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By Gary Skriba
just got a 99 Kawasaki bayou replace the coil because the spark was very weak still have the same issue before it would start after a while that it would start everyday as long as you started it every day but if you let it set you play hell starting it looking for information on what could possibly be wrong maybe the CDI box not sure any help would greatly be appreciated thank you
By matthew smith
I have a honda recon 250 that i just bought. the compression is around 90 needs to be rebuilt. im getting into rebuilding it took apart the top end no problem except for the cylinder walls. as shown in the pictures. the way the piston sits in the cylinder is if you were sitting on the wheeler the skirt on the piston is left to right. so the wrist pin is front to back. which is where the two marks are in the cylinder. so that means the connecting rod is making the piston slap the cylinder on the wrist pin side which seems like a weird way for the cylinder to be moving. not natural. now the connecting rod has slight play left to right but not up and down. ive talked to a few people they say it might be the roller bearings in the connecting rod where it meets the crankshaft. but the play it has is not that much. im just looking for some more input before i start splitting the case.
By Justice Owens
Hey guys, any ideas would be greatly appreciated on this.
So it started a few months ago, riding with some buddies and my 400ex all of a sudden lost power. Wouldn't fire, wouldn't sputter. Towed it home, and then it fired right up. It continued this pattern for a week or two, ran perfectly for varying amounts of time, suddenly died, and would start right back up if I waited 20 mins or so.
Now we get to the next phase... I was dinking with it one day, I think I pulled the carb off and cleaned it out, (not really dirty but just to be sure) and I was trying different fuel screw adjustments. At any rate, I didn't notice much change, except obviously running a little poorer when I had the fuel screw in the wrong place. I took it on a quick ride around the block, and it was just fine. Ran awesome, had lots of power, etc. Then went around the block again and it died on me this time right as I revved it. Ever since then I haven't been able to get it to start.
Now when I turn it over, it sputters, fires a touch, but won't start. Ever. I replaced the plug, CDI, and coil, with no change. I do know that it has spark, but I don't know for certain that its big enough. After replacing these with no change I popped the carb off and tried firing it up spraying some either right into the intake. Upon doing so, it revved right up, but obviously there was no carb so it didn't stay running for long. While spraying the ether it seemed to run just like other engines I've tried spraying ether into no popping or backfiring etc. When it fired right up on the ether, I figured I must have a carb issue, so I just bought a whole new carb instead of taking the old one apart for the 800th time. When I put it in, there was no change whatsoever. Still turns over and sputters, but won't fire up.
I am completely befused, and any input would be graciously accepted. If you read through all that your a trooper, so thanks very much :)
I rebuilt the carb on a 1989 350 Big Bear. This is a Gen 1 carb ( 2 cables running to throttle).
Quad starts and runs but I have fuel leaking from the air intake.
Is the float set to high / low?
Does the needle for the main jet need adjusting? I have it on the center groove ( 2 groves above and 2 groves below).
All jets are new, float and needle and seat are new.
Thanks for your help
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So when im ridding in high gear randomly sometimes it will go into a persay limp mode and only allows a max of 30kmph and it sounds like a rev limiter, what would cause this and how to eliminate this all togeter as in the new ones with the over ride switch. its the sound that it does in low range or reverse. i want this gone period when i get stuck in mud i cann spin tires fast enough. and while im in high gear i dont want this happening. if you need more details the easier way of getting a hold of me rather then the forum is my email [email protected] i dont have time to check back here oftern but i get my emails right away.. thanks guys
By Christian Brindle
I've already posted here once about this ATV. Lots of people suggested i check the cam and after a couple months i finally got around to attacking it. I got it all apart and got the cam/rockers out. I'm almost positive they need to be replaced, they're pretty scored up and don't look too hot. Just wanted some final opinions before i drop the money on it. I'll also take feedback on the new cam i've chosen.
New Cam: https://www.amazon.com/hz/wishlist/ls/2GM2J05FQQPCD?ref_=wl_share
i have a 2000 suzuki king quad lt-f300f that i picked up as a project bike. it didnt run well when it was parked outside 5 years ago. it cranked after putting fresh gas - but would not run below half throttle, i took apart the carb, cleaned debris, and re-assembled. i suspect that the pilot needle is sheared off - it never protrudes into the throttle body through the pinhole. now to get the bike to ALMOST idle, the throttle idle adjustment knob is all the way up/in. the pilot needle is turned almost all the way in/up (if i understand correct, it should nominally be out 2 1/4 turns or so). and like i said, it will ALMOST idle. floods easily, rides rough.
wanted to hear from those more experienced than me with suzukis - and im self-taught atv repair, so dont laugh too hard if my verbiage/part names is way off.
facing the driver's side of the bike [US] there are three hoses on this side of the carb. without a service manual or way of knowing what was messed up before i got it, i think i have them right: front hose as a vacuum to the petcock, middle hose as vacuum to the fuel pump, rear hose as fuel line from the fuel pump. running the bike in prime position results in flooding even while riding. with all hoses disconnected from the carb, fuel slowly drips from the vacuum line connected to the petcock.
so just my speculation is that the diaphragm in the petcock is split, and the pilot needle is broke off - causing my inability to not quite idle and the rough ride. this suzuki is hoses and cables everywhere compared to the honda ranchers and yamaha warriors i am used to. I would like to have a plan rather than: replace everything at once.
is my speculation on the right track, or could something else be at play? say, if the compression was non-existent, would that cause non-idling? i am all ears, look forward to the input.
I traded my dirt bike for a 2000 arctic cat 500 semi automatic. when i went to go pick it up the guy said it didn't get spark, so i thought it was going to be something simple like a coil. well it wasn't. first thing i did was take all the plastics off to get easy asses to every thing. so i bought a brand new battery for it seeing if it got power, it didn't. the dash wouldn't light up neither would the lights, so then i tried to see if the starter worked it didn't so i jumped the solenoid and the starter started turning over the motor. so i bought a new starter solenoid, when i installed it the electric start still wouldn't work , so i bought a new kill switch and starter switch that goes on the handle bars, when i installed it, the electric start still wouldn't work. so then i went to see if i could get spark by pull starting it, i didn't get any spark, so i bought a new spark plug, and guess what, still no spark, so then i bought a new coil for it to see if that would fix it. so i installed the new coil and guess what no spark still and still no power to the dash. so to sum it up i'm not getting any power any where to the four wheeler. so i cleaned all the leads and plugs and still nothing. so then yesterday i took the wiring apart to see if their was any frayed wires, and no their wasn't. does any one have any ideas what this could be i'm up for anything. also if any one knows how to bypass all the wiring just to get it to start i open to that to, or if someone knows where i can get a wiring diagram.
i have recently purchased a yamaha kodiak ultramatic 400cc. it is used and sat outside for a long time. i have done a lot of work on it and got it to run sort of. when i try to start it, it will start and run for a little bit then it will die, the time it runs varies. it has a new cdi, spark plug, and stator. most of the time it wont even start it just cranks over. there was one time that it started up right away and ran perfectly but the next time i tryed it wouldnt start. before that one time every time it started and ran it had a popping sound. i cant figure out why it wont run. any help would be muchly appreciated! thanks!
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