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astrodogg71

2006 yamaha raptor 350 electrial testing

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good deal there astrodogg71!!!!! yeah, replaced the whole stator/coil, so should not be any mixing of connections. jcole1325, couldn't find the fuse, but might be different on 2004. already got the wiring schematic thanks to ATVmechanic. will post results. it's to the point where it has to be something simple, hair out of place type thing.

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well. we're two for two on this posting of problems solved. to recap, was able to crank engine and trace power very well everywhere, but no spark. as it turned out it was the same as astrodogg71 had reported, the wires on the pulser coil were reversed. the twist was that the stator/pulser coil had connector plugs attached, so from the aftermarket supply things are not always the same as oem. it's catching a little backfire, but according to the supplier it may be the stator, the mechanic is going to check carburator before replacing stator at no expense thanks to supplier. the machine has been sitting since may or june. anyway, thanks for the help guys...........

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If the machine has been sitting for that long it is definately a good idea to check that carb before you do anything. Hopefully that is your problem, cleaning a carb is alot cheaper than a new stator.

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On 9/22/2009 at 6:09 AM, ATVmechanic said:

Try these tests:

Check the main switch which is located near the headlight I believe. It should be a 2-pin connector, white. Touch the one probe to the brown wire terminal and the other to the red wire terminal. There should be continuity when the switch is in the on position and no continuity when the when the switch is in the off position.

Check the start switch. Trace the wires from the left handlebar to down to the connectors. Disconnect the 6-pin connector. Set the multimeter to ohms of resistance. Touch the one probe to the black wire terminal and the other to the blue/black wire terminal. There should be continuity when the switch is pushed down and no continuity when the when the switch let off.

Check the kill switch, you'll need to remove the front fender. Trace the wires from the left handlebar to down to the connectors. Disconnect the black two-pin connector with brown and red/black wires. Set the multimeter to ohms of resistance. Touch the one probe to the red/white wire terminal and the other to the red/black wire terminal. There should be continuity when the switch is in the off position and no continuity when the when the switch is in the run position.

Check the clutch switch. Trace the wires that come out of the clutch switch and disconnect their two-pin connector. the clutch switch connectors from the clutch switch.

Touch one meter probe to the black/yellow wire and the other to the black wire. There should be continuity when the is pulled in and no continuity when the when the lever is released.

Solid information thanks

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On 10/1/2009 at 12:31 AM, DirtDemon said:

If the kill switch is good, and you have no power at the coil, then there is a problem with the connection between the kill switch and the coil. Get out the electrical tester and start at the battery and start checking for continuity between every junction, switch, component and what not. Check your ground wires. Double check that kill switch, with the key on, there should be power at one pole of the kill switch, when you turn the kill switch to on, there should be power at the other pole.

I keep blowing the fuse

 

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On ‎9‎/‎22‎/‎2009 at 3:09 AM, ATVmechanic said:

Check the start switch. Trace the wires from the left handlebar to down to the connectors. Disconnect the 6-pin connector. Set the multimeter to ohms of resistance. Touch the one probe to the black wire terminal and the other to the blue/black wire terminal. There should be continuity when the switch is pushed down and no continuity when the when the switch let off.

Thanks ATVmechanic for the advice above.   I am having the same problem - no spark.   Concerning the Start Switch - I assume you mean the momentary push button start switch.    I found the 6 pin connector and used a multimeter to measure ohms.   There is infinite resistance (no continuity) whethere I push the switch or not.   But the push button does turn over the quad.   Any ideas as to next step?   Greatly appreciated! 

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