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By George Henry
I just watched this video I made ten years ago. It made me laugh. I was riding a 1985 Honda ATC 200X. It's hard to film yourself so I had to position the camera to film me. May flies out th wazoo, but I HAD to ride. I hope you get a laugh.
Here is the link:
I did a total restoration on a 2003 Yamaha Raptor 80. Rebuilt the engine and tranny.. Started it up today and it runs great. Took it for a ride and the transmission worked perfectly. Adjusted the carb a little more and went for another ride. It ran awesome, pulled into the workshop shifted into neutral ( Neutral light came on) and shut off the bike. went to roll it and noticed she would not roll. Turned on the key and neutral light was on... After some troubleshooting I found that she is in first gear with the neutral light on and will not shift into neutral... It seems to up shift fine into 2nd and 3rd and then back down to 1st. I am hoping somebody can shed some light on what is happening... Thanks for any help...
I started this project a while ago.. I have decided to make one thread I can continuously update..
So , here we go. I got this Raptor 80 in really bad condition.. Rear end frozen, Engine toast, tires dry rotted, tons of rust..etc.. They admitted they beat on it very hard.
Since they do not make these with a drive shaft anymore I decided to restore it from top to bottom..
These are photos of when I got it home.
Next up, the tear down..
First, I needed to tear it down and determine if the rear end was still good... As we all know... That is where it would be cost prohibitive to restore if it is trashed..
Got it completely stripped down and I lucked out... The rear Drum brake was caked solid inside with dried mud. That was causing the rear end to lock up. Took off the rear brakes and the rear end spun perfectly smooth.
Once I got it all stripped apart I needed to take the finish off all the parts. I am going to be powder coating the frame and many parts.. Once the finish is off each part it will need to be sandblasted to white metal .. The guy I use for powder coating gives me a hefty discount if I bring the parts to him ready to go.
You could just sand blast, but that would take a long time to get the finish off. First I used Aircraft Paint Remover.. That stuff is pretty toxic Goggles and Resperator are required. That quickly gets you down to the metal... Then you can sand blast to white metal pretty quickly...
I had another thread I had started about a problem with the tear down... It has some great info .... here is the link... It is about removing the frame bushings. ....
I picked up a 2017 Polaris Sportsman 850. The previous owner rarely rode it and it only had 53 miles on it (10 hours). I believe the Polaris break in period is something like 250 miles / 50 hours or something like that at which point they suggest doing the first oil and fluid change. My question is should I do it sooner than that? I believe this was manufactured in fall of 2016 so that means the fluids in there are 3 years old. Maybe that isnt a big deal and it is still fine to wait until 50 hours, but just wanted to check
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