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astrodogg71

2006 yamaha raptor 350 electrial testing

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well, i got a 06 350 raptor se and was riding one night and it just shut off so what im asking is can any one tell me how to test the cdi,rectifier,or any other componet test it has no spark and what i did check was power from cdi to coil and none any test would help it is that the bike is 3 years old and solid state parts should last alot longer but everyone knows that it happens any help would be great and yes the fuses are good thanks in advance for your help

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Check the kill switch and key switch. If neither are the problem, I would buy a manual, or at least call a dealer service tech and try to get the testing specs from them.

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Try these tests:

Check the main switch which is located near the headlight I believe. It should be a 2-pin connector, white. Touch the one probe to the brown wire terminal and the other to the red wire terminal. There should be continuity when the switch is in the on position and no continuity when the when the switch is in the off position.

Check the start switch. Trace the wires from the left handlebar to down to the connectors. Disconnect the 6-pin connector. Set the multimeter to ohms of resistance. Touch the one probe to the black wire terminal and the other to the blue/black wire terminal. There should be continuity when the switch is pushed down and no continuity when the when the switch let off.

Check the kill switch, you'll need to remove the front fender. Trace the wires from the left handlebar to down to the connectors. Disconnect the black two-pin connector with brown and red/black wires. Set the multimeter to ohms of resistance. Touch the one probe to the red/white wire terminal and the other to the red/black wire terminal. There should be continuity when the switch is in the off position and no continuity when the when the switch is in the run position.

Check the clutch switch. Trace the wires that come out of the clutch switch and disconnect their two-pin connector. the clutch switch connectors from the clutch switch.

Touch one meter probe to the black/yellow wire and the other to the black wire. There should be continuity when the is pulled in and no continuity when the when the lever is released.

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thanks atv mechanic i tested all the componets you suggested and everything good so far and just a reminder it will crank over but still no spark thanks

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Check to make sure that the spark plug boot is securely connected to the coil wire. I assume you have checked to make sure the plug isn't fouled. Also, check for power at all the switches and components in the ignition system that should have current supplied to them to make sure the power is getting to them.

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most atv go through excessive heat cycle and lack of frequent oil changes elivates engine heat due excessivecarbon in motor this will cause stator assembly and magnetos to prematurely fail I'd check the stator or pick up output first

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ok everyone let me start over i got a 2006 yamaha raptor 350 se it will not start but will crank over has plenty of fuel so i went and bought a new big gun cdi unit and pluged it in and still the same crank but no spark i really could use some good advice on were to start checking i checked the kill switch it is good i dont have power to coil key on or cranking please help i can takeit to the shop but they say they are 2 months behind and 130 hr labor

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If the kill switch is good, and you have no power at the coil, then there is a problem with the connection between the kill switch and the coil. Get out the electrical tester and start at the battery and start checking for continuity between every junction, switch, component and what not. Check your ground wires. Double check that kill switch, with the key on, there should be power at one pole of the kill switch, when you turn the kill switch to on, there should be power at the other pole.

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If the kill switch is good, and you have no power at the coil, then there is a problem with the connection between the kill switch and the coil. Get out the electrical tester and start at the battery and start checking for continuity between every junction, switch, component and what not. Check your ground wires. Double check that kill switch, with the key on, there should be power at one pole of the kill switch, when you turn the kill switch to on, there should be power at the other pole.

I agree, start testing electrical. Attached is a wiring diagram for you.

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well i want to thank everyone but i still can not figure out the problem i put a new cdi on it and nothing so i am going to get rid of it

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I read somewhere in another thread about a "dead-man" switch on these things, you might want to look into that and/or buy a manual before you give up.

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don't stop now!!! i've got the same problem with mine!! we did find a bad pulser coil and replaced, after we had tried the other things (reg/rect, cdi, coil). all check good, but even after replacing the stator and pulser coil still no spark. i've got it in to mechanic, but even he's stumped and doing the wire by wire search. in case you're wondering about the pulser coil, it should read around 500 ohms (+/- 50) from what i found.

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jcole1325 saw your previous post about the fuse. didn't notice one the first time i looked, but will double check and respond back. astrodogg71, appreciate your post, hopefully it'll help both of us.

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well everyone i got it going it was the pulsar/pickupcoil but let me give my 2 cents ok i ordered the pulsar from rm stator these people were great and fast anyway i got pissed when i put the new cdi on then the pulsar still nothing no sparky and i ckd switches i mean all switches spent 80.00 on a manual and still nothing ckd fuses and it was good and here was the problem it was the new pulsar but it was not defective it was the wireing ok my quad has a white/red and a white/blue off the oem pulsar the new pulsar has a red and a white wire both solid common sense would say red to white/red and white to white/blue wrong they were back words it is red to white/blue and white to white/red and that worked so what im saying is mmlj12 reverse your pickupcoil wires and see if that fixes your no spark. and jcole1325 im not saying there isnt a fuse there but i can tell you for sure that there isnt one on my bike but anyways i want to think everyone who tryed to help and now it is time for me to ride once agian thanks

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:yes:

well everyone i got it going it was the pulsar/pickupcoil but let me give my 2 cents ok i ordered the pulsar from rm stator these people were great and fast anyway i got pissed when i put the new cdi on then the pulsar still nothing no sparky and i ckd switches i mean all switches spent 80.00 on a manual and still nothing ckd fuses and it was good and here was the problem it was the new pulsar but it was not defective it was the wireing ok my quad has a white/red and a white/blue off the oem pulsar the new pulsar has a red and a white wire both solid common sense would say red to white/red and white to white/blue wrong they were back words it is red to white/blue and white to white/red and that worked so what im saying is mmlj12 reverse your pickupcoil wires and see if that fixes your no spark. and jcole1325 im not saying there isnt a fuse there but i can tell you for sure that there isnt one on my bike but anyways i want to think everyone who tryed to help and now it is time for me to ride once agian thanks

mmlj12 read this and try it let me know if it worked on your bike

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Now aren't you glad you didn't give up? That is absolutely ridiculous that they didn't coordinate the wire colors, doesn't make any sense at all.

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good deal there astrodogg71!!!!! yeah, replaced the whole stator/coil, so should not be any mixing of connections. jcole1325, couldn't find the fuse, but might be different on 2004. already got the wiring schematic thanks to ATVmechanic. will post results. it's to the point where it has to be something simple, hair out of place type thing.

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well. we're two for two on this posting of problems solved. to recap, was able to crank engine and trace power very well everywhere, but no spark. as it turned out it was the same as astrodogg71 had reported, the wires on the pulser coil were reversed. the twist was that the stator/pulser coil had connector plugs attached, so from the aftermarket supply things are not always the same as oem. it's catching a little backfire, but according to the supplier it may be the stator, the mechanic is going to check carburator before replacing stator at no expense thanks to supplier. the machine has been sitting since may or june. anyway, thanks for the help guys...........

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If the machine has been sitting for that long it is definately a good idea to check that carb before you do anything. Hopefully that is your problem, cleaning a carb is alot cheaper than a new stator.

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On 9/22/2009 at 6:09 AM, ATVmechanic said:

Try these tests:

Check the main switch which is located near the headlight I believe. It should be a 2-pin connector, white. Touch the one probe to the brown wire terminal and the other to the red wire terminal. There should be continuity when the switch is in the on position and no continuity when the when the switch is in the off position.

Check the start switch. Trace the wires from the left handlebar to down to the connectors. Disconnect the 6-pin connector. Set the multimeter to ohms of resistance. Touch the one probe to the black wire terminal and the other to the blue/black wire terminal. There should be continuity when the switch is pushed down and no continuity when the when the switch let off.

Check the kill switch, you'll need to remove the front fender. Trace the wires from the left handlebar to down to the connectors. Disconnect the black two-pin connector with brown and red/black wires. Set the multimeter to ohms of resistance. Touch the one probe to the red/white wire terminal and the other to the red/black wire terminal. There should be continuity when the switch is in the off position and no continuity when the when the switch is in the run position.

Check the clutch switch. Trace the wires that come out of the clutch switch and disconnect their two-pin connector. the clutch switch connectors from the clutch switch.

Touch one meter probe to the black/yellow wire and the other to the black wire. There should be continuity when the is pulled in and no continuity when the when the lever is released.

Solid information thanks

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On 10/1/2009 at 12:31 AM, DirtDemon said:

If the kill switch is good, and you have no power at the coil, then there is a problem with the connection between the kill switch and the coil. Get out the electrical tester and start at the battery and start checking for continuity between every junction, switch, component and what not. Check your ground wires. Double check that kill switch, with the key on, there should be power at one pole of the kill switch, when you turn the kill switch to on, there should be power at the other pole.

I keep blowing the fuse

 

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