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IndyKWG

1998 Polaris Xplorer 400L Clutch Trouble?

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Hello,

I am having an issue with my 400 xplorer. It will only top out about 25mph. I suspected the belt was slipping so I replaced it. After a full day of riding about 15 to 20 we headed down the road to return home and the belt burnt in to. I had checked allignment and that seemed OK as well. So now I am looking at clutches starting with the primary because it seems to have the most moving parts. First I priced a new one and found a comet clutch for $299. Then I priced a rebuild kit for the current clutch and found one for $199. That seemed high so I priced the pieces I thought would need replaced at bike bandit including the buttons, the spring, and a bushing. Has anyone rebuilt there primary and had any luck? Is there any way to test it before spending any money? I ran the engine with the cover off just to see what i could see. The clutch moves in and out but the whole engine moves too as the rpm increase the engine tourques toward the rear of the machine. Is that natural or could that be part of the problem? I'm looking for someone that has had these issues to give me a little advise. The things runs perfect so if I can figure this out Im in good shape. Thanks Kevin

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I believe those motors are mounted using rubber isolators, so a certain amount of movement will occur. However, if you have a busted mount or isolator, the motor may move more than normal, and that could definately cause problems with the drive belt. I would definately take a good look at all the motor mounts before doing anything else. Also please post the year of the ATV as Outlander asked.

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Its a 98 xplorer 400L. I'll check all the mounts and post back. I'd still be curious on opinions of clutch rebuilds vs replace.

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If it were me, I would just rebuild the stock one unless you have lots of motor mods or plan on mods in the future.

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instead of buying a whole new primary clutch why dont you just buy a new spring and rollers. That should fix the belt slippage problem, and possibly give you more power as well...btw not towards the topic question but have you checked the counterbalancer oil?

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Counterbalancer oil? Don't mean to sound totally stupid but where is it? I guess by this you can take the answer to that to be a no lol.

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lol no problem...it would be an orange or silver nob with a groove in it that allows you to use a flat head on it...it is on the right side of the motor behind the pull start...it wont solve the problem your having but it is something you should check from time to time on a 400L two stroke motor..

So not to change the thread topic completely did you decide what to do with you clutches?

Edited by outlander560

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OH YEAH!, sorry, Yes the lack of oil in the counter balance was the reason I got this quad for such a cheap price. The gears were toast and cost me a fortune. I check that regularly now, not a real easy task but at least every other ride. The clutch, I will check the motor mounts this weekend and take your advise and try to rebuild the current one. I take it you have done this? I found a video on the internet that shows taking one appart with a few home made helper tools. However, the video didn't explain what wear points to look for or give a "parts list" of stuff to replace if your pulling one appart. What would you replace when rebuilding one?

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i have not taken my primary clutch apart...but my best assumption would be that the primary clutch spring is worn causing the belt torun high on the clutches and wear out.... here is a link to all the parts for your clutch...CheapCycleParts.com's 1998 Polaris ATV XPLORER 400 (W98CC38C) Parts List

Edited by outlander560

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I would inspect all of the parts of your clutch and check for obvoius signs of excessive wear. If everything looks to be ok, I would just replace the spring and rollers like Outlander suggested. That is if the problem is not a broken motor mount or isolator. If it does turn out to be a broken mount, then I would fix that first and see how the clutch works, there may be nothing wrong with it at all. As far as advice on what to look for regarding wear points and torque specs and so on, I would strongly recommend buying a manual. I believe a repair manual is a must for anyone who works on thier own machines, no matter how experienced you are, you won't know the wear tolerances, torque specs or other crucial info that applies to a specific machine.

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Got it. There is an adjustable post between the back of the engine and the transmission on the left side under the back clutch cover that keeps the engine from torquing back when you give it the gas. When I had put it all back together i did not adjust this out to keep the engine in line. Now its all solid and works like a champ. Thanks for the replies on this thread.

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I had a feeling that the motor movement was the cause of your problem. Glad to hear you figured it out, have fun with it.

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