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Just picked an '03 Bayou 300 2WD. It runs ok, needs a little help though. Maybe someone can answer some questions for me.
1. The choke "off" position is the lever all the way right, correct?
2. The choke seems mechanically... funky. It has a little valve clamp around the rubber boot where it goes into the carb, seems kind of janky, I don't think there's typically a valve clamp on that part? The engine seems like its running really rich, smoking a bit, so I wonder if I can just completely remove the choke cable to see if that's part of the issue? But I don't fully understand the choke needle setup. Is "choked" when the needle is being pushed in, or pulled out? Like it I chopped the cable just outside the rubber boot by the carb, would I be permanently choking it or permanently unchoking it.
3. I've read that I can tweak the air/fuel screw and maybe fix the rich mix. Where is that even located, and if it's behind a cap that I have to drill out... where is that?
Thanks for any tips
By Ryan Geiler
New to the ATV world, picked up a solid used Kodiak 400. It appears the former owner did some sort of modification for a saddle bag or something along those lines--and I'd like to match it up and replace it. Not a big deal by any means but something I thought I would give a shot at finding.
does anyone recognize what kind of luggage/bag/cargo would go where those white tabs are he drilled through that fuel fender?
Let me start with I have about 30 years of ATC experience, but not much with stuff made after 1988. Some, but I'm mechanically inclined so it's all good. I"m rehabbing a 1997 Bayou 220 to send back into the wild and the mechanicals are now all good, just working on making the electrical system...electric. Right now, I have no power on the white wire as tested directly on the plug at the starter solenoid. I'm assuming that wire is supposed to be hot any time it's attached to a battery? The genius that had it before snipped a couple wires and inserted a fairly heavy push button for electric start bypassing the electrical system. I think i've corrected everything north of the solenoid but the white wire has me stumped. Is my assumption that this should always be hot with a hot battery correct? Does this indicate a broken circuit in the starter solenoid? Relay was also bad and wired incorrectly, but that's resolved and I can make the relay click bypassing the solenoid and connector, directly giving the white wire 12V. Thoughts?
Just joined up with premium membership. I wish to download a service manual or 2 (specifically the Polaris 110 EFI manual). I paid for the membership, but when I try to download it says it's not available to me. I know I haven't posted anything until now, but I thought the premium membership gave instant access to downloads. Not sure what I'm doing wrong?
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I had the local garage change the oil and filter in my machine and ever since they changed it there has been an oil leak. Taken it back several times and they can't figure out the problem.
Common misconception is that you need to return to the dealer for an exact
oil filter for your ATV. Aftermarket companies actually make filters for
the O.E.M. market. Why go to the dealer when you can get the exact filter you
need at your local auto parts store such as CARQUEST or NAPA. Wix corporation
makes ATV filters that you'll find in most of your popular autopart stores.
In most cases, you'll pay allot less!
WIX is a leader in the filter business. Check out this
ATV FILTER CATALOG. Remember, you can
right down the filter # and have it cross-referenced at your local autopart
store if they don't carry WIX, CARQUEST, or NAPA.
You can also click on the part # for the filter image.
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