Quantcast
Jump to content

  • Join Today, It's Simple and FREE!

    As a member, you can post in our forums, upload your photos and videos, use and contribute to our downloads, create your own member page, add your ATV events, and even start your own ATV club to host your own club forum and gallery.  Registration is fast and you can even login with social network accounts to sync your profiles and content.

Snowverine

1996 350 Wolverine won't start

Recommended Posts

Hello every one, I am new to this forum and need a little help trying to get my 96 Yamaha 350 Wolverine started. I'll start at what I've done. New battery, new starter relay. Checked connections for corrosion, all seem fine. I use it mostly for plowing snow. Use a winch to lift blade. winch works great. I have power at the relay because i can start it with a screw driver if i half to. Neutral light works. Oil pressure light works. The oil pressure light goes out when you press the starter button. But no clicks, nothing. Any help would be greatly appreciated. Thank you

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites


Moved thread to the proper section and retitled it ,so hopefully you will get more help with your problem.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

If you are jumping it at the starter relay, and the starter cranks....I would start by checking your start buttton. Also, you may want to check the nutral safety switch and there's another swith at the handlebar I believe.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

I second Ajmboy's opinion on this matter. I would also inspect all wires in between as well.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Checked the switches, and wires and all seem fine. Handle bar switch is working. Started it with a screw driver, while it was running hit the starter and it ran for a couple seconds, but wouldn't work again. Thought it might be the neutral safety switch. Don't have a wiring diagram to be able to check the switch. The neutral light works properly, don't know if those 2 switches are related. Thanks for the help so far.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites


I'm not too familiar with that model but you might try setting the the parking brake if it has one or pulling in the clutch if it has a manual clutch. By using the screw driver your probably bypassing all the saftey features it has.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Use a multi meter to track down the opening in the circuit. I still suspect the starter switch or neutral safety switch. Trace the path of the starting curcuit from the battery to the starter, you should be able to find the correct wires by following back from the wires that come out of the start button or key switch. The circuit will run through the neutral safety switch at some point so you should be able to find that too. You can test the start button by taking it apart and manually touching the two wires together. If that doesn't work, just keep moving down either wire untill you find the problem.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Join the conversation

You can post now and register later. If you have an account, sign in now to post with your account.
Note: Your post will require moderator approval before it will be visible.

Guest
Reply to this topic...

×   Pasted as rich text.   Paste as plain text instead

  Only 75 emoji are allowed.

×   Your link has been automatically embedded.   Display as a link instead

×   Your previous content has been restored.   Clear editor

×   You cannot paste images directly. Upload or insert images from URL.


  • Similar Topics

    • By Asen_77
      Hi All,
      My name is Asen and I am from Eastern Europe, Bulgaria. Riding a Yamaha Raptor 700R and this is my first Quad wanted for a vey long time :)

       
    • By AimlessMoto
      Hey guys, new here, but haven't found ANY answer to my specific problem on a Suzuki dedicated ATV forum, so here's to hoping!
      I acquired a 95' Quadrunner 250, 4x4, (LT4WD) for practically nothing with no spark. The PO had tossed in a used stator which didn't fix the problem... so I went all routes (though cheaply) to narrow down the initial problem of no spark. 
      Plug, coil, CDI (caltric) and stator w/pickup (caltric) were purchased and installed. And it RAN, but bogged horribly and would not rev past 1/4 throttle. 
      I checked fuel flow, vacuum lines, all the normal stuff, no issues. I decided to check the valves and cam... well, there was one problem. The cam was 1mm under the lowest spec in the manual. So, in-came a new cam, Stage 1 Hotcams... also threw in a new set of shindy valves, lapped them, replaced the valve seals, and the timing chain. 
      Back together again (w/stock airbox and new oiled filter). Now it idles even better, still boggs at 1/4 throttle, but will rev past it if you hold the throttle open for a second. Ahaha... success!
      So I was able to ride it above 1/4 throttle once I had momentum... could shift through the gears, all was good as long as I kept it over 1/2 throttle. Took a long enough ride to break in the cam properly at least so I won't have to worry about that. 
      Now, I start fiddling with the carb. It's clean as a whistle, stock, with stock jets (new replacement Mikuni jets). Same problem. 
       
      I start thinking, maybe this is fuel related and the bike is having an issue transitioning from idle jet to main jet... so I LOWER the needle by raising the clip 1 spot. Now it revvs up in neutral with no bog, but it boggs about the same trying to ride it. So I move the needle down again with the clip on the top slot. Better, but still has a bit of bog at 1/4 throttle. 
      The last bit of advice I got was to ditch the CV carb... so I sprung for a brand new Mikuni VM30-83 round-slide. Bolted it up, blew into the vacuum tube to fill it with fuel (no vacuum port on this one) and she fired right up... but there is still a bit of bog, it's just masked by the fact that I'm not waiting for the vacuum diaphragm to open. 
       
      So I feel like each little step brings me closer, but not perfect. I'm now wondering if this is still in-fact a carb tuning issue (I have some jets I can fiddle with and maybe lean-out the idle jet a little.) OR if the cheap-a** Caltric Stator/Pickup is what's causing these issues. 
       
      I have a 95' KingQuad with 400 miles on it... like new.. runs like a top... I've tried both the stock QR and the Caltric CDI boxes on it, and it revvs up and runs like a champ. 
       
      The only unknowns between the two systems are the carb, and the stator/pickup. My next step in troubleshooting is to rip apart the King Quad and test it's CDI on the Quadrunner... but considering there is no change to how it runs I doubt it will lead to a solution. 
       
      HOWEVER... I tried the stock CDI just recently after running the Caltric this whole time, and the bike runs like garbage. Hardly idles, and won't rev up at all. So, that is my one smoking gun telling me that it's either the pickup coil or the stator itself. 
       
      Has anyone had a problem even CLOSE to this? I can't image the carb would be causing this many issues, especially going to 2 different ones, both with stock jetting to OEM, and exhibiting the identical symptoms... the only change is when different CDI's are plugged in, or when the needle valve leans out the mixture. 
      Also, I checked the piston, rings and bore when I had it apart and they're like-new... no scoring, rings are loose, cylinder is still round and has honing marks still int he bore. Stock piston, stock bore size and it has 160psi compression. Battery is brand new, and I've tried 3 different R/R's, none of which change any symptoms, but slightly vary the charging voltage by .2-.5 of a volt depending on which unit. Also tried a new coil which changed nothing. 
      ANY help would be appreciated. Too much invested to not get it running right. 
    • By Monika Novakov
      1988 Kawasaki 220 Bayou trying to remove generator/ starter 1way clutch cover to be able to replace 1way clutch. All bolts are removed case cover is dripping what oil that remains...but I can't get the cover to come off..what am I missing? Thx in advance.
    • By Nigel Bourn
      I’ve just bought one of these and came here looking for a service manual
      Mine has an air cleaner that I don’t seem to be able to find, it has round ends with square tabs on them, any ideas?
       
    • By JacobSlabach
      got 7 atvs off CL recently for a good price.  one of which is a yamaha warrior.  anyone know where the vin is printed on this bike?  Haha good place to start as I do not know year or size yet.  The former owner says needs exhaust ans and clutch work.  he said it ran fine until the clutch cable broke and then I couldn't get the new cable adjusted right and it would grind gears.  things I see:  clutch cable locked up again, no brakes, carb leaking (green with algae around the bowl and has gelled gas stalagtights on it), aftermarket exhaust melted the airbox so I need something different and a new air box.  I would like the use the current exhaust if I can but I have a feeling its a redneck fix as it looks like there is an ace bandage holding it to the exhaust pipe (its an aftermarket slip-on exhaust), so I'm not sure about that- lets get the bike running first.  also, battery (looks brand new, what a shame) is dead, 0 volts.  Otherwise, bike looks to have not been wrecked, and plastics are ok (it sat outside under a 'tarp' for 3+ years since it was run last).  any tips and advise on where to start first would be awesome as this is my first clutched bike (manual).
      the clutch is my main concern- I've never rode a clutched bike so I dont even know what its supposed to feel like.  lol I'm spoiled on my automatic polaris 
  • Similar Tagged Content

    • By mallen14
      Looking for anybody who can point me towards a free service manual for 1998 Big Bear 350. I found the sticky thread but all the links, from 2012, no longer work. If anybody has one please let me know. Thanks
    • By Barrysquad
      Somehow I lost all of my spark on my 350Big Bear, its a 1990. It ran well for maybe 3 days! Thought it was the carb. Cleaned it 4 times. It was losing power at midrange. Got worse and worse. Finally nothing!
      Are these good coils? I was thinking I could swap?
      2002 Honda-200cc: primary 0.4(ohm-200) secondary 9.0(ohm20k)
      1990 Yamaha-350cc: primary 0.8 secondary 11.0
    • By Ironfist104
      My wolverine has a new carb kit, new battery cranks over and over take it to the point of killing the battery to start sometime.... but it I give a tug on the start rope while I'm cranking it with the starter it fires right up.... any advice?
    • By dboy910
      Ok new to group and new to quads. I picked up a 88 Big Bear for next to nothing but it has issues. The entire high low revers shifter has been removed. All I have is a bar attached to the linkage. I can shift into all three but I would like to replace or get suggestions. I have looked around but there is limited info or pictures on what I would need to buy or where it even mounts. Any pics of what where and how it works would be great. Or direct me to correct thread.
      Thanks
    • By davidwestfall
      looking for direct shift shifting lever that properly fits my 2003 Yamaha warrior 350 and fits my foot the same as a stock 2003 Yamaha warrior 350 shifting lever fits my foot
  • Recently Browsing   0 members

    No registered users viewing this page.


×
×
  • Create New...