Quantcast
Jump to content

  • Do you own an ATV? Join our Forum!

    As a member, you can post in our forums, upload your photos and videos, use and contribute to our downloads, create your own member page, add your ATV events, and even start your own ATV club to host your own club forum and gallery.  Registration is fast and you can even login with social network accounts to sync your profiles and content.

jwernatl

03 suzuki Eiger Half Shaft Replacement

Recommended Posts

Please Please any help -- I'm replaceing my right front half shaft and I dont know how to get the axle out...

I got the axle apart and pulled the entire unit away from the Quad - I have a complete axle to replace it. When I tapped the axle, it pulled everything away from the quad.

That's not what I wanted as the 'green egg' (that my axle slides into) came away from the differential I can't dis-attach it from my axle.

I pulled the boot back and can see the bearings in the 'green egg' but cant get the axle out of the green egg-- it wants to pull the bearings out and they wont come out either. (which is good) - I dont really want to pull that out/apart and mess with those. I wanted to pull the axle out and slip mine in.

How do I get that out???

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites


There is a large internal snap ring just inside the housing, or "green egg" as you called it. You will need to take thie ring out, they can be a pain, but you should be able to get ahold of it and get it out with a couple of flathead screwdrivers. Once the snap ring is out, you will have to pull the internal part of the joint out with the bearing balls. Just be carfull not to drop them, they will be easy enough to put back in. Once you have the shaft and bearing center out of the housing, look on the far end behind the bearing center, there should be a small external circlip holding the bearing center on the shaft, once you get that circlip off the bearing center should slide right off the shaft.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Join the conversation

You can post now and register later. If you have an account, sign in now to post with your account.
Note: Your post will require moderator approval before it will be visible.

Guest
Reply to this topic...

×   Pasted as rich text.   Paste as plain text instead

  Only 75 emoji are allowed.

×   Your link has been automatically embedded.   Display as a link instead

×   Your previous content has been restored.   Clear editor

×   You cannot paste images directly. Upload or insert images from URL.


  • Similar Topics

    • By Randel1
      I am trying to put a 1994 Suzuki 250 quadrunner back into service. I have it up and running like new but need to replace the plastics as they are brittle and crumbling due to age and sun exposure. I would like to purchase new parts either OEM or aftermarket but have had little luck in finding them. I would even consider used or salvaged parts in serviceable condition. Any help in locating these parts would be greatly appreciated. Thanks in advance.
    • By Dwight Williams
      Ok, so I bought this scream of a deal the other day - a 94 King Quad 300 for $40.00.  It's been sitting outside with no carburetor on it for about a year.  Its rusty, missing some parts, wiring is all cut up and spliced etc.  No seat, no racks but the plastic is all there minus the headlight housing.  Anyway, who can pass up a $40.00 quad right?  I get it home and looked at the sight glass for oil level, it's about 1/2 oil and 1/2 water.  I drain it, refill it and turn the motor by hand (recoil starter is missing) and it turns over just fine.  I worked on the wiring for about an hour and got it to turn over with the electric starter and got enough of it sorted out to get a spark.  Did a quick compression test, 70 lbs.  Wet test bumped it up to 90.  Ok, so rings and cylinder washed out with water for a year, not too surprised.  I thought 'what the hell' and sprayed some starting fluid in it and it ran for about 2 seconds - enough to show  it's got life.  Since then the compression has gotten worse, I can't get enough pressure to activate the carb diaphragm, therefore no fuel pump either.  The compression is now around 60.
        Anyway, my question is....is it worth it to try to get this thing going?  I tore the top end down today and the cam and one of the rockers is pretty worn.  I figured a top end job would be about $100 or so, depending on the condition of the cylinder but I'll probably have to put a cam and rockers in it as well.  Doing some research on ebay I figure I'll have to spend about $500-$700 to make the whole machine right again.  Much less just to make it run and use as-is but I won't really like it until it's right.  I don't mind doing the work, I actually enjoy it but I'm concerned about what all that water did to the rest of the internals, I can't really test it all out until I can make it run.
      I know it's a basket case but I'm not into it much at all, even if I do the top end and find something else wrong I'm still not out much.  I'm leaning toward ordering the top end parts and going from there unless you can convince me otherwise - any way to check the rest of the internals without tearing it down?  I plan on flushing the oil cooler before I do another oil change, I've drained it twice now and it gets milky almost immediately just turning the starter - I suspect the oil cooler is polluted badly.
       
      I'll get some pictures today if anyone want to see them.
       
      thanks!
    • By Skhot K
      Hello! I picked up a YFM400 and I would love to talk shop with knowledgeable co-owners, and I'd love input about the machine from anyone here who clearly knows more than I do! Cheers from NY
    • By Jeremy Morris
      If you're getting that pesky leaky seal on the pinion of your front differential and the pinion has allot of play, polaris won't sell the bushing needed to repair it properly without having to shell out big bucks for the complete ring and pinion kit. 
      I have a kit with an upgraded bushing, Japanese made bearing and USmade seal
      50 shipped in the US and 55 to Canada

    • By bradleyheathhays
      Damn, it took 30 years of driving to cause my first accident, and on Friday the damn 13th. Did a low speed rear end into the back of a lifted truck and got into it's trailer receiver. The only place it made contact with was at the very front center of the hood close to where it latches. Unfortunately the impact was enough that there's a longitudinal hump in the middle of the hood now, bowed 6 inches on each side above the quarter panels, which weren't involved at all thank God. Both my headlights are cracked at the top, but not because they got hit; I think it was because the hood and it's latch was pushed back during the collision possibly deforming the support structure, causing the to separate. The hood is lifted up about 3 inches above each headlight and when looking in at the support material just behind each headlight, one side shows cracks and the other cracks and about a 1/2 gap in the material. Can't tell but it may resemble fiberglass, not really sure? My best guess is that the whole front bumper is gonna have to come off and that entire front support piece be replaced. Any advice on how hard this can be? I do a lot of my own work but I really don't want to be getting into this especially with the weather getting so bad now.


      When I go junkyard shopping for parts, what year Tauruses are compatible with my '02?
  • Similar Tagged Content

  • Recently Browsing   0 members

    No registered users viewing this page.


×
×
  • Create New...