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First of all sorry I have been MIA here for a while, been busy with school and work. I'll try and reply on some other threads asap, but posting this one because I just picked up a 2017 sportsman 570 before the new year and popped a boot on it going through a mud hole. The former owner had aftermarket axles on it to accommodate the 4in lift and idk what brand they are but they're skinny as heck and idk what boot to buy to rebuild with? It's the rear right lower boot (under the brake calp.). I'll post some pics when I can and sorry again I've missed yall on the forum!
I wanted to share an experience and a fix.
Headed out was following a pole line, was looking for a cross track that may take me to this speckle trout looking spot on a creek. All paths and semi paths... failed. Second objective was to reach a speckle trout lake that has been recently stocked... followed 1 trail to dead end, followed second trail to dead end.... while investigating options on foot and the quad idling it died.
It wouldn't start. eventually it did... and when it did … it was essentially a pinned idle. activating the throttle did seem to speed it up but it wouldn't knock out of the racing idle. couldn't put it in gear at that idle speed. got towed out.
when I first got the quad, I ran it off a trail and buried it pretty good in the soft snow... eventually winched out. It wouldn't start. eventually did and it was fast idling. not as fast as this last time. but still fast. it eventually seemed to settle and I got it in gear and by the time I was back to the truck was acting ok. chalked it up to the bike being at a bad angle in the snow.
My investigation last year lead to the throttle position sensor TPS. how to jumper the diag block to see the sensor position on the display,. I focused on this nearly sure it was a detuned sensor or broken sensor again this time.
I tore down the front plastic and stuck my head into the TPS area to see what I could see. What I found was that the throttle body assembly had actually come out of the mounting area (not sure what it is called). the ring clamp was loose I could move it easily. Hopeful, I tore down the air intake assembly above it (air filter...etc) removed a sensor clip and a hose.
I backed off the clamp some more and was able to reseat the throttle body assembly. put some blue lock tite on the clamp screw. When I was cleaning off the air intake assembly to ensure I dropped nothing down the intake, I noticed the underside of the air intake "box" also had a clamp. this screw was completely missing.
I went to the hardware store, bought a metric replacement (brought clamp with me), seated the assembly, settled the clamp blue lock tite that as well...
quad fired right up, idled normal, idled up without hesitation and dropped right back off. Cost of solution $3.87 CND for a pack of 5 metric screws. moral of my story was don't assume an idle issue is a throttle position sensor problem... there are a number of other factors including air pressure, which I believe was my issue.
By Shawn Hendershot
Need to change bearings on buddy's rear axle of a 1986 200x. We got the beast to run. But the rear bearings are shot. Got the c clip and nuts off but this spline axle thread nut is rusted solid. Any Ideas on how to it to budge? I would cut it off but Can't find a replacement any where. See Schematic Part number 7 below. I can't get it to slide off the axle. Tried heat and Pb Blaster nothing. won't budge. If anyone has a lead on where to find the part I would just cut it off.
Fixing up a 1998 King Quad 300. The rear brake was locked up, and the owner tried to force it free and snapped the axle.
I disconnected the brake cable, and tapped on the backing plate with a soft mallet to get the brake freed up. When I pulled off the brake drum a bunch of nasty rust water came out.
Once I had the axle out, I popped the boot off so I could see the inner u joint so I could phase/synchronize it with the outer. There was a flat steel disc floating around in the boot, looks like it used to be pressed into the end of the axle. Glad I got that out of there before it munched up the joint.
The book says the yokes should be aligned, I couldn't get mine aligned. They were always 7 degrees off from each other. A bit frustrating, maybe that's within the tolerance limits?
But I got it all back together and it runs great.
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I know this tooic has been addressed by many, I’ve looked through many forums and pages. I did not find anything like the problem i have.
I have a 2007 Kingquad 450. I have a new fully charged battery. When i turn the key, the dash flashes and seems to struggle before getting fully lite. We can hear a small relay near the computer clicking, i think it is the fuel pump relay. When i turn off the engine kill switch and press the starting button relays click and all the power shuts off, i turn the key off, engine kill switch then start over, power is there. Atv will start with pull start, but not elextricly. if i try to use my winch, all power cuts and engine dies.
Can anyone tell me what it may be? or has anyone fsced an issue like this before?
I have a 2018 Kodiak 450 EPS that just this past Sunday I ran through a bit of water.
After the puddle the belt was slipping, so I pulled over and drained the ultramatic housing and the slipping problem went away. This was all in L and everything seemed to work fine. Later when I got on a road, I put it in H, but it still rode like it was in low... i.e. I had to rev it up a lot just to get to 30mph.
When at home I pulled the ultramatic cover off to inspect, and it looked okay in there. Not much dirt, belt and everything are clean, but when I rev up the engine (with cage in place, of course), the belt doesn't get to the top of the clutch (maxes out about an inch or 1.5" from top of clutch, so maybe it is normal).. I put it back together but same thing... H seems like L still.
Do you think the clutch needs to be further dissected for cleaning, or could this be an issue with the gear selector?
By Steven Alter
I have a 2018 450 and the digital gause has started flashing on an off while driving. The backlit also goes on and off. It is worse when I hit the gas. The battery died a few weeks ago and I jumped it but its been fine until last night. Called the dealer and showed them a vid and they recommend replacing the gauge and its like 600 bucks. The machine has less than 100 hours on it. I would really hate to have to change it out. also the unit sometimes has trouble starting. Any ideas?
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