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so finally got the quad started after the winter, I use a 1987 LT-4WD on my ground for "yard work", today after a very hard start, the choke cable snapped, fixed that (temp), got it running, idle is rough. added some seafoam to the gas to help clean it up.

Hooked up lawn aerator loaded with cynderblocks and the quad would not go. seemed like it was trying, but nothing. reverse worked fine. hi, low, 4wd, no difference. anything forward was no joy.

So, the engine lacks power. pulled the sleds fine over the winter - and before that, now is the only time she wont budge!

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If reverse works fine, then I would think that the engine is not the issue, seems like more of a transmission problem. From what you are describing, it seems like you are trying to start out in too high of a gear. How does the gear shifter work? If the engine were the problem I would say try cleaning the carb. Since it sat for so long, it could be gummed up. Next time you store it, either drain the fuel, or put the Seafoam in before you put it away, it will stabilize the fuel and help to keep it from going bad. Another thing that comes to mind it the clutch, but once again, that seems unlikely since reverse works ok.

I would start with a good carb cleaning, and an oil change.

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thanks, I pulled the carb, and in doing so drpped the choke slide inthe mud...so, ordered a new cable and the rest of the stuff I needed to redo the carb.

Gear selection seems to work, finds N no trouble, the odd thing is when I gas it, it sort of moves but then idles down right away and in N when I rev it goes up but will not stay revved up hi, it bounces around and comes down the idle even with throttle up. So, I am leaning toward carb - the chock slide is not set correctly, since the cable snapped, so I am sure the A/F mix is way off. Tranny should be okay because when it was put away it worked perfectly.

thankds for the help...

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So I rebuilt the carb, idle is good, fires right up, but still having trouble getting it to GO!! and at idle, I cannot GAS it up without it boggin out so I will tinker with pilot screw/float level tomorrow.

what about clutch? it is an automatic - can the shoes/plates make it not engage or slip?

and to correct my previous post, it does the exact same in Reverse as it does in Forward - I can't even back up a small hill without it feeling like it is slipping back to N.

Edited by sfedenia
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A clutch problem could certainly keep the machine from moving. Like the previous poster mentioned, a simple oil change may help that, if that doesn't help, a visual inspection is the next logical step. As far as the bogging when giving it throttle, the pilot screw may help some, but if it doesn't, try moving the clip around on the needle and see what happens if you move it up or down. Also, did you make sure that the main jet was clear.

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  • 1 year later...

i have the exact same atv and mine was hard to start any time until i found out that my valves were sticking i had to send the head off to the machine shop and when i got it back i had it rebuilt and it has ran fine since then. oh and another thing use only the oil the suzuki parts dealers recamend if not u might fry the transmission.

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a few things to check. 1) check the intake manifold between the carb and engine. these can crack and leak air, and cause an extreme air leak when the throttle is opened. they sometimes crack radially, and it will not be apparent without a close inspection. 2) check the fuel pump, AND the pulse line going to the fuel pump. the pulse line can split and leak air, which will result in no fuel pump or very weak fuel pumping. it can also get pinched due to improper routing. or, you may have inadvertently switched vacuum lines when rebuilding the carb. all of these can happen when the carb is removed. please also check for mice nests both in the air box, and at the air intake which is under the shift counsel as mentioned earlier. the last thing i can think of off the top of my head is to replace the spark plug cap. it has a resistor in it, and can go bad over time, which will allow the engine to idle, but will cause weak spark as the throttle opens ( the further the throttle opens, the more compression the engine builds, which increases the resistance to the spark jumping the gap).

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