Quantcast
Jump to content

  • Join Today, It's Simple and FREE!

    As a member, you can post in our forums, upload your photos and videos, use and contribute to our downloads, create your own member page, add your ATV events, and even start your own ATV club to host your own club forum and gallery.  Registration is fast and you can even login with social network accounts to sync your profiles and content.

xtreamclean

X-Tream Clean New Product Release - Chain Lube Gel Spray (CLG)

Recommended Posts

X-Tream Clean Products based in Charlotte, NC has introduced a new product called Chain Lube Gel Spray (CLG) to its line-up of quality cleaning solutions designed for the powersports industry. X-Tream Clean Chain Lube Gel Spray is unlike many of the chain lube products on the market today. We have combined the attributes of lubrication with lock-on technology into one product that will provide superior lubrication without sling. Chain Lube Gel Spray is a gel bodied product that goes on wet to penetrate all chain surfaces and quickly dries to a clear film. Our high performance PTFE gel lube will penetrate hard to reach areas and then expand to provide long lasting lubrication and rust prevention. Chain Lube Gel Spray remains pliable, will not harden or crack and will resist change due to mechanical working.

Tired of thick, messy, waxy, dirt and dust attracting chain lubes? Chain Lube Gel Spray is designed to dry to a non-tacky film helping to prevent dirt and dust from building up on your chain while still providing X-Tream lubrication. Product is also easily cleaned when you’re done riding unlike many waxy chain lubes that are a hassle to wash off. Cleaning our non-tacky, non-messy, non-waxy chain lube is X-Treamly easy. Chain Lube Gel Spray repels water and is an excellent rust and corrosion inhibitor. Chain Lube Gel Spray does not contain any CFC’s and is non-corrosive. Safe for all standard and o-ring type chains. California OTC VOC Compliant. Product is packaged in a 13 oz aerosol and retails for $9.95. More info www.mxwash.com.

Chain_Lube_Label.png

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites


Join the conversation

You can post now and register later. If you have an account, sign in now to post with your account.
Note: Your post will require moderator approval before it will be visible.

Guest
Reply to this topic...

×   Pasted as rich text.   Paste as plain text instead

  Only 75 emoji are allowed.

×   Your link has been automatically embedded.   Display as a link instead

×   Your previous content has been restored.   Clear editor

×   You cannot paste images directly. Upload or insert images from URL.


  • Similar Topics

    • By Frank Angerano
      I’ve decided to post  a thread on the process of cleaning a carburetor and what’s needed in order to do it properly.    There are some members that are new to this and are not very versed in doing so. I want to help and feel this might explain things better. I would hope this helps you along.     We all have our own little tricks of the trade so I’m sharing my process on how i break a carburetor down, clean, reassemble and adjust it to peak performance. I welcome any other members input on this topic.     List of things I use:   Safety glasses !!!   Rags.   I like to use old white Tee shirts or I buy and always have a few white pillow cases from the dollar store on hand. The cheap ones.     I like to use a frisbee turned      upside down like a bowl to keep the liquids to a minimum on spillage to the work bench.    A set of cleaning picks and brushes or a piece of bicycle break cable, I separate the strands and use them to clean out the tiny holes in the jets. (Pic attached)     A can of gum out  carburetor cleaner with the small red tube that attaches to the spray tip.  (Pic attached)   A can of compressed air, the kind used to clean out keyboards on computers. It also has the small red tube that attaches to the spray tip.  Or a compressor if you have one with a blow out tip.  (Pic attached)   A piece of clean hose that I can connect to the fuel line port on the carburetor to test the float operation. About 10 inches long.    A few Q tips.   The process: I like to put the pillow case down on the work bench and spread it out flat.   This really helps in being able to keep track of parts. Especially because it’s white.     I use the frisbee because it’s small enough to keep parts contained and durable enough to deal with the chemicals and any gas that will come out of the carburetor while opening it up.     It’s important to make sure you keep track of where everything came off and where the screws and parts all go back.     I like to start at the bottom and pull the bowl off. I immediately spray the inside of the bowl down with carb cleaner until its about half way full and set it aside.   Then I take the float out and check it for any fluid inside. If it’s a white color float you can hold a flashlight under it and see through it for any fluid inside.  If it black just shake it up and listen for fluid inside. No fluid inside is a good thing !    When the float comes out the fill valve needle will come with it. I take that needle and put it in the carburetor bowl that I filled with carburetor cleaner. This way it soaks for a bit. I do the same thing with the jets also once they are unscrewed and out toss them into the bowl to soak.    Take the air/fuel mixture screw out and soak that as well.  Side note: the air/fuel screw should have a screw, spring, washer and o ring.    After all the jets and parts are out and soaking I like to take the carburetor cleaner, use the small red tube and stick it in all the little holes/ports on the carburetor and spray.   I do this while it’s in the frisbee. This way there is no mess. I look to see where the spray pressure comes out on the other side of that port.   Once this is all done I start running my brushes and cleaning tips gently through all of the holes/ports and spraying it again with the carb cleaner.  After I feel I’ve seen a clear flow of fluid through all the openings I spray them with the can of air the exact way I did with the carburetor cleaner. This will blow out any left over junk that’s still in the carburetor.   Check the choke operation is working properly and spray it clean. Most choke devices are easily cleaned up so hit it and move on since they are mechanical and it’s just a matter of freeing them up, spraying with cleaner and lube.   There are multiple types of chokes but many of them for the most part are mechanically operated.    Once this is completed I wipe the entire carburetor down good and blow it clean and set aside.     I then start working on the jets one by one. Start by running the cleaning tips and brushes through all the tiny holes making sure they are all clean. Hit it with the carburetor cleaner and then air. I hold a flashlight to it when it’s done so I can make sure all of the holes are clear. I set all the jets aside on the work area.  Do the same thing for the float needle and air/fuel screw.    Now once this is all complete you can set the frisbee aside and start to reassemble the carburetor on the clean white surface.   I start by running a Q tip in where the fill needle sits into the carburetor. Some carbs have a small o ring that needs to be clean for proper seating of the fill needle.     Carefully reinstall the jets where they came from and do not strip or over tighten the jets and use the proper size screwdrivers when removing and reinstalling the jets.    Reinstall the air/fuel mixture screw and set it to what’s called out in the manual for that bike.    Install the float and fill needle assembly.    Now in order to test that float I like to take that piece of hose I mentioned and connect it to where the fuel line gets connected to the carburetor. I then turn the carburetor over to the upright position and blow into the hose. You should hear air coming out of the bottom of the carburetor. While blowing, lift the float up and the air should stop.  Let it go and the float should fall down opening the fill valve and you should hear air again.  The air should stop about 3/4 way up when raising that float while your blowing air into it.   If so then your good to go. If not make an adjustment    Set the carburetor down, take the bowl and empty it.   Clean it out and scrape/wipe any old junk inside and blow it out good.   There is a screw on the outside of the bottom of the bowl. Remove it and clean it out and reinstall.     Turn the carburetor over and reinstall the bowl. Tighten the screws in a crisscross pattern so the bowl seats evenly.     I like to put the hose on one more time and do a float test to make sure it’s opening and closing properly. All you have to do is blow into the hose and run the carburetor  upside down to see if the air stops.     Reinstall the carb and you should be good to go!    All pics of the items I use are attached below.   If you understand this great. If not ask away! Don’t be shy and don’t cut corners.   You will only wind up pulling the carburetor off of the bike for the third and forth time before you get it right.    The last thing to be discussed is dialing in the air/fuel screw when your finally put back together and running.  This is a relatively easy task.   Again I hope this helps!    Frank.     


    • By Tahj
      Do I need to remove the balancer driven gear to remove the timing chain.
      If so, how?
      Thanks

    • By Spiq Eddy
      I just helped my brother order a replacement pull-start/recoil start assembly for his 83-89(not sure witch year) Suzuki quad.  It did not come with the part that sits inside between the engine starter shaft and recoil start assembly,  that mounts to the engine and has teeth that catch the recoil start to turn over the engine.  I can't remember what its called and can't look the part to order. 

    • By Eric Fore
      New member here, just picked up a can am outlander. I know about some of the public parks nearby to ride. Just curious if anyone is in the area
    • By Coral Breding
      I loosened the allen bolts on the carrier and when I went to put my driver in the alot to pull back and tighten the chain, I noticed the holes were facing the front of the bike. I tried to slide a driver in and tighten the chain but the thing would not budge. I nearly ripped the tip off the driver in the slot. Any suggestions? 


  • Similar Tagged Content

    • By xtreamclean
      Charlotte, NC - July 12, 2011
      Press Release - X-Tream Clean Products announces its sponsorship with Sunshine State Quad Series
      X-Tream Clean Products announces its sponsorship today with Sunshine State Quad Series of Leesburg, FL. Established in 2006 SSQSA was formed for the ATV racers of Florida to begin a dedicated ATV series during the typical winter months. Beginning this November SSQSA is coming back and ready to set the ATV world on fire. The SSQSA will be hosting a four race series that will begin in November 2011 and end in January 2012. They will have a total of 19 classes for riders of all ages and experience levels from the youngest 50cc riders to the Pro and Pro-Am classes. X-Tream Clean Products looks forward to our relationship with SSQSA and all of the participants that will be attending races this upcoming season.
      Sunshine State Quad Series of Leesburg, FL is run by Brett Jones who has been involved in promoting ATV racing for over 15 years. More information can be found at Home Page.
      X-Tream Clean Products based in Charlotte, NC develops and markets cleaning products specifically designed for motocross bikes, street bikes, ATVs, UTVs, bicycles and all related off-road, on-road and on-water machines as well as developing tire preps for dirt and asphalt racing applications. More information can be found at Welcome to XTream Clean.
    • By xtreamclean
      Press Release - X-Tream Clean Products announces new retailer of powersports cleaning products with Amazon.com
      X-Tream Clean Products announces that the X-Tream Clean Products line of cleaning solutions that are designed for the powersports industry which includes motorcycles, ATVs, UTVs, boats, karts, bicycles, snow mobiles, RC vehicles and any off-road, on-road or on-water vehicle are now available on Amazon.com. The online retailer brings a vast customer base and national reach through its expansive e-commerce platform and will include the X-Tream Clean Products line to its existing motorcycle and ATV parts and accessories. This will give the X-Tream Clean brand of powersports cleaning solutions the ability to reach more customers who will be able to experience the convenience of Amazon’s FREE Super Saver Shipping and FREE Two-Day Shipping with Amazon Prime. More information about X-Tream Clean Products available through Amazon’s Powersports Store at www.amazon.com/motorcycle.
      X-Tream Clean based in Charlotte, NC develops and markets cleaning products specifically designed for the powersports industry for motorcycles, ATVs, UTVs, karts, RC vehicles, bicycles and all related off-road, on-road and on-water machines. X-Tream Clean Products also manufactures a line of tire prep solutions for all dirt and asphalt racing applications called X-Factor Tire Preps.
      For more information about products and general information please visit
      X-Tream Clean Products – www.mxwash.com
      Amazon Powersports Store – www.amazon.com/motorcycle
  • Recently Browsing   0 members

    No registered users viewing this page.


×
×
  • Create New...