (the one that has the black cable sheath with a knob you can twist easily)?
Is there a special tool to turn the idle/pilot mix screw whilst the carb is on the running motor? I am using a slotted screw driver bit (normally goes into a driver) by hand..makes it hard to turn the driver and hard to tell how many turns .
By Nate Hanson
I am a new atv owner...I bought a used atv this summer (pretty sure it is a wolverine but reg card from last owner didnt actually say that so idk for sure). It ran great for most the summer and early fall but one day I tried starting it and it turned over a while without starting and then suddenly it quit turning over at all. No click or anything.
I charged battery and light turns on showing neutral and heatlight can go on.
A few other things that may be pertinent: The pull start is missing, I have a fluke multimeter but not many other advanced tools (or relevant experience), there is an extra aftermarket led light attached to front but it doesnt work either... never looked into why since I didnt need it.
I looked for a fuse box and didnt find one.
Please recommend some easier things to try first as I really want to avoid taking it in if I can (having one income and 4 kids can keep out extra cash, plus I want to learn). Pictures would be awesome if possible. Thanks!
By Jay Reddick
Hey guys, need some help with my 2016 Yamaha Kodiak 700 4x4. Was riding and it started smoking below the air box and then Caught fire. We got the fire put out quickly with a fire extinguisher. Many of the wires below the air box got damaged. I purchased a new wiring harness for the atv and replaced that as well as any other damaged cables or parts that burned up where the fire was. I also replaced the regulator, the ECU, and the starter solenoid. I also replaced the stater since some of the cables that went to the regulator were damaged. It acts like it will crank but it won’t turn over. The fuel pump initialized when I turn the key so it’s working. I’ve spend $1500 on parts and no luck yet. Any suggestions?
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First thanks for any help guys, new to the forums and it's gotten me this far. I bought a 2001 bear tracker 250 for my family to get around the dirt bikes races. It wasn't running right and had a high idle. Previous owner thought it was a carb problem, so he ordered a new Zoom carb and new intake boot, but it still had the same high idle. ( I believe he had the throttle cable adjusted wrong, because it idled fine when I put it back together) So I tore down and cleaned the stock carb, and it started up and idled fine, but needed to have the choke 1/2 out to run. I swapped to the new zoom carb and had the same issue. Choke half out bike ran ok. I played with the needle and the pilot screw with no change. ( bike did seem to be running rich though, but didn't get better when I tightened pilot screw or raised meddle) I Took it to the races and once I started bouncing around in the cattle fields the quad started cutting out real bad. It would barely run. Sometimes it would run with choke off, sometimes choke 1/2, sometime choke full. I cleaned carb again, checked float level, and boots, no change still wouldn't run. Then suddenly it started running ok again. This makes me believe it's an electrical issue rather then carb. I know there's no air leak, it's been checked, both carbs are clean( I've swapped them out a couple times, it starts up immediately and usually idles fine. But then bogs down/ or stutters under throttle. I saw the post on the guy who disconnected his rectifier and reconnected and suddenly it started working again, which lead me to believe it may be electrical and not carb. So any advice on what I should check? Any way to test the CDI or rectifier? Once again, I appreciate your help.
MY trx has some mods like an full exhaust air filter and an oil filter my lid is on i bought a dyno jet kit stage 2 i read the instructions and changed the main jet supposibly but i didnt change any fuel needel on pilot jet when i turn on the bike its starts immidiatly but starts poopin and crackin on 5th gear when i go fast >>>?? why ...i feel like the bike should get some moore airshould i remove the lid or what??
I know Im detuning but its getting annoying riding with an open airbox. I ordered a closed lid cuz sucking in water is not fun. I have the chain drive apart and im waiting for my 13t front sprocket to come in. That should make up for any torque loss with the closed box right?
My questions are, while I have the carb apart for its winter cleaning do I have to rejet for the closed lid? It already has a Dynojet stage 2 kit in it. Also should I go back to the colder spark plug (DPR8Z). In there already is a DPR9Z
I was looking into learning how to jet a carb since it seems to be a very important part of the atv world! Found a few good pages about jetting and have a question. How would I increase the jet size on a pilot or a main jet? Would I have to buy new jets or is there a certain procedure to do so on the stock jets? Thanks.
P.s: try to lean any replies towards a beginners point of view
I have a 2004 KFX. I am throwing a white bros rd4 slip on for now. I know about the company already lol. I just got a screaming deal on it. My question is this:
From stock, how many jet sizes should I go up to get this thing to run correctly? Everything else is stock, engine wise at least.
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