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Cool mornings here (high 50's -mid 60's). The '02 300 Bayou has a replacement Chinese Carb that starts first or second hit at temps over 75 or so. It wont start in the cool mornings. Choke at any position, Throttle positions, turning over with the compression relief open a few turns, grinding for 20-30 secs, None helps. Temp goes up, NO Problem. Ideas?
I have a 2003 Kodiak 450 that i purchased a while back with around 300 hours on it. It has never ran right from the beginning. Initially i thought it was just a carburetor issue because it was all clogged up from sitting for months. It has been cleaned, rebuilt, and taken off probably about 10 times troubleshooting this problem. I have quadruple checked everything including float height ect and it is set correctly, the jets are also brand new, needle and seat have been pressure tested as well. So after all of that I am convinced that the carburetor is not the culprit. I have an issue where the idle is very choppy, almost as if it is misfiring with a rich condition on top of that. I can use a brand new plug and run the machine for just a few minutes and it will be a dry and and coated in black carbon build up. The exhaust also has a strong smell at idle. I had trouble restarting it when hot for a while, but i adjusted the valves and it seemed to solve that issue. They were both way out of tolerance (tight). The weird thing is, outside of idle it seems to run pretty well.
So with all that being said I have ruled out the carb/valves/compression and moved on to the ignition and this is where i have a few questions about factory specifications. I guess the main question I have is, how strict are these tolerances? And could them being off by this amount cause the issue I am having? Do all three of these parts really need to be replaced? I would like to know before I spend the money on these new parts, and it not fix my problem. Below I will list what the specs were in the service manual along with the reading i got. This is my first experience testing ignition components. I just found it odd that all 3 are out of spec according to the service manual.
Spark plug cap resistance: 10 kΩ at 20 °C (68 °F)
My Reading: 8.90 kΩ
Primary coil resistance: 0.18 ~ 0.28 Ω at 20 °C (68 °F)
My Reading: Fluctuated between 0.4 - 0.5 Ω
Secondary coil resistance: 6.32 ~ 9.48 kΩ at 20 °C (68 °F)
Reading was within the specified range.
Pickup coil resistance: 459 ~ 561 Ω at 20 °C (68 °F)
Reading was within specified range.
Rotor rotation direction sensing coil resistance: 0.085 ~ 0.105 Ω at 20 °C (68 °F)
My reading was 0.3 Ω
I am looking to see why my 2005 Grizzly 660 won't crank. I have set the valves but suspect a loose timing chain.
When working to remove the valve cover I found a "cap tensioner case" - parts #25 - #299 on Babbitts site.
The cover seems to bridge the valve cover and the cylinder head. What the hell is it and what surprises will I find if I remove it?
Uncharted territory for me.
I bought a "project" Grizzly 660, I think it has been a few people's project. The PO had it for a while and did not have time to work on it. He said the battery was good, but I don't know how he knew because the display was blank, no lights and won't crank or run.
I found a nest under the front cover, by the CVT inlet, a chewed thru wire and a few more without insulation. Rewired those from the connector (black 3 wire to the display) and replaced the fuse as suggested by a search from this site. That got the display working and power to other circuits.
I replaced the aftermarket start switch with a used OEM switch from eBay. Then it would crank a little, and started once for a few seconds.
I'm a small engine mechanic - mowers, snow blowers, etc. In my small engine work I have had a number of rider mowers that would crank about a half turn and then stop. The owners have suspected a bad battery and changed it with no improvement. Setting the valves to spec usually fixed this.
I set the valves on the Grizzly without solving the crank problem. I wonder if the timing chain could be off - slipped a tooth.
I don't know any way to check for this without pulling the head and looking at the timing marks on the cam gear.
Is there another way to check for proper timing?
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