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Hello, i was looking up a few different 4 wheelers tonight and then had a question. I see so many similarities between the ODES 800 Assailant, and CFMOTO 800 Cforce that i have to wonder. Are they the same thing? It looks like they both have turning signals, 2 seater, engine size in common although CFMOTO does a much better job of making theirs look better.
My experience for my 98 sportsman. .keep on mind it has the smaller rear rim so my tire choices are not all that great ...
Best... Goodyear mud terrain. Long lasting awesome all around great tire. No longer available of course
Worst. ...super swamper vampire . Too soft. Ended up on gravel a few times over a few months of winter snow riding. . Burned down from 1.5 inch paddle to 1 inch in no time. Junk. But if you are able to 100% stay in soft terrain they are insane
Current. . Mud lites . Pretty decent. But I miss my Goodyears
Long story short I had to disconnect my right front caliper to do some other work and now that it's all back together I need to refill and bleed that brake line. First time doing this and to the best of my knowledge the only two 'line ends' I'll need to work with are my right handlebar reservoir and the bleed valve on the caliper itself. Considering the caliper I took off are there any other parts on the bike besides these I need to be concerned about?
Now insofar as back bleeding vs. top down bleeding goes...I understand that since bubbles rise, only doing a top down bleed leaves open the possibility of leaving some bubbles in the vertical brake line. But since the bleed valve on the caliper is an inch or more above where the banjo bolt brake fluid lines comes in (on my bike anyway) you would have to do at least some top down bleeding to make sure all the bubbles escape from the caliper out the higher positioned bleed valve. Together these two ideas imply that it might be best to do both some top down and bottom up bleeding. Any thoughts?
Anybody have a somewhat educated idea of how quickly air bubbles rise in the vertical line between the caliper banjo bolt and the handle? If they rise slowly enough seems like it would be possible to bleed the whole thing by doing only a top down.
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I know the piston has to be at TDC, but there is no marks on the cam gear. i kinda figured that when the one bolt is up the cam lobes are down, not touching the rocker arms. i want to know if this is how to do it? someone give me an answer.
I thought I would make a quick "How-to" on setting wheel alignment since I was flipping my tie rod ends and I was going to have to re-align the wheels anyways.
Here's some of the tools you will need...
1.) Start with the ATV on a smooth and level surface, like a cement garage floor or driveway.
2.)Center up (Eyeball It) the handle bars and lock them into place with 2 ratchet straps, one on each side of handle bars. This of course prevents them from moving when your adjusting the tie-rods.
3.) Place two Jack Stands approximately 2 feet in front of the atv even with the outside edge of the two front wheels.
4.) Wrap a length of string all the way around the ATV and Jack Stands, Start and end at the rear hitch. Make sure the string is the same height from the ground on all 4 wheels. I like to attach a few elastic bands to both ends of the string before attaching the string to the hitch. This makes it easier to adjust the strings when moving the Jack Stands.
4.) Break lose the inner and outer tie-rod nuts. NOTE! Make sure you use 2 wrenches, one on the nut and one on the ball joint. Damage can occur by only using one wrench.
5.) Adjust the string by moving the Jack Stands in or out untill the string just touches both of the side surfaces of the rear tires on each side of the ATV. This will take some time to get it right but it needs to be done!
Check manufacturers wheel alignment specifications on your specific make and model before you adjust any components.
For this wheel alignment I'm using the Polaris Specs which seems to be a common setting.
Polaris - The recommended toe alignment is 1/8″ to 1/4″ toe out. This is a total amount, not per wheel.
6.) On the front rim, measure the distance from the string to the rim at the front and rear edges of the rim. The rear measurement should be 1/16″ - 1/8″ (.2 to .3 cm) more than the front measurement.
7.) If an adjustment is necessary, Turn the tie rod itself with a wrench or your hand in small increments. It doesn't take much to move the tire a long way, so go slow. Keep re-checking your measurement's until you have a 1/16″ - 1/8″ differance to the string.
6.) Once your satisfied that you have the correct "Toe Out" measurements you can tighten up the inner and outter tie-rod nuts on both sides. AGAIN...make sure to use 2 wrenches.
7.) Now take your ATV for a test drive to test your adjustments. If it still pulls one way or the other, just repeat the above steps to tweek the adjustments again utill your happy.
The whole process only takes about 15-20 min.
ENSENADA, Mexico--With racers competing in 30 Pro and 6 Sportsman classes for cars, trucks, motorcycles and ATVs, 345 total entries are ready to start the 42nd Annual Tecate SCORE Baaja 1000 desert racein Ensenada, Mexico. Sal Fish’s SCORE International is completing its 36th year as the World’s foremost desert racing sanctioning body and the event is the finale of the five-race 2009 SCORE
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