Jump to content

  • Do you own an ATV? Join our Forum!

    As a member, you can post in our forums, upload your photos and videos, use and contribute to our downloads, create your own member page, add your ATV events, and even start your own ATV club to host your own club forum and gallery.  Registration is fast and you can even login with social network accounts to sync your profiles and content.


2005 Kawasaki Brute Force question?

Recommended Posts

Im thinking of buying a 2005 brute force 750 from a co-worker but I dont know if I trust him 100% when he says theres nothing wrong with it he seems like he might be a little shady. Are there any common problems with this machine or anything I should look for, its only got about 1500miles. Is this a good model and year??? Any comments or advice is greatly appreciated as far as pros and cons. Also what would a fair price be for this machine in good condition

Edited by jmeier1981

Share this post

Link to post
Share on other sites


Sounds like an issue of trusting your friend more than the Kawi's rep.....

I'm far from an expert, but I ride with a lot of Kawi's, and the '05's seem to be workhorses.....

I've seen odometers with 8K, 9K, 10K. Some stock, some heavily modded....

Why is the coworker getting rid of the '05?

If anything, do what people do when buying a used car....get a mechanic who is neutral to both of you, and have him/her check out the machine....

Just my .000000000000000000000000000000000002¢

-Tom D

Share this post

Link to post
Share on other sites

Hes not really a friend just a co-worker I saw it posted on the message board in our breakroom. He said he just doesnt ride it so he want to get it out of the garage, but Ive heard from other people here that hes kind of shady, but I honestly dont know a thing about him myself

Share this post

Link to post
Share on other sites

The Brute is a very solid machine. Ask to test ride it, and to see the motor. The motors on 4x4s are usually covered up pretty well. Make sure there is no oil leaking from around the gaskets. Check the oil, make sure it is not milky, that means he sank it. What kind of condition are the plastics in?

I know plenty of people that have bought machines and rode them for a summer and then they sit for years maybe getting it out once a year.

Share this post

Link to post
Share on other sites

I guess I was just wondering if that particular model had any bugs that were common specially since it was the 1st yr for the 750, just seems like anytime a company comes out with something new theres always problems the 1st year its out. Or any pros and cons as far as power, handeling, dependability, and so on

Share this post

Link to post
Share on other sites

I think that was the first year of the 750 Brute Force. You could have got it in a 650 or a 750. I remember people saying that the 750 was an animal. I remember because I have a 700 king quad which is an 05. The 750 Brute Force was easy to loose control on because of the power, and easy to get the front wheel off the ground. That's pretty much what I was told back then and the fact that it was a great machine.

I woudl do a googl search and see if you find threads liek this: HELP! Persistant Problems with Brute Force 750 - Kawasaki Motorcycle Forums

Share this post

Link to post
Share on other sites

i really like the Kawasaki strong machine very dependable...im not sure if they made a 750 with a solid rear axle(SRA), so if it is independent rear suspension i would check the rubber boots on all four axles for any wear, rips, etc.. pretty much everything that was said before is the best way of going at it, make sure u ride it and make sure everything is functional..check the 4x4 on and off switch the diff locker..u will be able to tell if it is locked on because steering it will become more difficult..check fluids..ask him to remove the seat and look under it( u most likely will have to remove the air filter cover)but wen u do all that it should give u a better view of the top of the engine so u can inspect more...last thing would be to check the frame for anything that would look out of the ordinary i.e. bends, cracks in welds and then check the under body..again like u said it does have 1500 miles so expect scratches in the plastics some dings and maybe rust spots..but all in all Kawasaki make very strong machines..how much is he asking for it if u dont mind me asking?

Edited by outlander560

Share this post

Link to post
Share on other sites

Join the conversation

You can post now and register later. If you have an account, sign in now to post with your account.
Note: Your post will require moderator approval before it will be visible.

Reply to this topic...

×   Pasted as rich text.   Paste as plain text instead

  Only 75 emoji are allowed.

×   Your link has been automatically embedded.   Display as a link instead

×   Your previous content has been restored.   Clear editor

×   You cannot paste images directly. Upload or insert images from URL.

  • Similar Topics

    • By Wayne Starz
      I have a 2005 Suzuki Vinson 500cc automatic 4X4. I can only shift it in to park & High gear, it will not go in low or reverse, what's the issue & the fix?
    • By matthew smith
      I have a honda recon 250 that i just bought. the compression is around 90 needs to be rebuilt. im getting into rebuilding it took apart the top end no problem except for the cylinder walls. as shown in the pictures. the way the piston sits in the cylinder is if you were sitting on the wheeler the skirt on the piston is left to right. so the wrist pin is front to back. which is where the two marks are in the cylinder. so that means the connecting rod is making the piston slap the cylinder on the wrist pin side which seems like a weird way for the cylinder to be moving. not natural. now the connecting rod has slight play left to right but not up and down. ive talked to a few people they say it might be the roller bearings in the connecting rod where it meets the crankshaft. but the play it has is not that much. im just looking for some more input before i start splitting the case. 

    • By Justice Owens
      Hey guys, any ideas would be greatly appreciated on this. 
      So it started a few months ago, riding with some buddies and my 400ex all of a sudden lost power. Wouldn't fire, wouldn't sputter. Towed it home, and then it fired right up. It continued this pattern for a week or two, ran perfectly for varying amounts of time, suddenly died, and would start right back up if I waited 20 mins or so.
      Now we get to the next phase... I was dinking with it one day, I think I pulled the carb off and cleaned it out, (not really dirty but just to be sure) and I was trying different fuel screw adjustments. At any rate, I didn't notice much change, except obviously running a little poorer when I had the fuel screw in the wrong place. I took it on a quick ride around the block, and it was just fine. Ran awesome, had lots of power, etc. Then went around the block again and it died on me this time right as I revved it. Ever since then I haven't been able to get it to start. 
      Now when I turn it over, it sputters, fires a touch, but won't start. Ever. I replaced the plug, CDI, and coil, with no change. I do know that it has spark, but I don't know for certain that its big enough. After replacing these with no change I popped the carb off and tried firing it up spraying some either right into the intake. Upon doing so, it revved right up, but obviously there was no carb so it didn't stay running for long. While spraying the ether it seemed to run just like other engines I've tried spraying ether into no popping or backfiring etc. When it fired right up on the ether, I figured I must have a carb issue, so I just bought a whole new carb instead of taking the old one apart for the 800th time. When I put it in, there was no change whatsoever. Still turns over and sputters, but won't fire up.
      I am completely befused, and any input would be graciously accepted. If you read through all that your a trooper, so thanks very much :) 
    • By PKR
      I rebuilt the carb on a 1989 350 Big Bear. This is a Gen 1 carb ( 2 cables running to throttle).
      Quad starts and runs but I have fuel leaking from the air intake.
      Is the float set to high / low?
      Does the needle for the main jet need adjusting? I have it on the center groove ( 2 groves above and 2 groves below).
      All jets are new, float and needle and seat are new.
      Thanks for your help
  • Similar Tagged Content

    • By Michael Aiken
      Where can I find a wiring diagram for my 2005 450 Kodiak. Thanks.
    • By Mo Salem
      So my front hub broke, I’d like to put aftermarket on. Hard to find new oe ones. Please help. I’m new to all of this, I have some car knowledge and try to apply it
    • By oxidized_black
      tag : zukifreak
    • By LMI
      Was using the quad the other day to shuttle wood from my pickup to my wood pile.  When the job was done I turned off the Quad and heard a bit of a racket from the front end.  When I got down underneath the sound seemed to be coming from the fan housing.  fan was moving in spurts and not quickly... much like a computer case fan that's had it's day.  What I know.
      Temp sensor is ok, as the fan tries to activate fan is getting some voltage as it is attempting to spin.  When I first bought it used I tested the fan direct to battery and it was fine. The fan was working ok even not direct wired as I went on a couple of rides and when stopped and idling the fan did run Seems to be free spinning with my finger read up in the manual and they require me to drop the rad.  now I'm not opposed to that as the rad has some damaged areas I want to try and straighten out.  But if I can get the fan working without, I can leave the rad as it is until next year.
      Fan assembly is about 300 bills, any work arounds or alternatives?  I even thought large computer case brushless fan.  smaller ones are about $7 larger ones better quality probably far below the 300.  They run standard 12v DC.
      Anything I should be doing before dropping the rad... other than check for obstructions even though it seems to spin, and trying to hardwire it to the battery again for a test to see if it acts the same?
    • Guest Fox300exchic
      By Guest Fox300exchic
      The Hop-Up: You may be saying to yourself, “that’s a chick bike,” and you’re right. But honestly, it’s so much more than that. It’s one badass bike. http://www.quadmagazine.com/quad/features/article/0,24942,1587044,00.html
  • Recently Browsing   0 members

    No registered users viewing this page.

  • Create New...