Do you own an ATV? Join our Forum!
As a member, you can post in our forums, upload your photos and videos, use and contribute to our downloads, create your own member page, add your ATV events, and even start your own ATV club to host your own club forum and gallery. Registration is fast and you can even login with social network accounts to sync your profiles and content.
By Roy Anderson
I have had a 2002 Suzuki King Quad 500 for almost a year. This is a question I’ve posted before, but likely missed the answer due to being new to the site. Here’s the issue. When in 4 wheel drive, especially in low range, especially when pulling a load downhill, I hear a lot of clanking in the front end. As if the front drive shaft was binding then unbinding. A friend who had a 1987 Dodge 4x4, told me all the noise his front end made when in 4 wheel drive was entirely normal. So, is this something I should worry about? I have all the bodywork and tank off right now doing a valve adjustment and carb rebuild. If I gotta do something, I’d like to do it now. Lastly, I’d love to find a carb tuning guide for this era of Mikuni. Haven’t tracked one down yet. Any thoughts of where to find one? Great forum. Have really enjoyed it so far.
By Micah Gafford
I bought this ATV from a friend who had it stored in their shed for a few years. I've been going through it getting things ready to fire it back up and get it driving around. So far I've changed out fluids, removed and cleaned gas tank. I am waiting on a fuel fitting to be ready to able to put the gas tank back on and fire up the engine. I'll follow up once I get to that point with whether or not that went smoothly.
Right now however I've got a brake problem. The brakes were locked up. I took the brake line off the master cylinder and made sure that it wasn't locked up, it works. I proceeded to try and flush them no luck. Then I just disconnected the brake lines. They appear to be blocked up. I don't know if the hose portions deteriorated or what. I've found the front left and right brake lines, although $70-80 each doesn't make me happy... I can't find anyone selling the rear brake line 1930751 or the primary 1930760 that goes to the inverted flare cross fitting. This leads me to wonder if I should buy parts and tools to make my own brake lines.
If I should decide to make my own can you point me to any tutorials out there on doing that and what size are these lines with the flared fittings?
Can anyone else find the two brake lines i listed for sale somewhere?
What the hell does everyone use to pull a flywheel/rotor on a 99 yamaha bear tracker 250? I have looked online and they show 2 or 3 different ones. Finally figured mine out and need to remove the stator rotor to repair the starter gear.it wasnt installed correctly causing my issue of it just spinning the starter
Similar Tagged Content
Just signed up, as I've had a recurring problem, and need some help.
To start the bike I have to put the choke on all the way and 4 squeezes on the gas, Then as I push the start, I slow squeeze the throttle about half way for it to catch....If I miss it, then it will take 5 mins of slowly finding the sweetspot on the choke in unison with some throttle squeezes.
Then I have to to hold the throttle to keep the bike going, using the choke will stall it out. after about 3 mins of holding the throttle, I then can let it go, and it idles fine, and runs fine. If it sits for a few hours it's only slightly hard to start, but a few days of sitting, and it's a lot more work.
Had the bike serviced they couldn't figure it out. They swapped peticock, plug, new gas, all new lines, new throttle, and cable. Said the carb was fine, and clean. New air filter, said fuel pump was fine, no leaks around carb boots, new battery, new rectifier.
Ran some sea foam through it....Runs Great.....Just such a pain to start...
Good morning all I am new to the forum and new to the world of ATVs. I recently purchased a 99 big bear 350 4x4 that has a few issues to be resolved. it started with the push button starter it would just click when the button was pushed to date I have replaced the solenoid with a Napa 4 wire setup (not sure if this is installed correctly) and replaced the older baterry with a AGM battery. after all of that it still clicks but the source of the click is a white plastic rectangular box with 2 wires going into it. i have 12.8 volts to the first post of the solenoid and nothing on the second post when the button is pushed. when the solenoid is jumped the starter engages. lastly i have no lights when the buggy is not running and when i hit the light switch there is also a click that happens. Thanks for any info anyone can provide I greatly appreciate the help.
Ok so I have taken the front hubs apart everything is good and working fluids changed and full In 2 wheel drive the bike works great However in 4 wheel drive high I get a grinding clunking noise right near the foot pegs The universals are all brand new in the complete bike The problem just started after my last ride Sometimes I have to change the rpm to get the bike to go into gear in forward and reverse The bike doesn't make the grinding noise when I have the bike in 4 wheel driver low gear only in high gear Could the shifter need adjusting any help would be great Thanks for your time
Just bought this quad and it is in pretty good shape.
It is missing a small plastic piece right above the headlamp cover right in front of handle bars. Does anybody know where I can find this piece?
Now the CV axle. The left inner CV boot is ripped and wheel hesitates when making a sharp turn in that direction. I am trying to find a replacement or a fix, but have been recieving different suggestions for the fix.
First one was buy a replacement CV axle. Second said to that the inner was it's own build and that if you ought a CV axle it would only e a half shaft. Just confused and need some guidence.
Thank you guys!
Title says it all. When I researched part it shows it does not exist anymore, discontinued. What can I do to stop the leak? Is there somewhere else I should be looking for part? The leak is coming from where shifter goes through seal, not around outside of seal between case and seal.
Recently Browsing 0 members
No registered users viewing this page.