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Passing thought here and thought I'd pitch it to the group for debate. I'm working through a Kodiak which is basically a Big Bear in a heavier bike and the same as about anything Japanese made for 30 years as far as clutch function and design goes. This Kodiak is odd though in that the centrifugal clutch slipped a bit with good clutch material remaining and the main clutch pack seems to slip a bit as well at high RPM but also still has good clutch material left. Much like the Kawa race bikes from what I've read. Do you think it's an option to add a thin washer to the pressure bolts to put a bit more pressure on the main clutch and force it to use a bit more of the clutch material before having to replace? There's seriously like 50% of fiber left on the main clutch pack and it seems silly to replace it all before it's truly worn down.
About done with the Kodiak finally. Oldest took it out today and ran the piss out of it, buried it to the belly, and I think its finally about ready to trust. However, there is a clutch slipping that needs to be addressed. It pulls fine from a dead stop to about half throttle. If you go ahead and open it up, the clutch basically lets go at higher RPM. My question then is; centrifugal clutch or main clutch pack bad? I assume since it pulls at low RPM then it's the main clutch pack slipping at WOT. School me though: where does the centrifugal clutch end and main clutch pack begin? Also added to this issue, he was crusing down a gravel road and all 4 wheels locked up and it died. I assume it tried to throw 2 gears at the same time and locked up. It unlocked though and shifted ok after coming to a stop.
Thieves cut the cable lock, stole my four wheeler. Broke into my cabin and stole numerous items.
The post Yamaha Kodiak Four Wheeler 4 Wheeler ATV appeared first on STOLEN 911.
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By Monika Novakov
1988 Kawasaki 220 Bayou trying to remove generator/ starter 1way clutch cover to be able to replace 1way clutch. All bolts are removed case cover is dripping what oil that remains...but I can't get the cover to come off..what am I missing? Thx in advance.
I thought I would make a quick "How-to" on setting wheel alignment since I was flipping my tie rod ends and I was going to have to re-align the wheels anyways.
Here's some of the tools you will need...
1.) Start with the ATV on a smooth and level surface, like a cement garage floor or driveway.
2.)Center up (Eyeball It) the handle bars and lock them into place with 2 ratchet straps, one on each side of handle bars. This of course prevents them from moving when your adjusting the tie-rods.
3.) Place two Jack Stands approximately 2 feet in front of the atv even with the outside edge of the two front wheels.
4.) Wrap a length of string all the way around the ATV and Jack Stands, Start and end at the rear hitch. Make sure the string is the same height from the ground on all 4 wheels. I like to attach a few elastic bands to both ends of the string before attaching the string to the hitch. This makes it easier to adjust the strings when moving the Jack Stands.
4.) Break lose the inner and outer tie-rod nuts. NOTE! Make sure you use 2 wrenches, one on the nut and one on the ball joint. Damage can occur by only using one wrench.
5.) Adjust the string by moving the Jack Stands in or out untill the string just touches both of the side surfaces of the rear tires on each side of the ATV. This will take some time to get it right but it needs to be done!
Check manufacturers wheel alignment specifications on your specific make and model before you adjust any components.
For this wheel alignment I'm using the Polaris Specs which seems to be a common setting.
Polaris - The recommended toe alignment is 1/8″ to 1/4″ toe out. This is a total amount, not per wheel.
6.) On the front rim, measure the distance from the string to the rim at the front and rear edges of the rim. The rear measurement should be 1/16″ - 1/8″ (.2 to .3 cm) more than the front measurement.
7.) If an adjustment is necessary, Turn the tie rod itself with a wrench or your hand in small increments. It doesn't take much to move the tire a long way, so go slow. Keep re-checking your measurement's until you have a 1/16″ - 1/8″ differance to the string.
6.) Once your satisfied that you have the correct "Toe Out" measurements you can tighten up the inner and outter tie-rod nuts on both sides. AGAIN...make sure to use 2 wrenches.
7.) Now take your ATV for a test drive to test your adjustments. If it still pulls one way or the other, just repeat the above steps to tweek the adjustments again utill your happy.
The whole process only takes about 15-20 min.
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Hi. I recently had to replace the diaphragm on my QM 500, so I decided to add a sigma 6 jet kit. I basically replaces the main jet with a 135 (was 130) and moved the clip on the needle down one space (as per their directions) towards the RICH direction. Now that I have it reinstalled it starts great, idles great but if you try and give it any throttle it sputters, pops and looses all power. With the choke on it will accept throttle.
This implies to me that I am running LEAN, which seems strange as I moved the needle towards rich and put a bigger jet in?
I have checked the rubber connections on either side of the carb, the carb has been out and it is CLEAN.
So any thoughts other then just "clean the carb".
have anyone brought brought a rear diffferential beraing kit for kvf300a4or kvff400 does the kit include bearing for the pinion or just for axle and neeedle bearing inside rear diff look at some of the kit but doesnt say if included bearing for pinion sent request to find out but no response needed to know before ordering because the pinion bearing is really the only one i need but cant find where u can just buy the pinion bearing without buying pinion as a set.:
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