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By Flipper Tiffany Roper Jones
All I have been through everything. Bought brand new.
Throttle safety switch
Cam and rockers
Fuel safety switch
Everything every forum has spoken of I've bought sealed airbox completely tight unplugged black wire on trans. I have literally done everything in the book.Checked oil today full of gas anyone no anything what might b wrong. Next I'm taking head off and making sure valves seat any ideas.
By Christian Smith
Recently bought a Polaris 425 Xpedition. Main issue is that the quad randomly misfires sometimes. ONLY does it at idle. Everything sounds good. What should I look for? Haven't checked the plug, seems a bit hard to get to, not sure. Headlights flicker at idle as well, is this a sign of a weak stator? Help?
By Ryann Racho
So Id say about 2 years back I bought a 2013 Polaris Sportsman 500 H.O. off of my uncle. It ran perfectly, nothing wrong at all. I usually go mudding with it or just ride trails with buddies. So as you would assume, the quad is quite dirty from sitting for a few weeks.
STUTTERING PROBLEM: I noticed one day out of nowhere that in high gear at 15-20 MPH, I was already maxed out at 4500-5000 RPM It would get to 15-20 mph, max out on rpms and start sputtering. It sounded like it was basically acting like it couldn’t go any faster than this.
IDLING PROBLEM: I was fucking with the carberator the other day maybe thinking that is causing my sputtering, and now my idle will shoot up to 2600 on start usually, then I will turn the throttle adjustment down to the normal 1400. The rpms with then fluctuate 10-30 rpms back and forth repeatedly, it will then run for about another 30-60 seconds and the RPMs will slowly drop to about 900-1000 RPM and stall out. I replaced the carburetor and everything seems to be working perfect on that, no leaks and what not but it’s still acting strange. Also, I’ve noticed that when looking into the Electronic Throttle Control that two plates that aren’t supposed to touch have to be WAY past touching to even try to fire up. Even when set at a wide open throttle like that, I still have to give it some throttle to get it to fire up.
Here is what I have done so far:
Checked the belt and clutch
Changed out spark plug (Last one was covered in carbon)
Cleaned the intake and air box
Replaced the carburetor
Replaced the inline fuel filter
Checked that all lines on carburetor are connected into the right spots
Checked If intake boot was cracked (Not from what I can see)
Unhooked and reattached new carburetor (About 4-5 times)
Cleaned battery terminals and battery off
Shut on and off Gas Line Cutoff Valve
My next thoughts are that maybe the TPS is fucked up or maybe the Spark Arrestor is plugged with mud. I was thinking tomorrow to purge the exhaust and also check the ohms output on the TPS.
ANY HELP IS GREATLY APPRECIATED. I HAVE BEEN BATTLING THIS FOR WEEK AND REALLY WANT TO GO RIDING. THANK YOU!
I have an Outlaw 110 that will struggle to turn the engine over. Jump starting doesn't help other than the battery will drain LONG before the bike eventually starts, so is required. If you keep messing with it long enough it will eventually magically begin to crank fine and sometimes finally start. Once we finally get the bike to start and warm it up thoroughly, it will turn over and start just fine the rest of the day like nothing ever happened... next day it won't turn over again. Internet research has found lots of people saying they replaced starters, starter clutch, wiring, etc. but with only about 50/50 success rate for their particular problems... and I never found anybody describing a problem like mine, so I'm looking for advice/experience. Would rather not just start blindly throwing parts at it. Does anybody have any thoughts/ideas?
just bought a 2000 polaris 325. was told i vould pull start and ride but needed new battery for electric start. so bought new bat and charged it but nothing. while spraying with a hose after a ride it all came on. neutral light cooling fan and then quit. checked those things in the black bag and power at both ends. starter will roll when i jump solenoid. power to the ignition switch jumped that but still nothing. maybe switch for headlight and starter? NEED HELP PLEASE.
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My boot on the drive shaft came off this weekend. When I tried to put it back on it appeared to be about 2" too large. Any explanations????
Also when the boot cam off, there was oil in the boot. Is this normal???
Thanks for your help.
Took my wolvy for her first trail ride past weekend. Got home and cleaned all the mud and dirt off. Went to take a spin around the neighborhood and started having issues.
When you are about 1/2 to 3/4 throttle the RPMs will sudden spike way up with little difference in power to the machine. Once you shift to the next gear it will increase power/rpm consistently then same thing happens and you get a sudden RPM spike. It also seems to recreate the problem if you are low in the gear and try to punch it...High rpm with no power increase. If you shift gears and gradually increase throttle she will increase power and RPMs consistently but if you shift and are more than 1/2 throttle it will increase power and RPMs fine until you get about 1/2 to 3/4 way through the gear then you get the same RPM spike...
Hope I am explaining this clearly. My truck did a similar thing once and it turned out to be a whole new tranny...hope this is a different issue. Thanks for your help guys and gals.
Title says it all. When I researched part it shows it does not exist anymore, discontinued. What can I do to stop the leak? Is there somewhere else I should be looking for part? The leak is coming from where shifter goes through seal, not around outside of seal between case and seal.
I just picked up a Big Bear 350 4x4, I was told it was a 1994 model. It runs and drives, but needs a bunch of work (I picked it up for a winter project). Anyhow, the front drive shaft is so loose that it falls right out of the splined u joint. The splines aren't worn out, I'll try to get a picture later on but it seems like the drive shaft is too short. It doesn't look broken or extremely worn, but when the pushed all the way into the rear u joint (by the engine) the front of the shaft is not even making connection with the front U joint and the shaft falls out of the front U joint. I can't figure out why it would be like that, the U joints don't look broken or worn (the splines look OK). The spring is still on the shaft up by the front U joint, but it's like the spring is pushing the shaft right out of the joint. Is there supposed to be something keeping the shaft from sliding too far into the rear joint?
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