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So my parents have not let me get my license yet and I need to get around to gets parts and stuff. Answer: Yamaha CW50 scooter. This is a 2-cycle self-mixing scooter that so far, I am really surprised with the power output and speed. It reaches about 45mph since the speedo has been disconnected and has plenty of power for two riders. Its stupid looking, but with some work and a title and plate, it'll take me around town.. My issue is this: No key. I bought it for $150 from a friend and he bought it from someone for $100 who wired in a switch in place of the ignition. That guy got it form his neighbor who's renter left it behind. The scooter will run with this switch on or off (kill switch on handlebar kills engine) To get it tiled and a plate so its road worthy, I need to get the ignition working either by a replacement key or a new ignition. All wires are cut to the ignition and the switch turned on the power to the signal light switch. Also, the 2-cycle oil was leaking out the carb, through the air filter and onto the scooter. also, it runs great, but its making blue smoke with throttle and the muffler is wet with oil.
(I have new signal lights for it btw) So the issues I have with it summed up:
No key (need new ignition) smokes burnt out headlight- can I replace them with LEDs?
By Chris Abshire
Changed fuel pump, has spark and good compression. Tried a gravity feed trick and still couldnt get it to fire off. But it does try to crank when i spray starter fluid. With pump connected and fuel hose off, it should still pump fuel, correct ? But its not. And i cant find anything online about this bike. Has less than 200 hrs, so barely gets ridden (wifes). New fuel in tank. Any suggestions would help. Thanx....
By Dave Ayoub
Ok i am not quick to jump on a forum and post a question without doing my own part and trying to research and solve the problem myself but I cannot find any definitive information anywhere about my problem. I have a Big Bear 350 that I picked up very cheap which had been sitting in a field for years. I am not new to building wheelers but this one has me beat. After rebuilding top end and replacing the carb it fires right up. The vin has some number worn off from being next to the shifter but from the parts in the clutch i assume it is early since 87 parts seem to be the only ones that match. Thats when the plot thickened.
Reverse works fine but when in the forward gears it would not go past 1st and was hard to get into neutral. ie. a it took a million clicks up to thump into 1 and as many down to find neutral. still never getting past 1st. within minutes i could hear metal screeching and whirling around in the clutch side of the motor. I took the cover off to find that 3 out of the 4 springs on the centrifugal clutch had broken and were shredded. Also the black mechanism that the pawl on shift shaft grabs moves was loose so it wasnt always grab to change the gear on the transmission. I tightened that mech, and replaced the springs assuming it would solve the problem since the gears were not actually changing from the lever and the carrier should obviously not only have 1 spring left.
After putting everything back together it did go into 1st fairly easy but then i again couldnt get it back to N without a million clicks down and couldnt get it to go past 1st. I did one time get it into a higher gear who knows what one but i gained some speed and dropped rpm.
If i jack both the front and the back wheels off the ground and run the motor it becomes much easier to shift and i can get it to run through the gears pretty well. Usually going into N without a huge fight. not perfect but it does hit neutral and roar while spinning the wheels instead of gain rpm and with the power.
I have tried every possible position on the clutch adjustment screw without any noticeable result. I think this could potentially be where my problem lies at this point.
does anyone know if the case is supposed to be threaded? because mine is not. obviously it seems as though it should be since every other bike ive touched has been. i even took the cover off my quadrunner to make sure it wasnt crazy.
when the screw is adjusted and the jam nut tightened the screw will just slide back out since there is no threading in the case. accomplishing nothing.
Does anyone have any insight on any of this? Are my plates stuck, Centrif clutch worn out, case stripped or something else crazy im over looking?
When it comes to adding more power to your ATV, the first thing that usually comes to mind is bolting on a slip-on exhaust. However, that usually means you are also bolting on a lot more noise. HMF do...
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A week ago I could not even get close to starting it. But now I adjusted the valves (exhaust valve was not closed). i got it running but would not run without choke. i adjusted the float because it was to low tried starting it up again and it would not even start. So i went back and looked at the valves and the valve was now open again so i adjusted it and it started right up and ran perfect without choke. So i put it all back together thinking it was ready to go. Started it up and let it run for a little bit. i turned it off and tried starting it again there was NOTHING. took it apart and there was 0 compression and the exhaust valve was open again. I am completely lost need help PLEASE!!!:aargh:
Doing this for the first time on the old 2011 Grizz 700 and have a few q's?
I've found valve clearance specs as such...
Intake 0.09–0.13 mm (0.0035–0.0051 in)
Exhaust 0.16–0.20 mm (0.0063–0.0079 in)
If anyone can confirm that'd be great. I've been told to adjust the valve clearances to the top of the range in anticipation that they will tighten over time. This sound about right?
Are these the only two o-rings I'll need to replace? Both #18s in the schematic...
Yamaha ATV Parts 2011 GRIZZLY 700EPS 4WD HUNTER - YFM7FGPHA CYLINDER HEAD Diagram
And finally, which of those two valve covers are the intake and exhaust?
Also, was wondering about replacing my two gear box oil drain plugs and engine oil plug with the magnetic Gold Plugs. But at a price of $60 I'm wondering if they're actually worth it. Do people regularly find metal bits attached to these plugs?
I have a 1996 King Quad 300 LT-F4WDX ATV
I tried to install a carburetor rebuild kit but there were no instructions and I am unable to find them. Anybody know what the "Pilot Screw" is set at? The engine starts but seems to be flooding- very difficult to get the rpms up and engine acts flooded.
I set the screw to 3 turns from closed. It is called the "Pilot Screw" on exploded views of the carb.
It is a Mikuni BST 31 single carb.
Thanks for any help!
Hope someone can help with this one.
We took our 1984 Honda TRX 200 to the shop and they had it for about 2 weeks before they finally called and said that they had cleaned the carb and changed the battery and that it had started up.
We went and got it and when we got home it would not start so we called them, they said bring it back in, so we did. They called us the next day and said they changed the spark plug, and that it was running. We went and got it again and it ran when we drove it off the truck.
We parked it for about an hour because we were going to get ready to go on a ride. Well, it wouldnt start again.
So we called them and they said the last thing they could do was order a new CDI box and put that on. I decided to just buy it myself, so I didnt have to pay them labor again. We put the new one on today and its still not starting.
Does anyone have any ideas on what we could check to see what in the world is going on with this thing?
Please and Thank you
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