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Dumb question. How much oil registers on the oil level gauge while running? The oil level reads correct when off, but while running I can only see just a little bit in the oil level gauge. Makes wonder if the oil isn't circulating well enough.
Also, whats your preference in battery brands for ATV's (standard or AGM). We don't ride it all that often.
Thanks in advance for any info.
Got my Yamaha Grizzly buttoned up finally and went for a quick 2 hour ride in the power lines with my neighbor, who has a Yamaha Kodiak. We have access from his yard, which is nice. Was a beautiful day today to get out and will try to go more often. Ran into two other quad riders with a sportsman and I think grizzly. Also ran into a dirt bike rider. 😎
i have a 91 moto 4 100. has electric start only. for as long as i could remember we have always pushed start it. after riding for while you shut it off. you are able to hit the start button and it will start right up. anyone know where i should start with fixing this issue? im fixing it up for my niece. thank you in advance.
By Steven Urban
First time using this forum. Owned a Kawasaki dirt bike once, had no issues. But I picked up this 4 wheeler at an auction. They stated it ran, but only needed a battery. Well I do not believe that was all true.
Some pictures are attached. Not sure why, but the whole air filter stuff was removed. They had some small thing inserted as a make shift air filter.
I purchased a battery to try this all out. Waiting to return it and get the proper size, as it was too big for the battery box. But here is my issue I had while the battery was connected.
1 - The lights on the steering column did not come on. Not sure if they work or not.
2 - The starter solenoid seems to be bad. I have a new one on order.
3 - In the pick, there is another rusted part. Not sure what that part is or what it is used for.
4 - What is the 12v rectifier? square bodied part.
So when I hooked the battery up. Pushing the start button did nothing. Pulling the cord to try and pull start, it turned, but would never fire. I have put in a new spark plug as well, it looked worn out. With electric start, I crossed over the posts on the start solenoid, it turned over, but would never fire and start.
I have read a few other threads and it stated something about needed the neutral light on. SOmething about a kill switch.
Any help would be appreciated.
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Here's a good article and video on the basics when it comes to ATV front end wheel alignments.
When you hear the words front end alignment what comes to mind? Automobiles and potholes may be the first thought. There are other four wheeled vehicles out there running over a lot more than potholes. ATVs and side-by-sides live hard lives crawling over rocks, hauling loads, and crossing trails no other man-made vehicle would dare.
One of the most basic services these vehicles call for is the adjustment of the toe-in of the front wheels. The Suzuki Eiger LT-F-400F calls for this to be checked initially after 100 mi. or 1 month of use, and every 600 mi. or 3 months for the rest of its operational life. Be it a Yamaha Banshee, 50cc mini-quad, or Kawasaki Mule this is a periodic maintenance item that is essentially the same no matter the scale of machine.
Toe-in specifically refers to the amount the front wheels are pigeon toed. At axle level the center of the front tires are closer in the front than in the back. Most ATVs and side-by-sides call for the front wheels to be slightly pigeon toed to parallel.
Keeping the toe-in aliment in specification and adjusted correctly is important for performance, safety, and tire wear. If the front end of the vehicle is in a toe-out position, duck footed, the tires will wear more rapidly and the vehicle will be inherently unstable. In addition, if the toe-in adjustment is in specification but it has been improperly adjusted it may put excess strain on the steering components.
The first step in checking the toe-in is to check the tire pressure. Make sure the tire pressure set correctly in all four tires. The air pressure in the front tires should be as close to the same as possible. Place the vehicle on a level surface and position the steering straight ahead. Be sure to check with the appropriate service manual to see if there are any extra specifics for the vehicle. The Suzuki Eiger for example calls for the vehicle to be weighted as to simulate the rider.
Make a chalk mark on the front, center of each front tire at the height of the front axle. If available set up a toe gauge so that the pointers line up with the chalk marks.
Measure the distance between the front chalk marks. Record this measurement as A. Rotate the front wheels 180° so the marks remain at axle height, but are now facing to the rear. Record the distance between the marks on the backside of the tires as B.
Subtract the front measurement A from the rear measurement B to calculate the toe-in. If the number is negative you have a toe-out condition. Compare your toe-in figure with the factory specification found in the vehicles service manual.
To adjust the toe-in loosen the lock nuts on the tie-rods. The outer tie-rod lock nuts often have left hand threads.
Turn the tie rods with a wrench at the flats to change the toe-in. Be sure to evenly adjust the left and right tie-rods for proper alignment. Check with the service manual to see if there are any specifications for the length of the tire rods or the amount of threads that should be showing. If the tie-rods are not adjusted according to the OEM specifications the proper toe-in may be achieved, but the vehicle will not steer correctly and it could be at risk of breaking a tie-rod.
When the adjustment is correct hold the tie-rod flats and tighten the lock nuts to specification against each side of the tie-rod. Take a slow test ride to make sure the steering functions correctly.
Check out this additional video on ATV wheel alignments:
Ok so I have taken the front hubs apart everything is good and working fluids changed and full In 2 wheel drive the bike works great However in 4 wheel drive high I get a grinding clunking noise right near the foot pegs The universals are all brand new in the complete bike The problem just started after my last ride Sometimes I have to change the rpm to get the bike to go into gear in forward and reverse The bike doesn't make the grinding noise when I have the bike in 4 wheel driver low gear only in high gear Could the shifter need adjusting any help would be great Thanks for your time
the problem with the four wheel drive is instrument indicator will not go to two wheel selection in resonable time. cold or warm same. i have noticed occasional clunk from front differential on de-exceleration sometimes. advice or solution needed, thanks.
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