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By Dave Ayoub
Ok i am not quick to jump on a forum and post a question without doing my own part and trying to research and solve the problem myself but I cannot find any definitive information anywhere about my problem. I have a Big Bear 350 that I picked up very cheap which had been sitting in a field for years. I am not new to building wheelers but this one has me beat. After rebuilding top end and replacing the carb it fires right up. The vin has some number worn off from being next to the shifter but from the parts in the clutch i assume it is early since 87 parts seem to be the only ones that match. Thats when the plot thickened.
Reverse works fine but when in the forward gears it would not go past 1st and was hard to get into neutral. ie. a it took a million clicks up to thump into 1 and as many down to find neutral. still never getting past 1st. within minutes i could hear metal screeching and whirling around in the clutch side of the motor. I took the cover off to find that 3 out of the 4 springs on the centrifugal clutch had broken and were shredded. Also the black mechanism that the pawl on shift shaft grabs moves was loose so it wasnt always grab to change the gear on the transmission. I tightened that mech, and replaced the springs assuming it would solve the problem since the gears were not actually changing from the lever and the carrier should obviously not only have 1 spring left.
After putting everything back together it did go into 1st fairly easy but then i again couldnt get it back to N without a million clicks down and couldnt get it to go past 1st. I did one time get it into a higher gear who knows what one but i gained some speed and dropped rpm.
If i jack both the front and the back wheels off the ground and run the motor it becomes much easier to shift and i can get it to run through the gears pretty well. Usually going into N without a huge fight. not perfect but it does hit neutral and roar while spinning the wheels instead of gain rpm and with the power.
I have tried every possible position on the clutch adjustment screw without any noticeable result. I think this could potentially be where my problem lies at this point.
does anyone know if the case is supposed to be threaded? because mine is not. obviously it seems as though it should be since every other bike ive touched has been. i even took the cover off my quadrunner to make sure it wasnt crazy.
when the screw is adjusted and the jam nut tightened the screw will just slide back out since there is no threading in the case. accomplishing nothing.
Does anyone have any insight on any of this? Are my plates stuck, Centrif clutch worn out, case stripped or something else crazy im over looking?
On Wednesday, September 18, our ATV was stolen from in front of our house after the locks were cut. This was around 2-3:15 AM.
We realize the likelihood of ever finding the four-wheeler again is slim to none, but we had to try and put the word out there. We have put countless hours in to restoring this Banshee. It was more than just a passion project, it also was our investment for a down payment for our future house. We are devastated and beyond heart-broken. If you see any suspicious postings on Facebook Marketplace, Letgo, Craigslist, etc., or have any other information, please contact us or the Prince William County PD.
*Update* We received a tip last night that it was possibly posted on Facebook Marketplace around 8AM yesterday morning with only pictures of the front and of the back of the ATV. The description only said: PM for more details. This came up in someone’s FB Marketplace feed that has it set for a 50 mile radius from Hartwood, VA. She also has her feed set to automatically translate everything into Spanish, so It could also possibly be posted in Spanish.
WHAT WAS STOLEN:
2004 Yamaha Banshee YFZ 350
White plastics with bright green and pink graphics/stickers
Prince William County, Triangle, Virginia
$500 REWARD FOR INFORMATION LEADING TO RECOVERY. BONUS FOR CONVICTION.
The post Stolen From Our Front Porch – 2004 Yamaha Banshee YFZ 350 appeared first on STOLEN 911.
View the full article
By Chase Cook
I have a 2001 yamaha yfm350x and it has a brand new top end, new carburetor (stopped the leaking problem and is now getting gas to it), new CDI box, new stator, handlebar switches work, off-and-on switch works, new starter solenoid (works), new neutral relay (works), ordered a new Rectifier on its way, good strong blue spark. Has compression, valves are right. Timings is right and is TDC. When I try to start it it just makes a loud popping noise like its backfiring but it's not because its not running when I push the throttle all the way and when i barly push the throttle it try to start but won't, so I'm trying to figure out what could be the problem not starting now, Getting very fustrated with this thing and put some work and money into it and it's not still not working. This is the only atv I ever had that I can not figure out the problem to get running. Need help please..
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Problem: The ATV starts and runs at idle perfectly. But as soon as I open the throttle, the engine starts to slow down until it stops. On the attached video you can hear the sound of how it works: see video below
Prehistory: there is a Polaris Sportsman 500 1998, which for about 1.5 years stood in repair, including also replacing CDI with one taken from the same ATV. Finally, the vehicles were on wheels, traveled several kilometers and overheated - forgot to fill the antifreeze Came back home in small moves. The next trip started well, but after 10 km there was a feeling of a small drop in power (even as the vehicle got warm completely) but still drives. Next trip - the situation is repeated. The next test of ATV through time and a huge loss of power from the very beginning. The engine sneezes, does not want to go more than 5 mph.
What has been done: the carburetor has been replaced with a new one (inexpensive, $ 40), a new spark plug, a new ignition coil, the engine head has been removed, the piston is in good condition, valves were corrected - but the problem was definitely not in them.
Ignition control unit is suspected. Who faced similar? Please help in solving the problem.
Thanks in advance.
in this thread, I want to discuss how 4-cycle atv engines work- what the different types are... how they are set up and which you prefer. To start off, are the cams on ALL atv 4-strokes powered by a cam chain? I know that on say a lawn mower or logsplitter engine, the cam is turned by the tappet, pushrods, and valve rockers. Which is better and why? Chain-driven cams or pushrod-driven cams? Are the pushrods just an old version and everything is transforming to chains or the other way around...or not at all? Just looking for some explanation, history, and downsides/upsides...
By Arctic Snowdog
I have a small Sled Dog business and I train up to 14 Huskies pulling a Yamaha Grizzly 550, that is quite a lot of Horse (Dog) power. Sometimes in order to make the ride smoother for Dogs and us we ride in Neutral but on a few occasions I have noticed that the right hand (front) brake seems to loose pressure and does not brake at all. Is there a particular reason for this ? Is it a fault or is it something to do with us riding in neutral, I only use the ATV in this way a few months a year before the snow comes but I am sure I recall the same thing happening last season.
Any ideas would be greatly appreciated because I am a far way from being a mechanic.....
Have a super day and thank you all.
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