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By Steven Urban
First time using this forum. Owned a Kawasaki dirt bike once, had no issues. But I picked up this 4 wheeler at an auction. They stated it ran, but only needed a battery. Well I do not believe that was all true.
Some pictures are attached. Not sure why, but the whole air filter stuff was removed. They had some small thing inserted as a make shift air filter.
I purchased a battery to try this all out. Waiting to return it and get the proper size, as it was too big for the battery box. But here is my issue I had while the battery was connected.
1 - The lights on the steering column did not come on. Not sure if they work or not.
2 - The starter solenoid seems to be bad. I have a new one on order.
3 - In the pick, there is another rusted part. Not sure what that part is or what it is used for.
4 - What is the 12v rectifier? square bodied part.
So when I hooked the battery up. Pushing the start button did nothing. Pulling the cord to try and pull start, it turned, but would never fire. I have put in a new spark plug as well, it looked worn out. With electric start, I crossed over the posts on the start solenoid, it turned over, but would never fire and start.
I have read a few other threads and it stated something about needed the neutral light on. SOmething about a kill switch.
Any help would be appreciated.
Doeas any have the actual electrical diagram for the distirbution block for this atv > I had a few wire not worky worky so needed to replace ends plus dam thiing is dirty so needs to clean all the contacts ..
Want to make shure I get eveything back in right place .... I have the repair manual but as we know it no help really .....
I'm working on my brothers' 2002 Suzuki Vinson 500 . It sat for a few years before I got into it. I'm concentrating on the carb - I replaced orings, needle, etc. and soaked jets, bowl and anything that I could get off the carb that the solution wouldn't eat. I also removed the tank and flushed it with hot water - it's clean. The gas cap innards rusted away and the tank had a lot of rust and water in it before I cleaned it. I replaced the gas cap and installed a new fuel valve because the screens were broken in the old one. The bike will run but spits and sputters and backfires. If you "open it up" it falls on its face and stalls - but starts right up. Here is a link to an exploded view of the carb: Ohio Honda Yamaha Motorcycle ATV Dealer - J & J Motors - Kawasaki Suzuki Scooter Utility vehicle, parts, accessories, apparel
Can anyone point me in the direction of the problem? It may still be a "clean carb parts issue" . My problem is that the parts list doesn't identify the parts to a degree that I understand. If you said" look at the pilot jet", I'm not sure which jet that would be....See what I mean? It'll run very good if I remove the air filter and cover the opening with my hand and part my fingers a little for the air to get in. Any help is greatly appreciated.
Thanks in advance, Jim
By Matt John
I have a 2017 Polaris Sportsman 570 EFI. Yesterday, I start the machine and it says low power (10.6-10.8). This machine is on its second battery. This is a new AGM battery with 50cca more than stock.
Should I look at the regulator or stator?
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It´s one debate that doesn´t seem to be going anywhere fast. If you´re buying a brand new winch like the Superwinch Terra 45 or maybe it is just time to replace your old cable. Which way do you go: steel or synthetic? Let´s take a look at the pros and cons so you can decide once and for all which is better for YOU.
Life of the Cable
After an extended period of time depending on use, a steel cable can start to crimp, get rust spots or develop frayed strands of steel cable which can give you nasty cuts and also decrease the reliability of the cable. In the short term, the steel cable can take a lot more abuse than the synthetic variety. However, synthetic cables can have a much longer life. That is of course only if it is taken care of and carefully prevented from fraying on the edges. Fraying edges on a synthetic cable is the beginning of the end for this more costly type of cable. The more affordable steel cables might be more attractive for the rugged wincher who doesn't mind replacing a steel cable at the first signs of wear.
Potential and Kinetic Energy
You don´t need to be a science major to recognize the danger of a cable under extreme tension. Whether it is due to overbearing the cable or a replacement cable is well overdue, it can be a potentially very dangerous situation. In terms of this, Synthetic is generally the winner as it doesn´t become a dangerous projectile. It is also easier on the hands and actually provides more pull per inch. Bear in mind however, that your maximum pulling power is still limited by the winch you select. It´s downside is that if it is in contact with a sharp edge, it has the possibility of slicing or fraying the edges, which is very unlikely with a steel cable.
Some users of synthetic cable have made complaints about UV damage causing weakness that leads to a decrease in strength. Newer synthetic lines are being manufactured UV resistant, and a winch cover is also a cheap solution to this problem.
About 95% of new winches are being shipped by their companies with standard steel winch cables. This can be taken as just because they are the cheaper option of the two for them to make the most profit, or a signal that it is still the best choice of cable.
As I mentioned before, Synthetic does provide you with more pounds per inch. Which means more pulling power for less cable. Even though pulling power is generally determined by the winch, check out this article with tips for both types of cables on how to double your pulling power.
Synthetic is the latest and more expensive cousin, that still has a few kinks to iron out before it really replaces steel cables completely. Steel has been proven in every condition. It is tried and tested and cheaper. For reliability and cost, definitely your cable of choice.
Sam is an ATV enthusiast and updates his adventure website with outdoor tips and articles, including a review on the Superwinch Terra 45 (1145220)
This is my first post and I was wondering if there is anyone who can help me solve a problem I have with my Yamaha Kodiak 400 4x4 Fitted with a Mikuni Carburetor . The year of the quad is around 1998, the reason I am not sure of the date is, there wasn't any paperwork and no details on the frame either.
The quad had a bad leak from the carb overflow which indicated that the float needle valve was blocked or passing so I replaced this and put everything back together. The quad ran really well until I took it onto some rough ground to have a ride around, a few hours later the engine started to run really rough as if the engine was flooding. I have removed the carb again and cleaned the needle valve out and the whole of the carb just in case there where any dirt behind it. Engine now runs fine again but fuel has started to run out the carb overflow again.
I have tried everything to try and stop the fuel leaking out the overflow but its still happening. My last thoughts where to adjust the float level and its still happening.
Has anyone got any thoughts on the problem or could suggest whats causing the fuel leaking out the overflow.
Thanks for reading
Hello, well back to where I was last year with this carb. Took my 250 to the mountains for the first time this year and blue smoke, too much gas again. I can't believe that this carb gives me this much trouble. Seems like the choke is stuck but the cable moves freely. Anyone else ever experience this issue? Do you think a new choke cable would maybe resolve this?http://www.quadcrazy.com/atvforum/images/smilies/arghh.gif
OK it was the choke. Put on all new cable and plunger and she is running 100% again. So now the question is, is the carb getting worn out where the plunger needle goes in the small hole and when I use the choke the needle end doesn't get lined back up with the hole?? We'll see how it runs and now that I know what the issue is I can always pull the choke plunger out and reinstall if I start having this issue again.
i was wondering if i could get some help. i been trying to locate where the fuel and air adjustment screws are located on my 95 kodiak 400. i think i found the fuel screw.. i know where the throttle adjuster is but i cant find the air screw. or is there an air adjustment on these carbs?
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