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I did a total restoration on a 2003 Yamaha Raptor 80. Rebuilt the engine and tranny.. Started it up today and it runs great. Took it for a ride and the transmission worked perfectly. Adjusted the carb a little more and went for another ride. It ran awesome, pulled into the workshop shifted into neutral ( Neutral light came on) and shut off the bike. went to roll it and noticed she would not roll. Turned on the key and neutral light was on... After some troubleshooting I found that she is in first gear with the neutral light on and will not shift into neutral... It seems to up shift fine into 2nd and 3rd and then back down to 1st. I am hoping somebody can shed some light on what is happening... Thanks for any help...
By Dwight Williams
Ok, so I bought this scream of a deal the other day - a 94 King Quad 300 for $40.00. It's been sitting outside with no carburetor on it for about a year. Its rusty, missing some parts, wiring is all cut up and spliced etc. No seat, no racks but the plastic is all there minus the headlight housing. Anyway, who can pass up a $40.00 quad right? I get it home and looked at the sight glass for oil level, it's about 1/2 oil and 1/2 water. I drain it, refill it and turn the motor by hand (recoil starter is missing) and it turns over just fine. I worked on the wiring for about an hour and got it to turn over with the electric starter and got enough of it sorted out to get a spark. Did a quick compression test, 70 lbs. Wet test bumped it up to 90. Ok, so rings and cylinder washed out with water for a year, not too surprised. I thought 'what the hell' and sprayed some starting fluid in it and it ran for about 2 seconds - enough to show it's got life. Since then the compression has gotten worse, I can't get enough pressure to activate the carb diaphragm, therefore no fuel pump either. The compression is now around 60.
Anyway, my question is....is it worth it to try to get this thing going? I tore the top end down today and the cam and one of the rockers is pretty worn. I figured a top end job would be about $100 or so, depending on the condition of the cylinder but I'll probably have to put a cam and rockers in it as well. Doing some research on ebay I figure I'll have to spend about $500-$700 to make the whole machine right again. Much less just to make it run and use as-is but I won't really like it until it's right. I don't mind doing the work, I actually enjoy it but I'm concerned about what all that water did to the rest of the internals, I can't really test it all out until I can make it run.
I know it's a basket case but I'm not into it much at all, even if I do the top end and find something else wrong I'm still not out much. I'm leaning toward ordering the top end parts and going from there unless you can convince me otherwise - any way to check the rest of the internals without tearing it down? I plan on flushing the oil cooler before I do another oil change, I've drained it twice now and it gets milky almost immediately just turning the starter - I suspect the oil cooler is polluted badly.
I'll get some pictures today if anyone want to see them.
By Adrian Ciotinga
I recently picked up an ‘07 KFX 700. All was going well, rode it about 40 miles, when it started bogging at low speeds. If I kept the revs higher, I was just fine. Also, a persistent issue since I picked it up is the fairly difficult start (but it is abnormally cold right now and the quad is jetted for the dunes at summertime).
Regarding the complete lack of idle, I have to rev it a couple times to get it to idle after starting it, after which it’s 50/50 whether it remains idling. I don’t have low fuel, but all of this began after I rode it pretty hard and the radiator fan kicked in. Might be overheating, just wanted to hear your opinions.
ok help so according the service manual, Idle Air Mix Screw (aka Pilot screw) should be initially set to 2.5 turns out from fully seated.
If I do that the motor doesn't want to start or stay running...right now the pilot screw is probably somewhere near 5 turns out....I'll take the carb off tomorrow to count to know for sure.
mind you the carb got a new float seat,float needle and various other components in the kit.
To get the motor running I hard to turn the pilot screw out quite a bit, and turned the idle speed screw in quite a bit...I didn't hook up an inductive tach to know what it is idling at, but does sound about right.
What should the idle speed adjustment screw initially be set at (the one that has the black cable sheath with a knob you can twist easily)?
Is there a special tool to turn the idle/pilot mix screw whilst the carb is on the running motor? I am using a slotted screw driver bit (normally goes into a driver) by hand..makes it hard to turn the driver and hard to tell how many turns .
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So when im ridding in high gear randomly sometimes it will go into a persay limp mode and only allows a max of 30kmph and it sounds like a rev limiter, what would cause this and how to eliminate this all togeter as in the new ones with the over ride switch. its the sound that it does in low range or reverse. i want this gone period when i get stuck in mud i cann spin tires fast enough. and while im in high gear i dont want this happening. if you need more details the easier way of getting a hold of me rather then the forum is my email [email protected] i dont have time to check back here oftern but i get my emails right away.. thanks guys
By Christian Brindle
I've already posted here once about this ATV. Lots of people suggested i check the cam and after a couple months i finally got around to attacking it. I got it all apart and got the cam/rockers out. I'm almost positive they need to be replaced, they're pretty scored up and don't look too hot. Just wanted some final opinions before i drop the money on it. I'll also take feedback on the new cam i've chosen.
New Cam: https://www.amazon.com/hz/wishlist/ls/2GM2J05FQQPCD?ref_=wl_share
i have a 2000 suzuki king quad lt-f300f that i picked up as a project bike. it didnt run well when it was parked outside 5 years ago. it cranked after putting fresh gas - but would not run below half throttle, i took apart the carb, cleaned debris, and re-assembled. i suspect that the pilot needle is sheared off - it never protrudes into the throttle body through the pinhole. now to get the bike to ALMOST idle, the throttle idle adjustment knob is all the way up/in. the pilot needle is turned almost all the way in/up (if i understand correct, it should nominally be out 2 1/4 turns or so). and like i said, it will ALMOST idle. floods easily, rides rough.
wanted to hear from those more experienced than me with suzukis - and im self-taught atv repair, so dont laugh too hard if my verbiage/part names is way off.
facing the driver's side of the bike [US] there are three hoses on this side of the carb. without a service manual or way of knowing what was messed up before i got it, i think i have them right: front hose as a vacuum to the petcock, middle hose as vacuum to the fuel pump, rear hose as fuel line from the fuel pump. running the bike in prime position results in flooding even while riding. with all hoses disconnected from the carb, fuel slowly drips from the vacuum line connected to the petcock.
so just my speculation is that the diaphragm in the petcock is split, and the pilot needle is broke off - causing my inability to not quite idle and the rough ride. this suzuki is hoses and cables everywhere compared to the honda ranchers and yamaha warriors i am used to. I would like to have a plan rather than: replace everything at once.
is my speculation on the right track, or could something else be at play? say, if the compression was non-existent, would that cause non-idling? i am all ears, look forward to the input.
I traded my dirt bike for a 2000 arctic cat 500 semi automatic. when i went to go pick it up the guy said it didn't get spark, so i thought it was going to be something simple like a coil. well it wasn't. first thing i did was take all the plastics off to get easy asses to every thing. so i bought a brand new battery for it seeing if it got power, it didn't. the dash wouldn't light up neither would the lights, so then i tried to see if the starter worked it didn't so i jumped the solenoid and the starter started turning over the motor. so i bought a new starter solenoid, when i installed it the electric start still wouldn't work , so i bought a new kill switch and starter switch that goes on the handle bars, when i installed it, the electric start still wouldn't work. so then i went to see if i could get spark by pull starting it, i didn't get any spark, so i bought a new spark plug, and guess what, still no spark, so then i bought a new coil for it to see if that would fix it. so i installed the new coil and guess what no spark still and still no power to the dash. so to sum it up i'm not getting any power any where to the four wheeler. so i cleaned all the leads and plugs and still nothing. so then yesterday i took the wiring apart to see if their was any frayed wires, and no their wasn't. does any one have any ideas what this could be i'm up for anything. also if any one knows how to bypass all the wiring just to get it to start i open to that to, or if someone knows where i can get a wiring diagram.
i have recently purchased a yamaha kodiak ultramatic 400cc. it is used and sat outside for a long time. i have done a lot of work on it and got it to run sort of. when i try to start it, it will start and run for a little bit then it will die, the time it runs varies. it has a new cdi, spark plug, and stator. most of the time it wont even start it just cranks over. there was one time that it started up right away and ran perfectly but the next time i tryed it wouldnt start. before that one time every time it started and ran it had a popping sound. i cant figure out why it wont run. any help would be muchly appreciated! thanks!
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