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Attention! Stolen! From a deployed soldier on independence day! 2014 Honda Foreman 500 and 2003 Yamaha 660 Raptor. Please spread the word in helping find them. A report was filed with Franklin County as well.
The post 2003 Yamaha 660 Raptor and 2014 Honda Foreman 500 appeared first on STOLEN 911.
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I started this project a while ago.. I have decided to make one thread I can continuously update..
So , here we go. I got this Raptor 80 in really bad condition.. Rear end frozen, Engine toast, tires dry rotted, tons of rust..etc.. They admitted they beat on it very hard.
Since they do not make these with a drive shaft anymore I decided to restore it from top to bottom..
These are photos of when I got it home.
Next up, the tear down..
First, I needed to tear it down and determine if the rear end was still good... As we all know... That is where it would be cost prohibitive to restore if it is trashed..
Got it completely stripped down and I lucked out... The rear Drum brake was caked solid inside with dried mud. That was causing the rear end to lock up. Took off the rear brakes and the rear end spun perfectly smooth.
Once I got it all stripped apart I needed to take the finish off all the parts. I am going to be powder coating the frame and many parts.. Once the finish is off each part it will need to be sandblasted to white metal .. The guy I use for powder coating gives me a hefty discount if I bring the parts to him ready to go.
You could just sand blast, but that would take a long time to get the finish off. First I used Aircraft Paint Remover.. That stuff is pretty toxic Goggles and Resperator are required. That quickly gets you down to the metal... Then you can sand blast to white metal pretty quickly...
I had another thread I had started about a problem with the tear down... It has some great info .... here is the link... It is about removing the frame bushings. ....
So my parents have not let me get my license yet and I need to get around to gets parts and stuff. Answer: Yamaha CW50 scooter. This is a 2-cycle self-mixing scooter that so far, I am really surprised with the power output and speed. It reaches about 45mph since the speedo has been disconnected and has plenty of power for two riders. Its stupid looking, but with some work and a title and plate, it'll take me around town.. My issue is this: No key. I bought it for $150 from a friend and he bought it from someone for $100 who wired in a switch in place of the ignition. That guy got it form his neighbor who's renter left it behind. The scooter will run with this switch on or off (kill switch on handlebar kills engine) To get it tiled and a plate so its road worthy, I need to get the ignition working either by a replacement key or a new ignition. All wires are cut to the ignition and the switch turned on the power to the signal light switch. Also, the 2-cycle oil was leaking out the carb, through the air filter and onto the scooter. also, it runs great, but its making blue smoke with throttle and the muffler is wet with oil.
(I have new signal lights for it btw) So the issues I have with it summed up:
No key (need new ignition) smokes burnt out headlight- can I replace them with LEDs?
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By Christian Brindle
I've already posted here once about this ATV. Lots of people suggested i check the cam and after a couple months i finally got around to attacking it. I got it all apart and got the cam/rockers out. I'm almost positive they need to be replaced, they're pretty scored up and don't look too hot. Just wanted some final opinions before i drop the money on it. I'll also take feedback on the new cam i've chosen.
New Cam: https://www.amazon.com/hz/wishlist/ls/2GM2J05FQQPCD?ref_=wl_share
i have a 2000 suzuki king quad lt-f300f that i picked up as a project bike. it didnt run well when it was parked outside 5 years ago. it cranked after putting fresh gas - but would not run below half throttle, i took apart the carb, cleaned debris, and re-assembled. i suspect that the pilot needle is sheared off - it never protrudes into the throttle body through the pinhole. now to get the bike to ALMOST idle, the throttle idle adjustment knob is all the way up/in. the pilot needle is turned almost all the way in/up (if i understand correct, it should nominally be out 2 1/4 turns or so). and like i said, it will ALMOST idle. floods easily, rides rough.
wanted to hear from those more experienced than me with suzukis - and im self-taught atv repair, so dont laugh too hard if my verbiage/part names is way off.
facing the driver's side of the bike [US] there are three hoses on this side of the carb. without a service manual or way of knowing what was messed up before i got it, i think i have them right: front hose as a vacuum to the petcock, middle hose as vacuum to the fuel pump, rear hose as fuel line from the fuel pump. running the bike in prime position results in flooding even while riding. with all hoses disconnected from the carb, fuel slowly drips from the vacuum line connected to the petcock.
so just my speculation is that the diaphragm in the petcock is split, and the pilot needle is broke off - causing my inability to not quite idle and the rough ride. this suzuki is hoses and cables everywhere compared to the honda ranchers and yamaha warriors i am used to. I would like to have a plan rather than: replace everything at once.
is my speculation on the right track, or could something else be at play? say, if the compression was non-existent, would that cause non-idling? i am all ears, look forward to the input.
I traded my dirt bike for a 2000 arctic cat 500 semi automatic. when i went to go pick it up the guy said it didn't get spark, so i thought it was going to be something simple like a coil. well it wasn't. first thing i did was take all the plastics off to get easy asses to every thing. so i bought a brand new battery for it seeing if it got power, it didn't. the dash wouldn't light up neither would the lights, so then i tried to see if the starter worked it didn't so i jumped the solenoid and the starter started turning over the motor. so i bought a new starter solenoid, when i installed it the electric start still wouldn't work , so i bought a new kill switch and starter switch that goes on the handle bars, when i installed it, the electric start still wouldn't work. so then i went to see if i could get spark by pull starting it, i didn't get any spark, so i bought a new spark plug, and guess what, still no spark, so then i bought a new coil for it to see if that would fix it. so i installed the new coil and guess what no spark still and still no power to the dash. so to sum it up i'm not getting any power any where to the four wheeler. so i cleaned all the leads and plugs and still nothing. so then yesterday i took the wiring apart to see if their was any frayed wires, and no their wasn't. does any one have any ideas what this could be i'm up for anything. also if any one knows how to bypass all the wiring just to get it to start i open to that to, or if someone knows where i can get a wiring diagram.
i have recently purchased a yamaha kodiak ultramatic 400cc. it is used and sat outside for a long time. i have done a lot of work on it and got it to run sort of. when i try to start it, it will start and run for a little bit then it will die, the time it runs varies. it has a new cdi, spark plug, and stator. most of the time it wont even start it just cranks over. there was one time that it started up right away and ran perfectly but the next time i tryed it wouldnt start. before that one time every time it started and ran it had a popping sound. i cant figure out why it wont run. any help would be muchly appreciated! thanks!
This is my first post and I was wondering if there is anyone who can help me solve a problem I have with my Yamaha Kodiak 400 4x4 Fitted with a Mikuni Carburetor . The year of the quad is around 1998, the reason I am not sure of the date is, there wasn't any paperwork and no details on the frame either.
The quad had a bad leak from the carb overflow which indicated that the float needle valve was blocked or passing so I replaced this and put everything back together. The quad ran really well until I took it onto some rough ground to have a ride around, a few hours later the engine started to run really rough as if the engine was flooding. I have removed the carb again and cleaned the needle valve out and the whole of the carb just in case there where any dirt behind it. Engine now runs fine again but fuel has started to run out the carb overflow again.
I have tried everything to try and stop the fuel leaking out the overflow but its still happening. My last thoughts where to adjust the float level and its still happening.
Has anyone got any thoughts on the problem or could suggest whats causing the fuel leaking out the overflow.
Thanks for reading
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