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By matthew smith
I have a honda recon 250 that i just bought. the compression is around 90 needs to be rebuilt. im getting into rebuilding it took apart the top end no problem except for the cylinder walls. as shown in the pictures. the way the piston sits in the cylinder is if you were sitting on the wheeler the skirt on the piston is left to right. so the wrist pin is front to back. which is where the two marks are in the cylinder. so that means the connecting rod is making the piston slap the cylinder on the wrist pin side which seems like a weird way for the cylinder to be moving. not natural. now the connecting rod has slight play left to right but not up and down. ive talked to a few people they say it might be the roller bearings in the connecting rod where it meets the crankshaft. but the play it has is not that much. im just looking for some more input before i start splitting the case.
By Justice Owens
Hey guys, any ideas would be greatly appreciated on this.
So it started a few months ago, riding with some buddies and my 400ex all of a sudden lost power. Wouldn't fire, wouldn't sputter. Towed it home, and then it fired right up. It continued this pattern for a week or two, ran perfectly for varying amounts of time, suddenly died, and would start right back up if I waited 20 mins or so.
Now we get to the next phase... I was dinking with it one day, I think I pulled the carb off and cleaned it out, (not really dirty but just to be sure) and I was trying different fuel screw adjustments. At any rate, I didn't notice much change, except obviously running a little poorer when I had the fuel screw in the wrong place. I took it on a quick ride around the block, and it was just fine. Ran awesome, had lots of power, etc. Then went around the block again and it died on me this time right as I revved it. Ever since then I haven't been able to get it to start.
Now when I turn it over, it sputters, fires a touch, but won't start. Ever. I replaced the plug, CDI, and coil, with no change. I do know that it has spark, but I don't know for certain that its big enough. After replacing these with no change I popped the carb off and tried firing it up spraying some either right into the intake. Upon doing so, it revved right up, but obviously there was no carb so it didn't stay running for long. While spraying the ether it seemed to run just like other engines I've tried spraying ether into no popping or backfiring etc. When it fired right up on the ether, I figured I must have a carb issue, so I just bought a whole new carb instead of taking the old one apart for the 800th time. When I put it in, there was no change whatsoever. Still turns over and sputters, but won't fire up.
I am completely befused, and any input would be graciously accepted. If you read through all that your a trooper, so thanks very much :)
I rebuilt the carb on a 1989 350 Big Bear. This is a Gen 1 carb ( 2 cables running to throttle).
Quad starts and runs but I have fuel leaking from the air intake.
Is the float set to high / low?
Does the needle for the main jet need adjusting? I have it on the center groove ( 2 groves above and 2 groves below).
All jets are new, float and needle and seat are new.
Thanks for your help
By Chris Owens
I have an 04 arctic cat 400 fis 4x4 manual changed the centrifugal clutch, changed the clutch discs and adjusted the clutch. When shifted into gear forward or reverse it will leap a little but will not go it was moving with the old centrifugal clutch but it was worn out. Any help would be appriciated
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