Quantcast
Jump to content

  • Join Today, It's Simple and FREE!

    As a member, you can post in our forums, upload your photos and videos, use and contribute to our downloads, create your own member page, add your ATV events, and even start your own ATV club to host your own club forum and gallery.  Registration is fast and you can even login with social network accounts to sync your profiles and content.

rushfan34

2000 Kawaski Bayou intake valve lifter assembly

Recommended Posts

Anyone know how to remove the intake valve lifter assembly without completely disassembling the entire motor?

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites


Could you please post the engine size of your Bayou so we can add it to the thread title. You can get to the rocker arms through acces holes underneath cover plates on the front and rear of the head. On the side, there is a round cover that allows you access to the camshaft. I think you can pull the rocker shafts out from behind that cover as well, after that, you should be able to remove the rockers from the holes at the front and rear of the head. It is kind of a pain in the ass that Kawasaki apparently didn't see it necessary to just use a regular valve cover, but you can get to the parts without completely tearing down the motor. I imagine that you will want to remove the fenders and fuel tank to make access easier.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

I have access to the rocker arms through those covers but I can't seem to get it out. The rocker for the intake is very loose even when adjusted down and when the valve rises it slaps the rocker. It's very loud. The exhaust side is good and the thing runs OK. Starts good, idles good, runs good (but slow, good for the wife) but that rocker is slapping bad. I assume this will wear out the valve or the rocker pretty quickly. Would the rocker possibly be broken off inside. It's so damn hard to see inside even with the body and tank off. Really don't want to take the motor out. I'm new to the repair of ATV's (and four strokes) but this think really isn't worth paying to have fixed. In reguards to the cam cover. Is this the timing chain I'm looking at in there? If I remove that to get to the screws behind the sproket that I am assuming are what's holding in the rocker am I gonna have to retime this thing? As for the engine size, hosestly and stupidly I don't know. Bought it off a friend of a friend for next to nothing for my wife as she is new to the ATV world. I'm new to ATV's as well. I've been riding Honda 250 bikes since I was a kid (and road bikes since I was 17). Couldn't teach the wife how to ride a motorcycle so four wheels and an auto clutch was a good choice. No decals left. He said it was a 300 but I really don't think so. It's really got buttkiss for power, and what's up with the worthless 1st and for that matter 2nd gear? Call me dumb but is the size stamped somewhere? I know they made a 220 and a 300 in 2000.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Yes, the cam and probably rocker shaft access should be behind the timing gear. If you put marks on the chain and sprocket before you take it apart, you can line them back up when you put it back together. You need to be sure to not let the chain come off of the crank, or make marks on the chain and sprocket down there for reference when you put it back together.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Thanks man and as for my stupid question about the engine size? If I need a new rocker or cam I'll need to know the engine size. Thanks again for your help.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites


* Added issue to your thread title.

I used to own a 2002 220 Bayou. The 300 was a little bit bigger and was available in 4X4. The 220 was not.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

There should be a number stamped on the motor somewhere, probably on the cylinder, it will indicate the displacement of the motor in cc.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Join the conversation

You can post now and register later. If you have an account, sign in now to post with your account.
Note: Your post will require moderator approval before it will be visible.

Guest
Reply to this topic...

×   Pasted as rich text.   Paste as plain text instead

  Only 75 emoji are allowed.

×   Your link has been automatically embedded.   Display as a link instead

×   Your previous content has been restored.   Clear editor

×   You cannot paste images directly. Upload or insert images from URL.


  • Similar Topics

    • By Ron Boyd
      I was wondering if the complete headlight assembly from a 06 yfz450 would fit my 05 raptor 660r looking for a quick responses I found a set new for 25 bucks and either way dont want to pass up but was qurious.
    • By Brian Simmons
      I have a 2003 Polaris Predator 500 . I know my valves need adjusted . Here recently I`ve had to bump start it . And i noticed a power differents  . Now it won`t bump start . Did i mess anything up ? Or can I still just adjust the valves . By the way does anyone have a video of how to do a valve job on it ? Let me know ASAP !!!??? Thank you 
       
    • By Monika Novakov
      1988 Kawasaki 220 Bayou trying to remove generator/ starter 1way clutch cover to be able to replace 1way clutch. All bolts are removed case cover is dripping what oil that remains...but I can't get the cover to come off..what am I missing? Thx in advance.
    • By PolarisRich
      I've never done this before but after reading a few thread I decided to check my valves for the first time and to my surprise it was much easier than I thought.
      My bike is a 2005 Sp 500 HO.
      I first pulled the seat and the right side panel off, and that's it! It wasn't too bad to get at.
      Next I pulled the spark plug out and removed both the head cover ( 8-8mm bolts)
      [ATTACH]1021[/ATTACH]
      then the side cam cover (5-8mm bolts).
      [ATTACH]1023[/ATTACH]
      Also remove the plug in the recoil cover (14mm bolt) to see the timming marks.
      [ATTACH]1022[/ATTACH]
      Next I turned the engine over with the pull cord untill it was at TDC of the compression stroke.
      The best was to tell that your at TDC of the compression stroke is to rotate the engine until the
      timing marks are parallel to rocker cover gasket surface.
      The cam sprocket locating pin will be facing upward directly in line with the crankshaft to camshaft center line.
      Now fine adjust by looking into the timing hole in the recoil cover and line up the upside down "T" on
      the flywheel into the center of the hole.
      [ATTACH]1023[/ATTACH]
      Now using a feeler gauge, slide the .006" (.15mm)blade between the top of the valve and the bottom of the adjuster and adjust accordingly
      [ATTACH]1024[/ATTACH]
      [ATTACH]1025[/ATTACH]
      To adjust, Loosen the locknut (10mm) and check clearance with a feeler guage. Clearance should be .006" (.15mm) for both, intake and exhaust valves. Turn the adjuster with a stubby flat blade screwdriver untill the proper clearance is achieved then tighten the locknut (5.8-7.2 ft. lbs) while holding the adjuster in place with the screwdriver. Re-check the clearance with the feeler guage one last time and re-assemble the covers (72 in.lbs) and plugs.
      The only thing that i noticed was that I had to clean and silicone the side cam cover other than that I found the whole process rather simple.
      I'd give it a 4 out of 10 on the skill level scale.
      I hope this helps!
      Thanks Rich





    • By reddotshooter03
      Does anyone know what is the proper valve adjustment for a 1986 Honda ATC350X
       
       
      Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
  • Similar Tagged Content

    • By Christian Brindle
      I've already posted here once about this ATV. Lots of people suggested i check the cam and after a couple months i finally got around to attacking it. I got it all apart and got the cam/rockers out. I'm almost positive they need to be replaced, they're pretty scored up and don't look too hot. Just wanted some final opinions before i drop the money on it. I'll also take feedback on the new cam i've chosen.
      Old Cam: 
      New Cam: https://www.amazon.com/hz/wishlist/ls/2GM2J05FQQPCD?ref_=wl_share
      Old Forum: 
       
       
      Thank You.
    • By johnwayne
      i have a 2000 suzuki king quad lt-f300f that i picked up as a project bike. it didnt run well when it was parked outside 5 years ago. it cranked after putting fresh gas - but would not run below half throttle, i took apart the carb, cleaned debris, and re-assembled. i suspect that the pilot needle is sheared off - it never protrudes into the throttle body through the pinhole. now to get the bike to ALMOST idle, the throttle idle adjustment knob is all the way up/in. the pilot needle is turned almost all the way in/up (if i understand correct, it should nominally be out 2 1/4 turns or so). and like i said, it will ALMOST idle. floods easily, rides rough.
      wanted to hear from those more experienced than me with suzukis - and im self-taught atv repair, so dont laugh too hard if my verbiage/part names is way off. 
      facing the driver's side of the bike [US] there are three hoses on this side of the carb. without a service manual or way of knowing what was messed up before i got it, i think i have them right: front hose as a vacuum to the petcock, middle hose as vacuum to the fuel pump, rear hose as fuel line from the fuel pump. running the bike in prime position results in flooding even while riding. with all hoses disconnected from the carb, fuel slowly drips from the vacuum line connected to the petcock.
      so just my speculation is that the diaphragm in the petcock is split, and the pilot needle is broke off - causing my inability to not quite idle and the rough ride. this suzuki is hoses and cables everywhere compared to the honda ranchers and yamaha warriors i am used to. I would like to have a plan rather than: replace everything at once.
      is my speculation on the right track, or could something else be at play? say, if the compression was non-existent, would that cause non-idling? i am all ears, look forward to the input.
    • By skymankila69
      I traded my dirt bike for a 2000 arctic cat 500 semi automatic. when i went to go pick it up the guy said it didn't get spark, so i thought it was going to be something simple like a coil. well it wasn't. first thing i did was take all the plastics off to get easy asses to every thing. so i bought a brand new battery for it seeing if it got power, it didn't. the dash wouldn't light up neither would the lights, so then i tried to see if the starter worked it didn't so i jumped the solenoid and the starter started turning over the motor. so i bought a new starter solenoid, when i installed it the electric start still wouldn't work , so i bought a new kill switch and starter switch that goes on the handle bars, when i installed it, the electric start still wouldn't work. so then i went to see if i could get spark by pull starting it, i didn't get any spark, so i bought a new spark plug, and guess what, still no spark, so then i bought a new coil for it to see if that would fix it. so i installed the new coil and guess what no spark still and still no power to the dash. so to sum it up i'm not getting any power any where to the four wheeler. so i cleaned all the leads and plugs and still nothing. so then yesterday i took the wiring apart to see if their was any frayed wires, and no their wasn't. does any one have any ideas what this could be i'm up for anything. also if any one knows how to bypass all the wiring just to get it to start i open to that to, or if someone knows where  i can get a wiring diagram.
    • By quinnkaeb
      i have recently purchased a yamaha kodiak ultramatic 400cc. it is used and sat outside for a long time. i have done a lot of work on it and got it to run sort of. when i try to start it, it will start and run for a little bit then it will die, the time it runs varies. it has a new cdi, spark plug, and stator. most of the time it wont even start it just cranks over. there was one time that it started up right away and ran perfectly but the next time i tryed it wouldnt start. before that one time every time it started and ran it had a popping sound. i cant figure out why it wont run. any help would be muchly appreciated! thanks!
    • By Junior
      Hey all,
      I'm new to this site and to CanAm/Bombardier atv's. I purchased this quad local to my area and shortly after started noticing a knocking noise from the bottom end, which I've been told may need a rebuild.
      The atv is complete, but I'm now looking to part it out, unless someone knows where I can get the bottom end rebuilt for a decent price.
      I can take some pics of the quad and upload. If you need parts off of it, let me know and make me an offer.
  • Recently Browsing   0 members

    No registered users viewing this page.


×
×
  • Create New...