Quantcast
Jump to content

  • Join Today, It's Simple and FREE!

    As a member, you can post in our forums, upload your photos and videos, use and contribute to our downloads, create your own member page, add your ATV events, and even start your own ATV club to host your own club forum and gallery.  Registration is fast and you can even login with social network accounts to sync your profiles and content.

Guest Goatman

2005 Arctic Cat 400 Axle replacement

Recommended Posts

Guest Goatman

I have a 05 400 cat and did not notice that I had torn a boot untill it was to late. The outer joint is shot. How do the axles come out? Is it a c-clip that has to be removed first or is it a pin type that can be removed with a slide hammer. Love the site. Any help would be greatly appreciated!

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites


If you change one joint , change both on the same shaft. I have done this when helping friends change them out. On a car or truck It I change the entire shaft. Also I would change both because my luck would be to tear it apart 2 days later to change the other joint.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
Guest Goatman

I priced out the shaft online and it looks like for about $200 I can get the entire " Half-Shaft" is what the part is called. Can I assume that this part is both joints and the shaft? Thanks Buck. Is the truck in the picture yours? I also have a 1978 Chev full-size with a 400 horse small block 400 and a 9" lift, lots a fun. I'm not sure why but if I can't get it stuck, I don't think I am trying hard enough!

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites


Join the conversation

You can post now and register later. If you have an account, sign in now to post with your account.
Note: Your post will require moderator approval before it will be visible.

Guest
Reply to this topic...

×   Pasted as rich text.   Paste as plain text instead

  Only 75 emoji are allowed.

×   Your link has been automatically embedded.   Display as a link instead

×   Your previous content has been restored.   Clear editor

×   You cannot paste images directly. Upload or insert images from URL.


  • Similar Topics

    • By Admin
      As a manufacturer of CV axles for ATVs, UTVs and side-by-sides, TrakMotive has announced the release of 42 new part numbers covering 486 fitment applications for 205 models from Arctic Cat, Can-Am, Kymco, Polaris and Yamaha. Available in both OE replacement and heavy-duty versions, these axles are now in stock and ready to ship. TrakMotive says it is committed to offering the largest selection of CV axles in the industry while bringing new applications to the market.
      TrakMotive CV Axles for ATVs, UTVs and side-by-sides exceed OEM quality in fit, form and function, come fully assembled with all necessary hardware included for easy installation with no modifications required and include a one-year limited warranty, according to the company.

      TrakMotive CV Axles are available from authorized TrakMotive dealers and distributors. To contact TrakMotive, visit trakmotive.com or call 800-567-1608.
      https://www.autopartsforum.com/topic/92-trakmotive-introduces-42-new-cv-axles-for-atvutv-applications/
    • By Roy Anderson
      I have a 2002 Suzuki LT-F500F, and am a first time atv  owner. I rode two wheel bikes for many years, and now, two months in to being a new at owner, am just not enamored with the thumb throttle, and I’m wondering if anyone has tried a conversion to a typical twist grip throttle as found on all motorcycles? If so, how do you like it?
    • By TheFieldJournal
      Hey Guys, 
      I picked up my first ever ATV on friday. It's an 89 Big Bear. It has some cosmetic issues, but seems pretty decent mechanically. I did have trouble getting the idle tuned to the book spec of 1,300 - 1,500 RPM. I took the carb apart and cleaned it out. Somebody must have lost the spring for the pilot screw, as it's no longer in the carb. Also, I have a dual cable carb, I noticed all the IPL's show the single cable carb, but I see others on youtube had dual cable carbs. When I would adjust my idle speed screw, nothing would happen. I bottomed it out and it didn't seem to make much if any difference. When i pulled the carb apart I saw the screw doesn't even touch the linkage, it's too short. Do the two different versions have different length carb screws? I'm wondering if somebody lost the ordinal, replaced it with the IPL number for a single cable carb which is shorter, and gave up on getting the ATV to idle. If you hold the throttle just a bit to get it to the RPM range listed above, it "idles" great. Any ideas? Or any links to the dual cable IPL?
      Have you guys have good luck with the aftermarket intake boots? Or is this a buy once, cry once deal? I'm guessing the OEM units last longer, but there is a huge price difference. If you have had good luck with aftermarket, where did you get it? My current boot doesn't seem to have any air leaks, but it's encased in JB weld... 
      I'm getting a 9th digit check sum error on the ATV when I put the VIN in. Has anybody seen this before on a Yamaha? The VIN  number looks original as well as the paint around it. 
       
      Thanks, 
       
      Scott
       
       
    • By Frank Angerano
      So I’m always looking around on different types of pages on atv’s and new mods etc. lately I’ve been seeing a lot of this radiator mount super high up on the front end.  Some have integrated the snorkel into it as well.  Personally I’m not a fan but wondering what’s everyone’s thoughts on the way it looks? 
       



  • Similar Tagged Content

    • By Mo Salem
      So my front hub broke, I’d like to put aftermarket on. Hard to find new oe ones. Please help. I’m new to all of this, I have some car knowledge and try to apply it
    • By oxidized_black
      tag : zukifreak
       
       
       
    • By LMI
      Was using the quad the other day to shuttle wood from my pickup to my wood pile.  When the job was done I turned off the Quad and heard a bit of a racket from the front end.  When I got down underneath the sound seemed to be coming from the fan housing.  fan was moving in spurts and not quickly... much like a computer case fan that's had it's day.  What I know.
      Temp sensor is ok, as the fan tries to activate fan is getting some voltage as it is attempting to spin.  When I first bought it used I tested the fan direct to battery and it was fine. The fan was working ok even not direct wired as I went on a couple of rides and when stopped and idling the fan did run Seems to be free spinning with my finger read up in the manual and they require me to drop the rad.  now I'm not opposed to that as the rad has some damaged areas I want to try and straighten out.  But if I can get the fan working without, I can leave the rad as it is until next year.
      Fan assembly is about 300 bills, any work arounds or alternatives?  I even thought large computer case brushless fan.  smaller ones are about $7 larger ones better quality probably far below the 300.  They run standard 12v DC.
      Anything I should be doing before dropping the rad... other than check for obstructions even though it seems to spin, and trying to hardwire it to the battery again for a test to see if it acts the same?
    • Guest Fox300exchic
      By Guest Fox300exchic
      The Hop-Up: You may be saying to yourself, “that’s a chick bike,” and you’re right. But honestly, it’s so much more than that. It’s one badass bike. http://www.quadmagazine.com/quad/features/article/0,24942,1587044,00.html
    • By gregj49
      Blows out black smoke when you rev it up how do you adjust the carb?
  • Recently Browsing   0 members

    No registered users viewing this page.


×
×
  • Create New...