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got that 220 I'm 'servicing'.......... well it turned into a guts and oil job.... I cleaned the carb and it wont idle cold, but idles too fast when warm. also misfires and burns rich cold (white smoke out of the exhaust) I'm going to order a new carb since the old one is leaking and beat up (some one was tinkering) I'm wondering about the valve clearance and timing...? Maybe a factor? What should the clearance be on the valves? How should I check the timing on this bike? (this is a mid 90s bayou 220 2x4)
By Frank Angerano
So i took a road trip today to look at a Suzuki Eiger! 2006 in perfect condition other then the fact it starts for 30 seconds and shuts down.
Its been sitting for about a year in a shed.
It has a plow and a winch included!!!
Got it for a really good price and all looks good so far.
By Dra O
posted a while back - it was running at one point - I have all the plastic shroud off - it's down to frame and engine now
-fuel pump: when line from petcock is attached, no fuel comes out other side to carb; the line to the carb is open (can blow through it); I thought when I cranked engine that the pump would spit out fuel on other side but it does not; I removed fuel pump and opened it up - diaphragm looks good - but internal areas had lotsa calcification build up - I cleaned this out and dried it good - the clear plastic pieces (?diaphragms) aren't broken - the spring w/ steel ball on end moves freely; am putting it back on tomorrow; but can anyone answer about the pump? isn't it supposed to pump fuel through it... to other side... to carb? puzzling
-along with fuel pump: I replaced petcock 3 weeks ago (gas tank had rusty fuel in bottom - cleaned it out prior to new petcock); when I turn petcock arrow NOT to on or reserve, fuel comes out of line; when I turn it to on or reserve, fuel doesn't come out; puzzling
-I don't know what's on back of fuel pump - it's a valve that has a hose coming out of it - looks like it goes to engine/carb - I haven't traced this out yet - what is it?
-can squirt gas on air filter and engine will run for 2-3 seconds then stop - fuel in top of carb (under diaphragm) does same
-it likely needs carb rebuild - will get to this - but something isn't allowing fuel to get from fuel pump to carb
-I THINK it has a mikuni model x carb - diaphragm is ID 26mm OD 68mm - hard to find inexpensive diaphragm, I guess because it's a model x
-last thing - I replaced solenoid due to old one clicking; I HAVE to be charging the battery or it won't start/turn over - battery just goes dead; but if charging, it'll turn over nicely; i'm guessing it's a bad battery
-any help appreciated - I've never owned an ATV before - inherited this beast from grandparent in-law
Neighbor dropped off his 2010 Ranger 400 HO. Said it was missing and backfiring. I replaced the plug as it was carboned up (kids use the side x side for chores and it is only idled around yard) Unit ran great, sent back home and it ran great for about 5 hours of run time and then it wouldn't start. He brought it back and I changed the plug again and it would start but would not run great. Pull plug and it was really wet. I suspect the carb needs cleaning and that is the direction I plan on going unless someone else knows anything about these units. ( I have never worked on one of these).
If you know of something else I should check let me know.
Also I am looking for a service manual for this unit.
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I know this tooic has been addressed by many, I’ve looked through many forums and pages. I did not find anything like the problem i have.
I have a 2007 Kingquad 450. I have a new fully charged battery. When i turn the key, the dash flashes and seems to struggle before getting fully lite. We can hear a small relay near the computer clicking, i think it is the fuel pump relay. When i turn off the engine kill switch and press the starting button relays click and all the power shuts off, i turn the key off, engine kill switch then start over, power is there. Atv will start with pull start, but not elextricly. if i try to use my winch, all power cuts and engine dies.
Can anyone tell me what it may be? or has anyone fsced an issue like this before?
I have a 2018 Kodiak 450 EPS that just this past Sunday I ran through a bit of water.
After the puddle the belt was slipping, so I pulled over and drained the ultramatic housing and the slipping problem went away. This was all in L and everything seemed to work fine. Later when I got on a road, I put it in H, but it still rode like it was in low... i.e. I had to rev it up a lot just to get to 30mph.
When at home I pulled the ultramatic cover off to inspect, and it looked okay in there. Not much dirt, belt and everything are clean, but when I rev up the engine (with cage in place, of course), the belt doesn't get to the top of the clutch (maxes out about an inch or 1.5" from top of clutch, so maybe it is normal).. I put it back together but same thing... H seems like L still.
Do you think the clutch needs to be further dissected for cleaning, or could this be an issue with the gear selector?
By Steven Alter
I have a 2018 450 and the digital gause has started flashing on an off while driving. The backlit also goes on and off. It is worse when I hit the gas. The battery died a few weeks ago and I jumped it but its been fine until last night. Called the dealer and showed them a vid and they recommend replacing the gauge and its like 600 bucks. The machine has less than 100 hours on it. I would really hate to have to change it out. also the unit sometimes has trouble starting. Any ideas?
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