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By Steven Urban
First time using this forum. Owned a Kawasaki dirt bike once, had no issues. But I picked up this 4 wheeler at an auction. They stated it ran, but only needed a battery. Well I do not believe that was all true.
Some pictures are attached. Not sure why, but the whole air filter stuff was removed. They had some small thing inserted as a make shift air filter.
I purchased a battery to try this all out. Waiting to return it and get the proper size, as it was too big for the battery box. But here is my issue I had while the battery was connected.
1 - The lights on the steering column did not come on. Not sure if they work or not.
2 - The starter solenoid seems to be bad. I have a new one on order.
3 - In the pick, there is another rusted part. Not sure what that part is or what it is used for.
4 - What is the 12v rectifier? square bodied part.
So when I hooked the battery up. Pushing the start button did nothing. Pulling the cord to try and pull start, it turned, but would never fire. I have put in a new spark plug as well, it looked worn out. With electric start, I crossed over the posts on the start solenoid, it turned over, but would never fire and start.
I have read a few other threads and it stated something about needed the neutral light on. SOmething about a kill switch.
Any help would be appreciated.
i know this isnt an atv but same type of thing. I have a riding mower im fixing and selling for my aunt and it has a dead battery. i jumped it off my atv and when i turn the key nothing at all happens. i tried jumping the relay still nothing. this is with the seat down. you wouldnt think this mower would have issues as its a top-of-the-line brand and almost brand new (aunt found it for a good price, still got tits on tires, just sat for a couple months in a mechanic shop
By Dwight Williams
Ok, so I bought this scream of a deal the other day - a 94 King Quad 300 for $40.00. It's been sitting outside with no carburetor on it for about a year. Its rusty, missing some parts, wiring is all cut up and spliced etc. No seat, no racks but the plastic is all there minus the headlight housing. Anyway, who can pass up a $40.00 quad right? I get it home and looked at the sight glass for oil level, it's about 1/2 oil and 1/2 water. I drain it, refill it and turn the motor by hand (recoil starter is missing) and it turns over just fine. I worked on the wiring for about an hour and got it to turn over with the electric starter and got enough of it sorted out to get a spark. Did a quick compression test, 70 lbs. Wet test bumped it up to 90. Ok, so rings and cylinder washed out with water for a year, not too surprised. I thought 'what the hell' and sprayed some starting fluid in it and it ran for about 2 seconds - enough to show it's got life. Since then the compression has gotten worse, I can't get enough pressure to activate the carb diaphragm, therefore no fuel pump either. The compression is now around 60.
Anyway, my question is....is it worth it to try to get this thing going? I tore the top end down today and the cam and one of the rockers is pretty worn. I figured a top end job would be about $100 or so, depending on the condition of the cylinder but I'll probably have to put a cam and rockers in it as well. Doing some research on ebay I figure I'll have to spend about $500-$700 to make the whole machine right again. Much less just to make it run and use as-is but I won't really like it until it's right. I don't mind doing the work, I actually enjoy it but I'm concerned about what all that water did to the rest of the internals, I can't really test it all out until I can make it run.
I know it's a basket case but I'm not into it much at all, even if I do the top end and find something else wrong I'm still not out much. I'm leaning toward ordering the top end parts and going from there unless you can convince me otherwise - any way to check the rest of the internals without tearing it down? I plan on flushing the oil cooler before I do another oil change, I've drained it twice now and it gets milky almost immediately just turning the starter - I suspect the oil cooler is polluted badly.
I'll get some pictures today if anyone want to see them.
Took a little ride around the farm today. It was good to get away from the TV, Politicians, and all around bad news. Only an hour or two, but helped recharge me. This is in Western KY on our farm. About 85 degrees today here. I will still get you guys a run down in the newer ohv and atv parks here in this end of the state. But not today I'm thinking of heading back out for a night ride later.
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This is my first post and I was wondering if there is anyone who can help me solve a problem I have with my Yamaha Kodiak 400 4x4 Fitted with a Mikuni Carburetor . The year of the quad is around 1998, the reason I am not sure of the date is, there wasn't any paperwork and no details on the frame either.
The quad had a bad leak from the carb overflow which indicated that the float needle valve was blocked or passing so I replaced this and put everything back together. The quad ran really well until I took it onto some rough ground to have a ride around, a few hours later the engine started to run really rough as if the engine was flooding. I have removed the carb again and cleaned the needle valve out and the whole of the carb just in case there where any dirt behind it. Engine now runs fine again but fuel has started to run out the carb overflow again.
I have tried everything to try and stop the fuel leaking out the overflow but its still happening. My last thoughts where to adjust the float level and its still happening.
Has anyone got any thoughts on the problem or could suggest whats causing the fuel leaking out the overflow.
Thanks for reading
:confused:need a repair manual or help in what to look for thank you Bill
for you muddober to make clear to you the neutral light and the gear light
do not light up win shifting fuses are good Iuse my CAt for hunting im dissable the atv is my leag s thank you
Hello, well back to where I was last year with this carb. Took my 250 to the mountains for the first time this year and blue smoke, too much gas again. I can't believe that this carb gives me this much trouble. Seems like the choke is stuck but the cable moves freely. Anyone else ever experience this issue? Do you think a new choke cable would maybe resolve this?http://www.quadcrazy.com/atvforum/images/smilies/arghh.gif
OK it was the choke. Put on all new cable and plunger and she is running 100% again. So now the question is, is the carb getting worn out where the plunger needle goes in the small hole and when I use the choke the needle end doesn't get lined back up with the hole?? We'll see how it runs and now that I know what the issue is I can always pull the choke plunger out and reinstall if I start having this issue again.
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