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By Eddie Rahm
Hey fellas...I'm trying to install the rear left axle..there's a bolt running through the end of the axle that goes in the hole where you slide the axle in...I'm having a hard time getting the bolt started on the threads..I was hoping to start it with my fingers and than finish it with an open ended wrench...its very hard to do because it's such a tight spot..has anyone ever done this job before ? Any help would really be appreciated..thanks Ed
I have a 2004 Polaris Trail Boss 330 and I want to eventually fix it up if possible, but the thing is the transmission or Gearbox that allows you to shift into forward and reverse and such isn't connect to the engine at all, it isn't even bolted into the frame. Anyways the Secondary Driven clutch is missing. The ignition was busted so I switched it out and tried to hook up power to it and the lights wouldn't light up and it wouldn't try to let me start it with the electric starter.
So I bridged the connectors on the starter solenoid and it cranks the motor. I was wondering if anyone knew why the dash lights don't work or any of the buttons. I did find a cable disconnected I have a picture of maybe someone can tell me what it's supposed to be connected to. It has 3 wires going to the connect Green Purple Red. I'll enclose a picture of it and where it is connected on the wiring harness.
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It´s one debate that doesn´t seem to be going anywhere fast. If you´re buying a brand new winch like the Superwinch Terra 45 or maybe it is just time to replace your old cable. Which way do you go: steel or synthetic? Let´s take a look at the pros and cons so you can decide once and for all which is better for YOU.
Life of the Cable
After an extended period of time depending on use, a steel cable can start to crimp, get rust spots or develop frayed strands of steel cable which can give you nasty cuts and also decrease the reliability of the cable. In the short term, the steel cable can take a lot more abuse than the synthetic variety. However, synthetic cables can have a much longer life. That is of course only if it is taken care of and carefully prevented from fraying on the edges. Fraying edges on a synthetic cable is the beginning of the end for this more costly type of cable. The more affordable steel cables might be more attractive for the rugged wincher who doesn't mind replacing a steel cable at the first signs of wear.
Potential and Kinetic Energy
You don´t need to be a science major to recognize the danger of a cable under extreme tension. Whether it is due to overbearing the cable or a replacement cable is well overdue, it can be a potentially very dangerous situation. In terms of this, Synthetic is generally the winner as it doesn´t become a dangerous projectile. It is also easier on the hands and actually provides more pull per inch. Bear in mind however, that your maximum pulling power is still limited by the winch you select. It´s downside is that if it is in contact with a sharp edge, it has the possibility of slicing or fraying the edges, which is very unlikely with a steel cable.
Some users of synthetic cable have made complaints about UV damage causing weakness that leads to a decrease in strength. Newer synthetic lines are being manufactured UV resistant, and a winch cover is also a cheap solution to this problem.
About 95% of new winches are being shipped by their companies with standard steel winch cables. This can be taken as just because they are the cheaper option of the two for them to make the most profit, or a signal that it is still the best choice of cable.
As I mentioned before, Synthetic does provide you with more pounds per inch. Which means more pulling power for less cable. Even though pulling power is generally determined by the winch, check out this article with tips for both types of cables on how to double your pulling power.
Synthetic is the latest and more expensive cousin, that still has a few kinks to iron out before it really replaces steel cables completely. Steel has been proven in every condition. It is tried and tested and cheaper. For reliability and cost, definitely your cable of choice.
Sam is an ATV enthusiast and updates his adventure website with outdoor tips and articles, including a review on the Superwinch Terra 45 (1145220)
This is my first post and I was wondering if there is anyone who can help me solve a problem I have with my Yamaha Kodiak 400 4x4 Fitted with a Mikuni Carburetor . The year of the quad is around 1998, the reason I am not sure of the date is, there wasn't any paperwork and no details on the frame either.
The quad had a bad leak from the carb overflow which indicated that the float needle valve was blocked or passing so I replaced this and put everything back together. The quad ran really well until I took it onto some rough ground to have a ride around, a few hours later the engine started to run really rough as if the engine was flooding. I have removed the carb again and cleaned the needle valve out and the whole of the carb just in case there where any dirt behind it. Engine now runs fine again but fuel has started to run out the carb overflow again.
I have tried everything to try and stop the fuel leaking out the overflow but its still happening. My last thoughts where to adjust the float level and its still happening.
Has anyone got any thoughts on the problem or could suggest whats causing the fuel leaking out the overflow.
Thanks for reading
Hello, well back to where I was last year with this carb. Took my 250 to the mountains for the first time this year and blue smoke, too much gas again. I can't believe that this carb gives me this much trouble. Seems like the choke is stuck but the cable moves freely. Anyone else ever experience this issue? Do you think a new choke cable would maybe resolve this?http://www.quadcrazy.com/atvforum/images/smilies/arghh.gif
OK it was the choke. Put on all new cable and plunger and she is running 100% again. So now the question is, is the carb getting worn out where the plunger needle goes in the small hole and when I use the choke the needle end doesn't get lined back up with the hole?? We'll see how it runs and now that I know what the issue is I can always pull the choke plunger out and reinstall if I start having this issue again.
i was wondering if i could get some help. i been trying to locate where the fuel and air adjustment screws are located on my 95 kodiak 400. i think i found the fuel screw.. i know where the throttle adjuster is but i cant find the air screw. or is there an air adjustment on these carbs?
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