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So last year wen i was trail riding on my 84 250r, the cdi went to he'll.. So last week i bought the identical 1 for it on ebay. Well 2day i installed the cdi, started her up. BUT....... the motor started to wind out. so i hit the kill switch, and the motor kept running, so i shut fuel off to kill motor. So if any one sees a problem here,let me know.. :mad:

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Over-revving 2 strokes are often caused by an air leak. This causes a lean burn condition. Start with intake manifolds or boots, then base gasket, crank seals..

Search the net for "leak down testing".

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well.... went to kick the 250r ovr. found i have no compression. took apart top end, looks like ill b replacing piston AGAIN:aargh::realmad::confused::skeptic:

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i had a an 1985 yamaha 125 that had a cracked case and it did the same thing because it was sucking air... sometimes it wouldnt shut off with the kill switch either. A stethescope is a nice tool to help find air leeks. Yamaha sells a nice RTV silicone that works to seal air leaks until the repairs can be made, but isn't meant for a permanent fix.

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After you replace that piston, make sure you do a leakdown test like MWKE recommended. Air leaks can lead to quick devastation. Also, when you replace one ignition component without replacing the rest, you probably need to adjust the timing. Or, you could just put a CR 500 motor in it.:yes::yes::yes:

Edited by DirtDemon

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had 1 uv my buddies say it wast running off lower half uv motor and it was running off uv crank case oil.... Make sense?? it was smokin like an s.o.b..

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If you have a bad tranny side crank seal, the motor will suck oil in to the crankcase. If the stator side seal is bad, then you will have an air leak. You will probably need to replace both seals and check the crank bearings and journals too, a sloppy crankshaft could have caused the seals to go bad creating an air leak and thus burning up your top-end.

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thanks. had my buddie that owns a atv business order up all new gaskets. hope that will cure problem.

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I dont believe I have ever had the New 81 R I used to have open and Since then I dont believe I have seen one opened up.....However,,,,,I thought all you had to do to time these bikes was to advance or Retard the stator....There should be 3 hash marks on the plate right???

Please Correct me if Im wrong,,,Ive never seen a timing light used on a Trike before....

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Yes, you are wrong. It says in my manual to use timing light. How else would you check it by sound? The timing sounds good...Duhhh

Saul from airfools cryed the same, 3wheelerworld cryed, 3wheelerorg cryed, I don't care what these geeks say. Like I want to sit on the computer to hear some tweekers mouth going off. I could be in the garage.

Wow,,,,,Sounds like everyone but you is wrong....

Scan your manual and show me.......

Im looking right at mine....Nothing is mentioned about a light......

One more thing.....Keep the language here PG-13 like your age....Or if you want to talk trash take it to the G-Spot.....

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Unfortunately, he is sort of right. A timing light is the only sure fire way to check timing on any motor. On certain machines, if the CDI, stator and coil are not all part of a matched set, it can affect timing, and should be checked with a light. If you know you have a matched set, you can usually count on the marks scribed in the stator plate, but a light is the only way to be sure.

Also, TrikeMaster, there is no need to be inflamatory here, this is a friendly forum, so please cool it down a bit. You can correct somebody without acting like a douche in the process.

Edited by DirtDemon

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Never in my adult life have I ever seen anyone time any bike with a light, including me...

Like I have said before....Please scan me a Manual where it says you must use a light to time it.

I pulled my 1986 Tri-Z Manual off the Shelf......Looked up the timing procedure and this is what it says....

Ztiming.jpg

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That is the procedure for adjusting the timing. If there is any error made in the process, or the guage is out of calibration it could result in an incorrect adjustment. Therefore it is best to check the timing with a light before and after the adjustment is made. Here is what my manual for says for checking the timing on a CR 500. The same process is described for adjustment as you have specified in your manual, but mine says to check the timing with a tach and timing light.

IMG00008-20091219-1952.jpg

Edited by DirtDemon

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I have actually had vehicles run worse because I timed them with a light, as a motor wears, mods are made or other conditions change, the optimal timing changes a bit. So, that being said, a good ear is sometimes really a better way to time an engine than by setting the timing according to the manufacturers recommended settings. But, if you want to know exactly where the timing is, a light is the best way to check it.

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The only reason I brought that up is because I never heard of it until my brothers trike blew up 3 times in a row and we couldn't figure out what was wrong. We had the manual the whole time, but didn't read the fine print...lol It shredded and spit out the Brand New Copper head gasket....lol

It was so funny because we were at the desert and we were so determined to ride we tried using high temp red inplace of the copper head gasket. bought us a whole 15 min. of ride time...lol

15 minutes is 15 minutes, I can't say I wouldn't have tried something just as desperate. I once bolted a spring post back on my clutch center from the back so I could ride the next day. I knew it was a bad idea, I even had a new one ordered up, but my friends were going out and I couldn't stand it. It worked fine all day, but I was constantly worried that it was going to give.

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