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JamesD

1994 Kawasaki Bayou 300 ignition problem.

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Yup, Ive found corroded connectors to be a problem many times, even in microwave ovens. You can bet there are thousands of microwave ovens tossed into landfills every year, as a result of bad connections. I

fought a stubborn oven for weeks, until I re-crimped the connectors. Works better than new ever since. We check continuity through all available connectors. We got a measurable voltage out of the p.u. coil a few days ago, then my buddy took it for a short ride, and it quit. Now, no voltage across the p.u. coil leads on both digital and analog meters. Thanks again for your info.

Dave, too.

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I would think that if the direct resistance of the pulsar coil reads within tolerance, the problem would not be with there, but maybe in the CDI, or the wiring in between.

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I would think that if the direct resistance of the pulsar coil reads within tolerance, the problem would not be with there, but maybe in the CDI, or the wiring in between.

When I explained the problem to my EE son, he suggested that the pickup coil may check out okay, during static tests, but fail when tested dynamically, due to an internal short. I just ordered a new p.u. coil, tonight, so Ill let you know in about a week, whether it works or not.

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That makes sense, alot of tests are not conclusive as to whether the part is good, even if it passes the test, but if you get a bad test you know it's bad. I also suppose if you have voltage at one end of the pickup, but it does not pass through, it is only logical to conclude that the pickup is bad, or the air gap is off (if it is even adjustable). Anyhow, good luck, I hope that solves your problem, a pulsar coil is much less expensive than a CDI.

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Yup, if the new p.u. coil doesnt (strange that the apostrophes dont work on this site????), then its on to the the CDI. We checked all of the combinations of resistances in the CDI, as per the values found in a table in a Clymer manual. Supposedly, those values were all in KΩ, but we measured many in MΩ, so dont know if Clymer is wrong, or if the CDI is toast. We are determined to get this sucker running. Ive learned that some electrolytic capacitors last only 8 - 10 years, so suspect this is what happens to CDIs. Ive brought power supplies in VCRs, etc. back to life by replacing the e-caps, so I know it works.

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DirtDemon

I suppose thaat a component could test good under certain test and fail under others.

I seen this many times in the electronics field that i worked In for years.

I have also seen were they would fail as they reach a certain temperature.

The p/u coil being inside the engine is a good example. I bet if its tested again cold it would show voltage.

Also being a older bike it might have metal fragments built up around the magnet.

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DirtDemon

I suppose thaat a component could test good under certain test and fail under others.

I seen this many times in the electronics field that i worked In for years.

I have also seen were they would fail as they reach a certain temperature.

The p/u coil being inside the engine is a good example. I bet if its tested again cold it would show voltage.

Also being a older bike it might have metal fragments built up around the magnet.

In our case we removed and made sure there was no swarf on the magnet and checked it cold. Still no voltage.

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DirtDemon

I suppose thaat a component could test good under certain test and fail under others.

I seen this many times in the electronics field that i worked In for years.

I have also seen were they would fail as they reach a certain temperature.

The p/u coil being inside the engine is a good example. I bet if its tested again cold it would show voltage.

Also being a older bike it might have metal fragments built up around the magnet.

That is the unfortunate nature of electronic components. They may act and test fine one minute, and just stop working completely the next. I all know too well that chasing an electrical problem can be like chasing a ghost. I once had a car that would not charge the battery, it would run, the alternator was putting out the correct voltage, the battery was good. I could jump start it, and it would run until I shut it off, then nothing. Turned out my battery cables were shot. Replaced the cables and everything was fine from then on.

BTW, Atvertoo, I have no problem with my apostrophes, they's workin' just fine for me. Maybe it's your keyboard.

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Well guys it sounds like we are getting everybody elses bike going, but we havent heard from JamesD.

He probably decided the HELL with this and took it to the KAW. shop.

I know one thing I would try anything to keep from replacing that HIGH DOLLAR CDI unit.

The weather has warmed up here in Illinois and my bike is running great So I am going with temperature sensative CDI box.

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Dirt Demon, Thought I would post an update of what I found out about my 2000 Bayou.

As I stated before earlier about the theory of temperature sensative CDI box.

Well that theory has turned into a provin fact. For me to start my bike I need to warm the the CDI with a heat gun and the bike will fire right up otherwise it just sparks when you let off the the starter button. That tells me that it has a bad solder joint on the printed circut board that is sealed in silicone.

dave

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Just an update on progress (or not) on the 1988 220 Bayou we are working on. Got a new pickup coil, and installed... still no output from the CDI, so we have ordered a new one ($240, yikes!).

I cut open the old CDI and found that after inserting the PCB inside the plastic container, the manufacturer filled the rest of the cavity with large grained sand and black rubber. With a heat gun I was able to remove enough of the rubber to reveal the bottom of the circuit board. Looks like the circuit was a bit more involved than I thought, as I can see solder points for at least one IC chip... so I gave up.

Will post again after new CDI arrives.

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Atvertoo, Sounds like you got a hell of a buy for $240. were did you get it at?

Kaw dealer told me they were $380 dollars.

I am going to do some experimenting by using a CDI unti off of a older Ford pickup truck.

A mechanic friend of mine seems to think that it will work since the trigger voltage is the same as on the bike.

Will post my results.

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Atvertoo, Sounds like you got a hell of a buy for $240. were did you get it at?

Kaw dealer told me they were $380 dollars.

I am going to do some experimenting by using a CDI unti off of a older Ford pickup truck.

A mechanic friend of mine seems to think that it will work since the trigger voltage is the same as on the bike.

Will post my results.

I ordered the CDI from atvworks.com. The price was actually $230, while cheapcycleparts.com had the unit for $10 more. I found a CDI kit for about $20. It was touted to be useable on small gas engines, and I thought it might be acceptable for the Bayou, but after seeing the circuit board in the old one, I decided to get an original one.

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I believe I would of tried that kit anyway as long as it will take minimum trigger voltage to fire the coil.

I am trying to find out if the CDI unit advances timing electronicaly since it dont have a mechanical advanced. If it dont then the Ford CDI unit will work.

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kf9nb - The CDI controlls the timing curve, so I don't think a unit from a Ford will work too well unless it happens to have a similar timing curve, and I would be willing to bet that it doesn't. Also, you mentioned that you get spark when you let off the start button, I know for a fact that a bad pickup coil will cause the same problem. I can't remember if you have replaced yours or not, but it would be cheaper than a CDI. Although the fact that your machine starts if you heat the CDI, does not relate to the pickup coil so... I just thought I would point out that a bad pickup will do that. A dealer is always going to have higher prices than online stores, dealer markup is usually around 30% or so. I always buy any remotely expensive O.E.M. parts from Servive Honda or Babbits Online myself.

Anyhow, good luck to both of you guys, hope you can get your machines up and running soon. Thanks for checking in and keeping us up to date.

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kf9nb - Also, you mentioned that you get spark when you let off the start button, I know for a fact that a bad pickup coil will cause the same problem. I can't remember if you have replaced yours or not, but it would be cheaper than a CDI.

We have the same symptom... only sparks when the start button is hit and again on let-off; nothing in between. Since we have put in a new pickup coil and got the same symptom, we think CDI.

Have not heard from the supplier after ordering, so now I am scared that the CDI sits at some Japanese warehouse under several feet of mud and debris. Terrible tragedy for the people there.

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No doubt, what happened over there is just awful. I would think that there is a warehouse full of parts right here in the states. I don't think it should have to be shipped from Japan. I am guessing that it is his CDI since he said it would start if he heated it up. I just though I would point that out, it would be nice if he only had to buy a pickup instead of a CDI.

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Installed new CDI in 1988 Bayou 220, today. Checked for spark, and it looked good. Screwed plug in, primed a couple times, and it fired right up. Whew! That was a relief!

Hooked up original pickup coil, and it started, again. Anyone need a new pickup coil that is proven to be good?

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Dirt Demon, since the temp has warmed up here in Illinois, my bayou fires right up without warming the CDI unit with a heat gun. So that pretty well rules out pickup coil.

Do you know what the RPM range is that actually starts to advance the timing?

I am still going to try a Ford CDI unit it just mite work if it dont all it would do is make the bike run retarded.

Dave

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I am having the same issues as original poster. Can someone tell me how to get to the pickup coil? Do I just remove the cover on the left side? I want to check the connectors. Thanks.

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I have a problem with my 1989 300 bayou 2 wheel drive , i am getting no spark, i have changed the cdi box, the regulator the spark coil, added a secondary ground to block, and i still dont have spark , any suggestions ?

 

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I need help, I have a 1989 bayou 300, 2x4 it has no spark, I changed the cdi box the coil and spark plug also the regulator,  and added another block ground, and I still don't have any spark, should I pull the stator or does that have anything to do with it?

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The  problem could be in the stator or the pick up coil.  The regulator  shouldn't have  had anything to do  with the lack of spark.

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The  stator  and the  pick up  coil  or  just the  stator ?

The  stator  and pickup  coil  together produce  the  power and  pulse to  fire the  CDI  and  coil.

The stator  produces  the electricity  to  run the  machine  and  all its components and  accessories.  The pickup coil creates a  pulse  to trigger the  CDI  box at the  proper  point in the  cycle to  fire the  spark  coil.

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