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Hey I have a 97 bayou 300 2x4 (klf300b) that i bought for 1000 last June and sunk another 1000 into it already. When i went to look at it, the seller had warmed it up before hand (he was riding it when I got there). it ran good so i bought it and took it home that evening... next morning it wouldn't hardly start. I discovered the carb was clogged, there was chunks of rust in the fuel valve, the choke lever was missing and other things. I have since cleaned the carb and replaced the fuel valve and gas lines and cleaned out the gas tank and cap.
Enough background on it, the problem is this: It floods if i push it past half throttle in 4th and 5th gear even going downhill and shifting correctly. It also has to idle and warm up when you first start it which is really annoying now that its cold... It also smokes blue smoke for about 15 seconds when started cold- does not smoke at all once warm but the exhaust still smells like burnt metal. A friend told me that it didn't have enough compression. I also found out that the valves are a common cause for low compression on Kawasakis.. I have never adjusted valves before- the most I've ever got into a engine was a head gasket on a riding mower so I'm new to this. My goal is to get this bike running and starting cold like a top- should i tear down and rebuild the top end? What should i try first? I tore the carb apart and rebuilt it and fiddled with the air screw and nothing changed. I also ordered a compression test kit that should be coming in soon.
Ive also considered just selling it for like $500 and taking the hit- Id rather not sink too much more into this machine.. lol
recently picked up some project bikes off CL for cheap. got a honda fourtrax (the ancient 4x4 kind with the straight axle in the front as well as the rear and a back-up kick-start) plastics are crap, but my goal is to get running like a champ and patch the plastics up and sell to one of my many friends that want a reliable 4x4 for dirt cheap and doesnt care what it looks like.
so the former owner says it needs carb rebuilt, but its sat for 3+ years since so who knows. things I see: carb is missing (he gave me a box of parts along with the bike), engine turns over and feels good with kick-start, brakes need work, battery missing (That always puts me off, cause then I know most likely someone's been tampering with the electrical.
By Lance Workman
Guys, had a worn smokey recon 250 to the point it it was fouling plugs. Well pulled the jug looked great and believe my culprit was valve seals. They could not even hold the valve in place. So honed the cylinder for good measure and installed new rings while it was apart. Also lapped valves while it was apart due to little corrosion on the intake valve face, went on and did exhuast while it was apart also. Reinstalled everything, adjusted valves, I cant remember how far out they was but they where out a bit. Well long story short it started up, ran great for about 20 minutes and then randomly died while accelerating. Compression is 60 psi at best.... double checked valve lash and it was way out?? Adjusted it, but you can tell its not right. Still no start, and with rockers arms removed still not compression......? Which making believe ring issue? But why is valve lash all over the place?! Is there an easy way to check cam to crank timing to make sure it hasn't jump time? Thanks!
By ray desocio
I posted earlier looking for a wiring diagram, but maybe someone can help me with the problem if they’ve had it before.
The quad Will start and idle ok, when I open the throttle it will rev all the way up until WOT and then it dies back down to idle, and if I keep the throttle wide open it will rev back up. It will do this over and over and over.
I replaced the carb, (twice), Rectifier, battery, and spark plug. The Stator ohmed out to the proper specs from dinli. The other issue i can see is I’m not getting 12v on the choke circuit. The lights don’t work either.
possible bad key switch? Maybe the new rectifier is bad? All the contacts on the key switch also ohm out properly
comprsssion is up to 125 psi and spark is there.
Reed valves look great.....
im at a loss. Any trouble shooting advice would be appreciated.
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So when im ridding in high gear randomly sometimes it will go into a persay limp mode and only allows a max of 30kmph and it sounds like a rev limiter, what would cause this and how to eliminate this all togeter as in the new ones with the over ride switch. its the sound that it does in low range or reverse. i want this gone period when i get stuck in mud i cann spin tires fast enough. and while im in high gear i dont want this happening. if you need more details the easier way of getting a hold of me rather then the forum is my email [email protected] i dont have time to check back here oftern but i get my emails right away.. thanks guys
By Christian Brindle
I've already posted here once about this ATV. Lots of people suggested i check the cam and after a couple months i finally got around to attacking it. I got it all apart and got the cam/rockers out. I'm almost positive they need to be replaced, they're pretty scored up and don't look too hot. Just wanted some final opinions before i drop the money on it. I'll also take feedback on the new cam i've chosen.
New Cam: https://www.amazon.com/hz/wishlist/ls/2GM2J05FQQPCD?ref_=wl_share
i have a 2000 suzuki king quad lt-f300f that i picked up as a project bike. it didnt run well when it was parked outside 5 years ago. it cranked after putting fresh gas - but would not run below half throttle, i took apart the carb, cleaned debris, and re-assembled. i suspect that the pilot needle is sheared off - it never protrudes into the throttle body through the pinhole. now to get the bike to ALMOST idle, the throttle idle adjustment knob is all the way up/in. the pilot needle is turned almost all the way in/up (if i understand correct, it should nominally be out 2 1/4 turns or so). and like i said, it will ALMOST idle. floods easily, rides rough.
wanted to hear from those more experienced than me with suzukis - and im self-taught atv repair, so dont laugh too hard if my verbiage/part names is way off.
facing the driver's side of the bike [US] there are three hoses on this side of the carb. without a service manual or way of knowing what was messed up before i got it, i think i have them right: front hose as a vacuum to the petcock, middle hose as vacuum to the fuel pump, rear hose as fuel line from the fuel pump. running the bike in prime position results in flooding even while riding. with all hoses disconnected from the carb, fuel slowly drips from the vacuum line connected to the petcock.
so just my speculation is that the diaphragm in the petcock is split, and the pilot needle is broke off - causing my inability to not quite idle and the rough ride. this suzuki is hoses and cables everywhere compared to the honda ranchers and yamaha warriors i am used to. I would like to have a plan rather than: replace everything at once.
is my speculation on the right track, or could something else be at play? say, if the compression was non-existent, would that cause non-idling? i am all ears, look forward to the input.
I traded my dirt bike for a 2000 arctic cat 500 semi automatic. when i went to go pick it up the guy said it didn't get spark, so i thought it was going to be something simple like a coil. well it wasn't. first thing i did was take all the plastics off to get easy asses to every thing. so i bought a brand new battery for it seeing if it got power, it didn't. the dash wouldn't light up neither would the lights, so then i tried to see if the starter worked it didn't so i jumped the solenoid and the starter started turning over the motor. so i bought a new starter solenoid, when i installed it the electric start still wouldn't work , so i bought a new kill switch and starter switch that goes on the handle bars, when i installed it, the electric start still wouldn't work. so then i went to see if i could get spark by pull starting it, i didn't get any spark, so i bought a new spark plug, and guess what, still no spark, so then i bought a new coil for it to see if that would fix it. so i installed the new coil and guess what no spark still and still no power to the dash. so to sum it up i'm not getting any power any where to the four wheeler. so i cleaned all the leads and plugs and still nothing. so then yesterday i took the wiring apart to see if their was any frayed wires, and no their wasn't. does any one have any ideas what this could be i'm up for anything. also if any one knows how to bypass all the wiring just to get it to start i open to that to, or if someone knows where i can get a wiring diagram.
i have recently purchased a yamaha kodiak ultramatic 400cc. it is used and sat outside for a long time. i have done a lot of work on it and got it to run sort of. when i try to start it, it will start and run for a little bit then it will die, the time it runs varies. it has a new cdi, spark plug, and stator. most of the time it wont even start it just cranks over. there was one time that it started up right away and ran perfectly but the next time i tryed it wouldnt start. before that one time every time it started and ran it had a popping sound. i cant figure out why it wont run. any help would be muchly appreciated! thanks!
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