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First of all sorry I have been MIA here for a while, been busy with school and work. I'll try and reply on some other threads asap, but posting this one because I just picked up a 2017 sportsman 570 before the new year and popped a boot on it going through a mud hole. The former owner had aftermarket axles on it to accommodate the 4in lift and idk what brand they are but they're skinny as heck and idk what boot to buy to rebuild with? It's the rear right lower boot (under the brake calp.). I'll post some pics when I can and sorry again I've missed yall on the forum!
I made my intro about a QuadRunner I was working on and found a multitude of problems. Most I fixed, but I'm thinking that I'll be making more trips to see the 90' LT-250/4WD. Age and needing regular attention is the reason. The owner, NOT being mechanically inclined, adds into the equation.
So, I deliver it and was offered, as payment, a 95' LT-250/4WD, with paper. It didn't run and had been sitting outside for last 12+ months. It was (basically) all there. This happened Saturday and this "Barn Find" came home to live out it's final years (I suspect).
Today I finally found time to look at her. Not a pretty sight. Rough life, many hrs....... MANY! Only 2399mi, but the speedo is disco'd. I just want to know if this will be worth pursuing. First things first, a really good cleaning. I hate working on dirty vehicles.
The battery actually took and held a charge! The carb was pulled, cleaned and the tank drained. Found a broken orange wire, dangling loose, near the carb. It was hot when the key was on and ended up connecting to a 10A fuse block. Well, I wonder why it didn't run???? Hmmmmmmmmmmmmm!
Carb back on, fresh non-eth fuel, had to remove the air filter for this test (needs replacement), sprayed a little ether..... hit the starter, fired and died. Third time's a charm, she runs. I'll be going thru things as I can and questions will follow, in this thread.
I picked up my first ever ATV on friday. It's an 89 Big Bear. It has some cosmetic issues, but seems pretty decent mechanically. I did have trouble getting the idle tuned to the book spec of 1,300 - 1,500 RPM. I took the carb apart and cleaned it out. Somebody must have lost the spring for the pilot screw, as it's no longer in the carb. Also, I have a dual cable carb, I noticed all the IPL's show the single cable carb, but I see others on youtube had dual cable carbs. When I would adjust my idle speed screw, nothing would happen. I bottomed it out and it didn't seem to make much if any difference. When i pulled the carb apart I saw the screw doesn't even touch the linkage, it's too short. Do the two different versions have different length carb screws? I'm wondering if somebody lost the ordinal, replaced it with the IPL number for a single cable carb which is shorter, and gave up on getting the ATV to idle. If you hold the throttle just a bit to get it to the RPM range listed above, it "idles" great. Any ideas? Or any links to the dual cable IPL?
Have you guys have good luck with the aftermarket intake boots? Or is this a buy once, cry once deal? I'm guessing the OEM units last longer, but there is a huge price difference. If you have had good luck with aftermarket, where did you get it? My current boot doesn't seem to have any air leaks, but it's encased in JB weld...
I'm getting a 9th digit check sum error on the ATV when I put the VIN in. Has anybody seen this before on a Yamaha? The VIN number looks original as well as the paint around it.
By artis allen
I bought a Kazuma Cougar 250 from a guy who used to fix ATV's but wanted to get rid of all his machines because he's "too old" and wants to quit fixing them, from what he says. anyway, One of the machines I bought was this Kazuma which I can't find any parts for it, or very little parts. I found one website that still sells parts, which I'm thankful. For the internal parts, I had to refer to the Honda Rebel 250 for parts. I had to buy 2 new pistons and gasket set and I couldnt find the parts so I did some research and found that alot of the parts are similiar so I ordered it and it was a match. I also used the manual for the Honda Rebel/Nighthawk and use this information to disassemble and assemble the motor. Very helpful for anyone who has one of these things. If anyone has more info on these things, please feel free to post.
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'11 Grizz 700 here and I ordered Yamaha front lower boot replacement kit 28P-2510G-00 which consisted of 5 parts. The 4 parts pictured plus a plastic bottle of grease...
First time doing this and the videos I've seen entail removing the entire axle then removing the top boot to get at the lower boot. Now when putting back together the top boot area (even though the boot isn't being replaced) it's suggested not to reuse the old axle retaining ring but to only use a new ring. So, seeing as how the kit I ordered did not come with the 2 (I believe) retaining rings for the top part of the axle or a second bottle of grease for the top boot it looks like I'll need to order some more parts before I can start on this one. Whadda y'all think?
Looks like I have all the parts (B, C, D, E) I'll need for the lower section...
So now I need to get the parts (G, H, I, J, K) for doing the top part...
Also, from what I've seen I think I'll be needing part 26 as well, which I think is an axle retaining clip. So, should I get this part too?
So now on to these clamps that came in the kit...
I've seen how other clamps work but not entirely sure about this one. The only retaining barb I can tell that's on this clamp is the little one in the yellow circle. Other clamps I've seen have much larger retaining nubs about the size of the ones with the blue arrows. So I'm guessing for this clip you use pliers to squeeze the blue arrow nubs together then hook using the small nub in yellow?
And lastly some questions on getting the 27mm axle nut off. I've seen this done with a pneumatic impact gun on a video but I don't like using those things. One way I've seen it described is to jack up and take the wheel off, remove the center plastic cap, replace the wheel and lower to the ground for some traction. Put the machine in park and chock the wheels, then put your wrench on the nut with possibly a breaker 'cheater' bar and crank. Same procedure for putting it on except you would prob use a torque wrench. Does this wound like the best way to get this 27mm axle nut off without using an impact gun? Even though the wheels would be chocked I imagine the gears (in park) would take the brunt of resisting the torque on the nut when it's being forced off. Would this be too much force on the gears?
Crap I know this is a long post already so sorry bout that. I'll just finish with summarizing my questions which have prob gotten lost in all that writing...
1) Should I order the full second upper boot kit plus the axle
retaining clip part # 26?
2) How to use the retaining clips in the kit I got
3) Best way to get the 27mm axle nut off.
Thanks for hanging in there with me through all that
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