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Well im at it again, took about an hour drive Saturday and made a deal on this old honda.
Might be restorable. Tires pretty dry rotted, mastercylinder broken glass and probably full of water.
Handed me the carb he rebuilt (oh no) He said ran about 6 months ago but when we pushed out of his
field there was a tree growning through it. See pic. Missing some parts, also missing the intake. Motor is not
locked up, Has piece of plastic crammed in the head since no carb there for months. Brake cables bad, etc. Thats
part of the fun. Im sure I will be posting some questions later for you all. Stay tuned Az.
By Dra O
I likely just kissed $200 goodbye buying a Honda 250 this AM from Craiglist. We'll see.
- VIN number is off the front frame; one VIN site calls it a 2008 Honda 250 TRX - this baby ain't a 2008; other VIN sites list the VIN as invalid; might be that the owner (a shady dude from a shadier side of my home town) put a 2008 front end on it? No idea.
- a HUGE hint (hint #1) would've been that there's no key to start the machine - gotta use a screwdriver. I'll likely be visited by police sometime in the near future.
- owner acquired from another man - owner showed me video of him riding it this summer on a major interstate while very drunk (hint #2) - the machine sounded good in the video
- no front headlight; owner said machine has new carb - looks Chinese - he didn't have original carb; air intake box is wide open - no long plastic connection sleeve leading into air box like on my 99 king quad; no visible oil leaks; oil is dark; air filter clean; decent plastic; no front right brake apparatus; left brake handle very loose and rear brake doesn't work
- battery at this point is good; manipulate the ignition switch w/ screw driver and the green neutral light shines (this has since stopped working)
- it's a kick start machine: when I kicked it down (hint #3), the compression sounded normal, almost "tight" but at the end of the cycle, there was some awful grinding noise coming from what sounded like either inside the engine or the starter area; I let it settle, kicked it again, same noise heard at the end of cycle; owner said it likely needs a new starter - I only hope it's this simple
pictures attached - the throttle cable / zip tie pic is my favorite - but it works! it was CRAZY dirty prior to pressure washing - and the water in air box is likely secondary to the power wash - no water was in it when purchased
gotta few things to complete on the king quad - will be changing motor/gear oil in honda and getting new oil filter over time - talk soon - hope y'all had a great Christmas
By Dwight Williams
Ok, so I bought this scream of a deal the other day - a 94 King Quad 300 for $40.00. It's been sitting outside with no carburetor on it for about a year. Its rusty, missing some parts, wiring is all cut up and spliced etc. No seat, no racks but the plastic is all there minus the headlight housing. Anyway, who can pass up a $40.00 quad right? I get it home and looked at the sight glass for oil level, it's about 1/2 oil and 1/2 water. I drain it, refill it and turn the motor by hand (recoil starter is missing) and it turns over just fine. I worked on the wiring for about an hour and got it to turn over with the electric starter and got enough of it sorted out to get a spark. Did a quick compression test, 70 lbs. Wet test bumped it up to 90. Ok, so rings and cylinder washed out with water for a year, not too surprised. I thought 'what the hell' and sprayed some starting fluid in it and it ran for about 2 seconds - enough to show it's got life. Since then the compression has gotten worse, I can't get enough pressure to activate the carb diaphragm, therefore no fuel pump either. The compression is now around 60.
Anyway, my question is....is it worth it to try to get this thing going? I tore the top end down today and the cam and one of the rockers is pretty worn. I figured a top end job would be about $100 or so, depending on the condition of the cylinder but I'll probably have to put a cam and rockers in it as well. Doing some research on ebay I figure I'll have to spend about $500-$700 to make the whole machine right again. Much less just to make it run and use as-is but I won't really like it until it's right. I don't mind doing the work, I actually enjoy it but I'm concerned about what all that water did to the rest of the internals, I can't really test it all out until I can make it run.
I know it's a basket case but I'm not into it much at all, even if I do the top end and find something else wrong I'm still not out much. I'm leaning toward ordering the top end parts and going from there unless you can convince me otherwise - any way to check the rest of the internals without tearing it down? I plan on flushing the oil cooler before I do another oil change, I've drained it twice now and it gets milky almost immediately just turning the starter - I suspect the oil cooler is polluted badly.
I'll get some pictures today if anyone want to see them.
By Dwight Williams
I have a 99 Kodiak 400 4X4 that I picked up for $300. The previous owner had modified the foot shifter by welding a piece of rebar to it so he could hand shift while plowing. As you can imagine, the allows for much more torque on the shifter than it was designed to have, and he broke the stopper off of the the shift mechanism. No big deal, I ordered the part and put it back together, went through the carburetor and off we go, it runs pretty good.
The first thing I noticed is that when I put the shifter all the way down it goes into reverse, I'm supposed to twist a knob to get it to reverse but this seems to be disabled. Also, once in reverse, it's a bugger to get back out. I have to hold the shifter up, then quickly back down and up again to get it to come out. All forward gears work fine, clutch is tight, no problems.
The reverse cable and lever are in tact and seem to move freely.
My question is this: What does one normally have to do to get this thing into reverse? I assume put it in neutral, twist the knob, kick the shifter down. Does the brake need to be applied? I'm not sure what's going on here, I suspect it's been 'modified' as it goes into reverse without the proper precautions, just not sure if the mods were external on internal.
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By Dana Hudson
Hey everyone, hoping to get some help here... my kids 03 KTF 50 Quad has always ran great... they were riding it a couple of hours a few days ago and it died a couple of times (not normal) but started right back up. A few days later my 5 year old wanted to take it for a spin so I started it (2 pulls) and he took off.. he made it a couple hundred yards and it died and we havnt been able to start it since. I have new gas, good spark and 120 psi compression.. it will not start with starter fluid in the intake or even in the cylinder.. the fuel bowl has fuel at the carb... what am I missing? It’s driving me crazy!!
So i was riding the other day and my quad randomly shut off. It started back up and ran completely fine for a little while and then it started idling terribly.
I cleaned the carb and changed all the jets and everything except the float due to the rebuild kit not coming with one and it actually runs worse then it did before.
It will run and idle decent now but when I give it gas it dies.
Does anybody know what could be wrong?
I also changed the spark plug and air filter along with the oil and oil filter.
i have a 2000 suzuki king quad lt-f300f that i picked up as a project bike. it didnt run well when it was parked outside 5 years ago. it cranked after putting fresh gas - but would not run below half throttle, i took apart the carb, cleaned debris, and re-assembled. i suspect that the pilot needle is sheared off - it never protrudes into the throttle body through the pinhole. now to get the bike to ALMOST idle, the throttle idle adjustment knob is all the way up/in. the pilot needle is turned almost all the way in/up (if i understand correct, it should nominally be out 2 1/4 turns or so). and like i said, it will ALMOST idle. floods easily, rides rough.
wanted to hear from those more experienced than me with suzukis - and im self-taught atv repair, so dont laugh too hard if my verbiage/part names is way off.
facing the driver's side of the bike [US] there are three hoses on this side of the carb. without a service manual or way of knowing what was messed up before i got it, i think i have them right: front hose as a vacuum to the petcock, middle hose as vacuum to the fuel pump, rear hose as fuel line from the fuel pump. running the bike in prime position results in flooding even while riding. with all hoses disconnected from the carb, fuel slowly drips from the vacuum line connected to the petcock.
so just my speculation is that the diaphragm in the petcock is split, and the pilot needle is broke off - causing my inability to not quite idle and the rough ride. this suzuki is hoses and cables everywhere compared to the honda ranchers and yamaha warriors i am used to. I would like to have a plan rather than: replace everything at once.
is my speculation on the right track, or could something else be at play? say, if the compression was non-existent, would that cause non-idling? i am all ears, look forward to the input.
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