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By Mark Walters
Hi guys. First post, hope you can help. As above 1991 Honda fourtrax. Starting, running fine until a few weeks ago. Used primarily to put my ski boat in the garage (put 2" ball on front). Any way, had just backed boat into garage, turned off to crank trailer wheel down, when I went to restart got nothing.
No neutral light, no headlights, no reverse light, would not turn over when start button pushed. It would crank and run when I jumped the contacts on the start relay. While running the neutral light will come on, although it is dim and flickers. Reverse light on when running and in reverse.
What I have done to this point:
1. Used jumper cable to ground battery (-) terminal to engine block thinking ground wire from battery to engine may be bad. No neutral light, no start.
2. Applied 12 volts to start relay. Got a loud click like it was making contact. I didn't have the battery/starter cables connected to the relay, but I am assuming it would have cranked at that time.
3. Disconnected neutral switch wire. Grounded neutral switch wire with jumper wire. No neutral light, no electric start.
At this point I am thinking ignition switch vs broken wire in the harness going to the neutral switch (due to dimness and flickering when running).
Any and all suggestions to help track down this issue are appreciated.
I've always been a craftsman tool guy because I worked for sears auto for about 10 years. I was in Lowes the other day and they have pretty much everything craftsman now, for some time. They'll even warranty old tools I'm told, like sears did. So I'm happy about that.
My lakota has a new carb and just had a top end redone by a professional, but it will not start. The electric start turns it over great, there seems to be compression. It seems like its trying to start, getting right there and just doesnt catch. It does start occasionally, but wont run for more than a couple of minutes and smells rich. Im assuming the carb needs to be tuned, but im just wondering if anyone else has any ideas before i get a chance to work on it.
By Ed Zeppeli
I picked up this quad after the previous owner couldn't get it going.
The issue is that I can't get it to fire at idle or at all.
- replaced plug. Decent blue spark. Also tested with spark tester inline.
- rebuilt the carb. PO had already bypassed vacuum lines from petcock. There's fuel at the cylinder
- Checked compression with new gauge. reads 190 psi
- cleaned all contacts I could access.
- am currently jumping with car battery. Solenoid jumpered.
- checked cam timing at TDC and adjusted valve lash
- put gas directly into cylinder to see if it will fire at least momentarily
Motor turns over well. Plug gets wet.
Motor may fire once or twice but smokes through exhaust a bit as if it's trying to fire or combusting.
This leads me to suspect timing. As mentioned I checked the flywheel mark versus cam marks. Perhaps someone has been in there before because I can't find a 'T' on the flywheel but there is a very visible paint mark which aligns with TDC position on piston. Possibly a slipped flywheel/woodruff?
Is it possible that if it had seen previous repairs, that the timing could still be off? I'm reluctant to dig into the flywheel/stator area if there's something else I could have missed but all signs point me to that area. Would a bad CDI cause spark timing to be off?
Anywhere else to diagnose incorrect spark timing?
I've scoured these forums and elsewhere but I'm posting just in case there's something I've overlooked up until now.
Thanks very much for reading!
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Here's a good article and video on the basics when it comes to ATV front end wheel alignments.
When you hear the words front end alignment what comes to mind? Automobiles and potholes may be the first thought. There are other four wheeled vehicles out there running over a lot more than potholes. ATVs and side-by-sides live hard lives crawling over rocks, hauling loads, and crossing trails no other man-made vehicle would dare.
One of the most basic services these vehicles call for is the adjustment of the toe-in of the front wheels. The Suzuki Eiger LT-F-400F calls for this to be checked initially after 100 mi. or 1 month of use, and every 600 mi. or 3 months for the rest of its operational life. Be it a Yamaha Banshee, 50cc mini-quad, or Kawasaki Mule this is a periodic maintenance item that is essentially the same no matter the scale of machine.
Toe-in specifically refers to the amount the front wheels are pigeon toed. At axle level the center of the front tires are closer in the front than in the back. Most ATVs and side-by-sides call for the front wheels to be slightly pigeon toed to parallel.
Keeping the toe-in aliment in specification and adjusted correctly is important for performance, safety, and tire wear. If the front end of the vehicle is in a toe-out position, duck footed, the tires will wear more rapidly and the vehicle will be inherently unstable. In addition, if the toe-in adjustment is in specification but it has been improperly adjusted it may put excess strain on the steering components.
The first step in checking the toe-in is to check the tire pressure. Make sure the tire pressure set correctly in all four tires. The air pressure in the front tires should be as close to the same as possible. Place the vehicle on a level surface and position the steering straight ahead. Be sure to check with the appropriate service manual to see if there are any extra specifics for the vehicle. The Suzuki Eiger for example calls for the vehicle to be weighted as to simulate the rider.
Make a chalk mark on the front, center of each front tire at the height of the front axle. If available set up a toe gauge so that the pointers line up with the chalk marks.
Measure the distance between the front chalk marks. Record this measurement as A. Rotate the front wheels 180° so the marks remain at axle height, but are now facing to the rear. Record the distance between the marks on the backside of the tires as B.
Subtract the front measurement A from the rear measurement B to calculate the toe-in. If the number is negative you have a toe-out condition. Compare your toe-in figure with the factory specification found in the vehicles service manual.
To adjust the toe-in loosen the lock nuts on the tie-rods. The outer tie-rod lock nuts often have left hand threads.
Turn the tie rods with a wrench at the flats to change the toe-in. Be sure to evenly adjust the left and right tie-rods for proper alignment. Check with the service manual to see if there are any specifications for the length of the tire rods or the amount of threads that should be showing. If the tie-rods are not adjusted according to the OEM specifications the proper toe-in may be achieved, but the vehicle will not steer correctly and it could be at risk of breaking a tie-rod.
When the adjustment is correct hold the tie-rod flats and tighten the lock nuts to specification against each side of the tie-rod. Take a slow test ride to make sure the steering functions correctly.
Check out this additional video on ATV wheel alignments:
Ok so I have taken the front hubs apart everything is good and working fluids changed and full In 2 wheel drive the bike works great However in 4 wheel drive high I get a grinding clunking noise right near the foot pegs The universals are all brand new in the complete bike The problem just started after my last ride Sometimes I have to change the rpm to get the bike to go into gear in forward and reverse The bike doesn't make the grinding noise when I have the bike in 4 wheel driver low gear only in high gear Could the shifter need adjusting any help would be great Thanks for your time
the problem with the four wheel drive is instrument indicator will not go to two wheel selection in resonable time. cold or warm same. i have noticed occasional clunk from front differential on de-exceleration sometimes. advice or solution needed, thanks.
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